Skip to main content

Full text of "Sailing Directions for Magellan Strait, and Channels Leading to the Gulf of ..."

See other formats 


Google 



This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project 

to make the world's books discoverable online. 

It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject 

to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books 

are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover. 

Marks, notations and other maiginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the 

publisher to a library and finally to you. 

Usage guidelines 

Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the 
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing tliis resource, we liave taken steps to 
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying. 
We also ask that you: 

+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for 
personal, non-commercial purposes. 

+ Refrain fivm automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine 
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the 
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help. 

+ Maintain attributionTht GoogXt "watermark" you see on each file is essential for in forming people about this project and helping them find 
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it. 

+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just 
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other 
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of 
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner 
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liabili^ can be quite severe. 

About Google Book Search 

Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers 
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web 

at |http: //books .google .com/I 



KAKU 



^ 



Gre^Y Ot^rV^s^V, 



SAILING DIRECTIONS 



FOR 



MAGELLAN STRAIT, AOT) CHAOTELS LEADING 



rw 



TO THE GULP OF PENAS. 



BT 



CAPTAIN RICHARD C. MAYNE, R.N., C.B. 



PUBLI8HBD BT OBDBB OF THB LOBDS COlOilSSIOirBBS 07 THB ADXIBALTT 



LONDON: 

PRINTED FOR THE HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE, ADMIRALTr ; 

A3XD SOLD BT 

J. D. POTTER, Agent for the AdiAvratty Charts, 
31 POULTRY, AND 11 KING STREET, TOWER HILL. 

187L 



Price Two Shillings and Sixpence. 

D' 



'}?/, 



\ 

\ 



r* 



THE NEW ■.?:•• \- 

PUBLIC l;l:\-.!.v 
338741 

ASTCR. LuHOX Ti ) 

TILDE N F->.b All.-. ^. 
1 CM .. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



The following information relative to the navigation of Magellan 
strait^ and the channels leading northward from the west end of the 
strait to the gulf of Peiias, is by Captain Bichard C. Mayne, 
B.N.^ C.B.3 under whose direction Magellan strait and the various 
channels referred to, were surveyed In H«M.S. Nassau^ 1866-69. 

a H. R. 



Hydrograpliic Office, Admiralty, London. 
Jane 1871. 



26634. a 2 



ADDENDA. 



Infoemation has beien communicated by Vice-Admiral Sir B. J. 
Suliyan, K.C.B., that a Mission station has been established on the north 
shore of Beagle channel, Tierra del Fuego, in the cov e of a small peninsula 
N. by E. from the Murray narrows or northern entrance to Ponsonby 
sound, and which may be used as a place of refuge and relief to mariners 
shipwrecked in the vicinity of Cape Horn. ^ 

If a ship is abandoned to the westward of Cape Horn, the most direct 
course for boats is, to pass eastward of False Cape Horn and through 
Ponsonby sound, using Packsaddle island (where it is considered the 
natives are to be trusted) for a stopping place, but avoiding communication 
with natives in Ponsonby sound until near the north part of it, as they are 
said to be very hostile. 

For crews escaping when to the eastward of Cape Horn, the best course 
would be to the eastward of Navarin island and westward through the 
Beagle channel; stopping, if necessary, at Banner cove in.Picton island, 
or at the Narrows of Beagle channel, where, on the south shore, friendly 
natives are settled, and from which the Mission is distant about 30 miles. 

The approximate position of the Mission settlement is in lat. 54^ 53' S., 
long. 68^ 12' W. y 



v/ 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

MAGELLAN STRAIT. — EASTERN ENTRANCE TO SANDY 

POINT. 

Page 
General Remarks -------- 1-6 

Cape Virgins, Sarmiento bank. Dungeness. Catherine point. 
Lomas bay. Spiteful anchorage. Dineno mount. Possession bay - 5-10 

Plumper bay. — First Narrows. — ^Triton bank. — Gregory bay. — Second 
Narrows. — Queen channel. — Royal road - - - . 10-19 

Pecket harbour. — Santa MagdaJena island. — Walker shoal — Laredo 

bay.— Sandy Point road.— Tide table ----- 19-28 

Directions, Sandy Point Eastward. — Dungeness to Laredo bay. — Winds. 
— Barometer -------- 28-i34 

Seasons - - - - - - -- - 34-n37 



CHAPTEK II. 

MAGELLAN STRAIT.— SANDY POINT WESTWARD. 

General remarks. — Freshwater bay.— Santa Anna point. — ^Tides - - 37-38 

Port Famine. — Eagle bay. — Bournand bay. — Nassau island.— San 
Nicholas bay. — Cape Froward ------ 38-44 

Natives. — Snug bay. — Cape Holland,— Woods bay. — Cordes bay. — Port 
Gallant.— Elizabeth bay.— Tides 44-60 

Mussel bay. — Tilly bay.— Crooked reach. — Cape Quod. — Borja bay. — 

Crooked rock. — Long reach - - - . - . - 50-56 

Gruirior b^. — Cape Notch. — Swallow bay.— Glacier bay. — Playa Parda 
cove. — Pollard cove. — Port Angosto. — Cape Monday Tides - - 56-63 

Cape Upright. — Port Upright. — Gulf of Xaultegua; — Sea reach,- Cape 

Providence.— Round island. — ^Astr^e rock. — Cape and Port Tamar. — 

Tamar island -------- 63-67 

Port Churruca. — Sholl bay. — South Coast of Sea reach. — ^Tuesd^ bay. — 
Cape Cortado. — Port Mercy. — Cape Pillar. — Cape Parker.- Westmin- 
ster hall. — Los Evangelistas, — ^Tiaes ----- 67-74 



VI 



CHAPTER III. 

CHANNELS, FROM WEST END OF MAGELLAN STBAIT TO 

THE GULF OF PENAS. 

Page 
General Remarks. Supplies ...... 75 

Smyth channel. Lynch rock. Mayne and Gray channels. — Otter 
bay. Isthmus bay. — Hamper bay. — ^Victory pass ... 75-80 

Bessel rock. — Dixon cove. — Shingle road. — Sarmiento channel. — Van- 
couver island. — Mayne harbour.— Puerto Bueno. — Guia narrows. — 
Tides. — Concepcion channel -.--.- 80-84 

Molyneux sound. — Sandy bay. — Ringdove inlet. — Saumarez island. — 
Port Grappler.— Indian reacn. — English narrows ... 84-88 

Tides. — Lucas cove. — Hoskyn cove. — Messier channel. — ^Gray harbour. 
Direction islets. — Connor cove. — Island harbour.— Hale cove. — Port 
Ballenas.— Tides 88-93 

Tarn bay. — Guianeco islands. — Wind and Weather. — Supplies. — Tides. 
— Indians.— Madre islands. — Port Henry. — Directions.— Trinidad 
channel. — Port Barbara. — Directions ----- 93-100 

Boca De Canales. — Kelly harbour. — San Estevan gulf. — ^Tres Montes 
gulf.— Port Otway.— Cape Tres Montes - - - - 100-106 

San Andres bay.— Cone inlet. — Port San Estevan.— Anna Pink bay. — 
Canaveral cove. — Chonos Archipelago. — Port Melinka. — Port 
Ballena 106-110 



> 



TBB BI8TAVCX8 AMM BXVBaSBBD TK HMJk WOXMB OV 

TO A mmnw ov &atitu hb. 



oAB&a'8 unrmrai zs Asstnam to bb bqvab to 

loo vatbomo. 



CM AMB BBBVCBB TO ftOUT "VTATBB OB 

MAMT snnra tzbbs. 



SAILING DIEECTIONS 



FOR 



MAGELLAN STRAIT, AND CHANNELS LEADING 

TO THE GULF OF PENAS. 



CHAPTER I. 

MAGELLAN STBAIT — EASTERN ENTRANCE TO SANDY POINT. 



Vabiatxon in 1871. 
Eastern entrance - 20"* 5(/ E. | First Narrows - - 21'' 5' £. 



;. — ^The eastern entrance of Magellan strait lies be- 
tween cape Virgins on the north and cape Espiritu Santo on the south, in the 
paraUels of '52*^ 20" and 52^ 40' S., and the meridians of 68° 21', and 68° 35' 
West of Greenwich ; whilst cape Pillar at the western entrance is in lat. 
52** 43' S. and long. 74*^ 43' W. The distance therefore in a straight line 
from cape Virgins to cape Pillar does not exceed 240 miles, but the pro- 
jection of Brunswick peninsula adds more than 80 miles to this distance 
by water, obliging a ship to steer to the south-west and southward, until 
cape Froward is rounded, and thence to the west and north-west. 

In passing through the strait an entire change in the features of the 
country, and probably in the weather, will be experienced in its various 
parts. From cape Virgins to cape Negro the land is low and covered with 
grass, but not a tree is visible ; throughout this portion, extending 130 
miles, the depth of water rarely exceeds 30 or 40 &.thoms ; there are many 
banks and shoals, the tides are very rapid, with a rise and &I1 ranging 
from 15 to 42 feet, and anchorage may be found almost anwhere except 
in the narrows. 

At cape Negro mountainous and wooded country commences, and 



* This pamphlet cancels all Notices relating to Magellan strait, and other localities 
referred to herein. 

26634. A 



2 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — EASTERN PAET. [chap. i. 

continues, without even partial intermission, in all the western part of 
the strait, and also northward as £ar as Chiloe island; in this part the 
shores are steep, the water deep, and but little tide exists; the only 
difficulty in the navigation being that of obtaining suitable anchorages, at 
convenient distances, for the large steam-vessels which now pass through, 
and whose advent was not contemplated when the original surveys where 
made in H.M. Ships Adventure and Beagle^ 1826-32. 

To the eastward of cape Negro the prevailing weather is dear and bright 
with strong winds between N.W, and S.W., heavy rain occurring only with 
the wind northward of N.W., or the occasional easterly gale. To the 
westward of cape Negro, and especially after rounding cape Froward, the 
prevailing westerly winds bring much rain and thick weather, which, 
though unpleasant^ is seldom so thick, or so continuous, as to render the 
navigation seriously dangerous for steamers. 

The strait proper may, from the above conditions, be fitly divided into 
two portions, and as the Chilian settlement of Punta Arena (Sandy point) 
is only 14 miles southward of cape Negro, it seems a suitable point of 
division. Magellan strait is now so well known from the journals and 
reports of numerous officers 'of all nations who have passed through of 
late years, as to render it almost needless to remark that the utmost 
vigilance and caution will probably be required in making the passage ; 
though in all respects a safe one for steamers. 

At no season of the year is it advisable for a square-rigged vessel of any 
size with sail only to attempt the passage from east to west, even should 
she be so fortunate as to make the strait, and pass through both narrows 
with an easterly wind; for it is highly improbable that it would carry 
her through the whole strait, and she would almost certainly find herself 
beating through channels, ranging from 10 miles to 2 miles wide, in 
thick wet weather, with furious squalls or wiUiwaws^o vanable in their 
direction as to prevent her ever making a straight course, and with most 
of the harbours difficult both of ingress and egress. The passages of the 
old voyagers, some of whom were more than 80 days between port 
Famine and cape FiUor, sufficiently attest the inadvisability of the attempt 
for sailing ships.* 

During the summer months, from November to May, a sailing vessel 
might pass through from west to east, with the almost certainty of a fair 



• Byron in 1764 was 42 days; Wallis in 1766 82 days; Carteret 84 days; and 
Bougainville in 1768, 40 days, making 180 miles. 

Voyage oi Adventure and Beagle, Vol. I. 

The Beagle on one occasion, in jsmmner, was 30 days from port Famine to cape Pillaf , 
and another time in winter only 4 days. Ih, page 221. 

HM.S. Eisgard, a 4S.gan frigate, passed through from east to west under sail, in 
17 days, in Octoher 1843. 






CHAF. I.] GENEBAL BEHAKKS. o 

wind all the way, thongh nothiBg but smooth water would be gained by it. 
For a vessel with steam power, there are but few difficulties or dangers in 
navigating the strait either way that are not experienced in narrow channels 
and close harbours of the same latitude elsewhere ; but it is probable that 
at whatever season of the year a vessel may pass through, at least one gale 
of wind will be encountered. 

Under these circumstances, the question may arise in the mind of the 
seaman as to which route is the most desirable to take : Magellan strait, or 
the longer route by cape Horn. In a steam-vessel with good ground tackle ; 
in a deeply laden vessel • and especially in a vessel weighted with armour, the 
passage through the strait with its smooth water and frequent anchorages 
would doubtless be preferred to that of encountering the high sea off cape 
Horn with the attendant straining and labouring of the ship. 

During the summer months a vessel with moderate steam power should 
not, under ordinary circumstances, be more than four or five days between 
cape Virgins and cape Pillar, even if she anchors every night. Of course, 
there may be a delay of four or five days at an anchorage by a gale ; on the 
other hand, with favourable tides Sandy point may be reached in a day^ and 
after that she need not anchor at all. 

The difference in the duration of daylight in summer and winter naturally 
forms an important consideration in this navigation. It must be remem- 
bered that in December a vessel may weigh at 2h. 30m. A.M. and pursue her 
voyage till 8h. dOm. p.m., while in June the time will be limited from 8 aoc* to 
4 TM* The period of full moon is the best for making the strait^ as the tides 
serve at that time for passing the Narrows, and the moonlight may save many 
hours anxiety at night.^ 

Before describing Magellan strait in detail, a few words may be said on 
the passage down the east coast of the continent. After leaving Monte Video, 
or passing the Bio de la Plata, the principal aim should be to keep well in- 
shore, which can be done in safety, as the winds are almost always from the 
westward, and an easterly gale never comes on without ample warning. 
Cape Corrientes should be passed at a distance of 40 or 50 miles, when a 
course should be shaped for the centre of the gulf of St. George (about 
S.S.W.), until southward of Valdes peninsula, then steer to sight cape Blanco, 
to enable the longitude to be verified. After passing Sea Bear bay keep 
westward, so as to get under the lee of cape Virgins* 

This western route cannot be too much insisted on, and a vessel making 
the passage under sail would do well to make a tack inshore, even though 
with apparent loss of ground, to maintain it. As long as the wind does not 
veer to the eastward of South the water will be smooth, and more sail can be 
carried than if &rther out ; and should the wind come from S.E. (unless 

* 5e« Bemarks on the tides, page S5. 

A 2 



4 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — EASTERN PART. [chap. i. 

when just off cape Blanco), the land recedes so much as to afford plenty of 
room. On the other hand should the vessel be permitted to get to leeward, 
or off shore, it may take a day or two of hard steaming, at a large consump- 
tion of coal, to make cape Virgins. 

The same route is recommended for going northward, though if it is not 
intended to call at Monte Video it is of less consequence, as it will not 
generally be found difficult to close the land on approaching Rio da 
Janeiro. 



k. — The banks at the entrance of this river have 
changed consiberably since the survey made by Captain Stokes in 1828, 
H.M.S. Nassau in 1867 grounded in 8 feet at low water, close to where 10 
fetthoms was marked in the chart. As however there is a rise and &11 of 
tide of 46 feet at springs, a vessel of moderate draught can always enter at 
half tide by keeping close round the southern point. No large vessel should 
attempt to go inside. 

CAPB VAXftTinBATBBit, on the north side of the above river, is said to 
resemble cape Virgins, so that a stranger may be misled by it at the distance, 
of a few leagues, as was the case with the Adventure and Beagle on their 
first voyage to the strait.* But, besides the improbability of a vessel being 
50 miles out in latitude, the eye or lead should detect the mistake, for in 
clear weather the Friars and other hills would be visible, and in thick 
weather the lead wiU be a sure guide ; at a distance of 4 miles off cape 
Fairweather to the north-eastward there are only 4 or 5 fathoms water, 
whereas at the same distance on that bearing from cape Virgins 15 to 20 
fathoms will be found, shoaling quickly to 8 or 10 fathoms as the shore is 
approached. The nature of the bottom also is different, n^ud being found 
off cape Fairweather, and coarse sand or gravel off cape /Virgins.f 

The latter cape moreover has a long point of shingle (Dungeness spit) 
running off for nearly 5 miles to the S.W., which, though not visible far at 
high water, shows very plainly as the tide falls ; and lastly, in clear weather 
the distant hills of Terra del Fuego, and even cape Espiritu Santo itself, 
will be visible, and as the vessel brings cape Virgins to bear northward of 
N.N.W. mount Dinero will open southward of it. At 18 miles to the 
southward of cape Fairweather the line of cliffs, which is broken by the 
mouth of the Gallegos river, again commences, and continues to cape 
Virgins with only one or two breaks, in one of which, 8 miles north of the 
latter cape, a boat might land if necessary. There is good anchorage along 
the whole coast between the Gallegos and cape Virgins, at 2 to 5 miles 
from the shore but the bottom is rather stony. 

♦ Voyage of Adventure and Beagle. Vol. I. p. 617. 

f See Admiralty Chart, South America, East Coast, Sheet 10, Ko. 1284. 



CHAr. I.] CAPE FAIRWEATHEK. — SARMIENTO BANK. 



is 135 feet highland in approaching the strait, from 
the eastward is the best point to make, and usually the first land seen. In 
clear weather it is visible from 20 to 25 miles, and when made from the 
northward, it will appear as an extreme of land between the bearings of 
S.S.E. and W.S.W. ; Dungeness spit will not be visible until much nearer* 
To the southward of W.S.W., mount Dinero will show as a small nipple 
opening clear of it. Should a vessel from the northward find the wind so 
strong as to prevent her proceeding, an anchorage quite sheltered from 
westerly winds will be found between the cape and Condor cliff.* 

Cape Virgins and cape Espiritu Santo have certain points of resemblance, 
for both are marked with white cliffs forming the seaward termination of a 
range of hills of moderate height, extending into the interior ; and both 
capes have low shingle points connected with them, which reduce the width 
of the entrance to 14 miles from point to point. 

virffin Reef, which at half tide is scarcely observable, dries nearly a mile 
E. by N. from the cape. There are 4 to 5 fathoms close outside it, but it 
is not advisable to pass very close, as the height of the cape jnakes it 
difficult to judge exactly the distance from the shore. 

BASBKZBirTO BAJTX, taking 10 fathoms as its limit, extends from 
cape Virgins 20 miles to the S.S.E. , its outer edge following the line of 
coast from the northward, find being kept in that line by the rapid current 
which sweeps along it. The extreme breadth of the bank at right angles 
to its general line of direction is about 5 miles, and the widest part is 8 miles 
from the cape ; the shoalest water on it (exclusive of the Nassau rock) is 
3 fathoms, lying 3 miles S.E. from cape Virgins, or 4^ miles N.E. | E. 
from the end of Dungeness spit. 

* The best route to the strait is to pass over the Sarmiento bank, which 
can be done with perfect safety between half flood and half ebb, but care 
must be taken to keep 1^ miles off cape Virgins, to avoid the Virgin reef, 
and not more than 2^ miles off, unless it is intended to pass southward of the 
Nassau rock. Approaching from the eastward, or in a large vessel, it wiU be 
better to go to the southward of this danger, as the water gradually deepens 
in proceeding. At low water a large vessel should not cross within 
10 miles of cape Virgins, beyond which distance the soundings will be more 
regular than farther north. 

Before entering the strait the tides (see page 25) should be carefully 
considered, as on them will principally depend whether a good or bad 
passage to Sandy point is made. An anchor might be dropped, if 
necessary, to wait for the tide on any part of the bank ; but as it is quite 

* See Admiralty Chart, Eastern Entrance, Magellan Strait, with Views, Sheet 1, 
No. 1336 ; scale, m = 0*75 inch. 



6 MAGELLAN STRAIT.— EASTERN PART. [chap. i. 

exposed, and the holding ground indifferent, it would, if possible^ be much 
better to get under Dungeness spit. 

Vassau Sook« on which H.M.S. Nassau struck in January 1868, while 
sounding on the bank, lies E. hj S. (S. 80^ E.) distant 3^ miles from 
cape Virgins. It is a small pinnacle with only 3 feet at low-water springs, 
and 3 to 6 &thom8 close to. There is a little kelp on the rock, but not 
enough to mark it, and except in a gale the sea does not break until nearly 
low water. 



BOUirBnros^ — When standing across the Sarmiento bank to the south- 
ward, the fine dark sand found outside a depth of 20 fathoms, changes to 
coarse slaty sand with small stones and shingle, the stones being chiefly 
slaty. The ridge of this bank (like almost all the banks in the strait) is 
shingle, while inside it, coarse sand and shingle are mixed. As a rule, the 
shoaler the water the coarser the bottom. 

When to the northward or eastward of the bank, the bottom is fine 
brown gray sand, while near the latitude of cape Virgins ; but when 2 or 3 
miles N.N.E. of the cape the sand is darker, and has been compared to 
steel filings. At 3 or 4 miles northward of the cape, a mile off shore, the 
bottom is shingle, but at half a mile it is clay. 

In standing east from cape Virgins fine brown sand without shell or 
stones will be found. Outside the bank, to the east or south-eastward, 
sand and gravel, sand and shell, or plain sand, black or gray, may be found 
indifferently, as also in the deep water between the bank and the coast of 
Terra del Fuego ; but as the water shoals on approaching the latter, the 
stones generally become smaller, the sand finer, and mixed with mud. 

Bmcnnss is a low spit, extending nearly 5 miles from the foot of the 
low range of hills, which, varying in height from 160 to 240 feet, unites 
cape Virgins with mount Dinero. The beach on both sides is of shingle ; 
and above the high-water mark the spit is covered with long coarse grass 
and a thick undergrowth of scrub, forming a kind of network with the long 
kelp, which is blown up by the heavy gales and dried in the summer's 
sun. From the quantity of this weed which covers the spit, as well as 
frt)m the large pieces of wreck found all over it, sometimes more than a 
mile from either beach, it seems evident that at times the sea must break 
over its whole extent. 

This can only occur, however, in the heaviest easterly gales, when the 
sea with the whole fetch of the Atlantic break against it ; for 'H.M^S.' Nassau 
rode out a furious storm from the westward under its lee on Christmas day 
1867, during which a party was camped on the west side of the spit, and 
, although the tent was blown away, and the water from Shark creek 
overflowed the camping ground, no seas reached it. 



CHAP. I.] DtJNGBNESS. — SHARK CREEK. 7 

Like the point of the same name in England, Dangeness is steep-to, 
having 20 fathoms close to the Ness. There is good anchorage on both 
sides of the spit, and convenient for vessels bound either way, to await a 
change of wind or tide, or to stop at night. The bottom is stiff blue mud? 
which on the east side is thinly overlaid with stones. 

Zealous anchorage on the west side, is perhaps the best, as the curve of 
the spit enables a vessel to anchor well under the north shore, and conse- 
quently out of the strength of the tide. This anchorage will be found most 
convenient for a vessel bound eastward meeting with an easterly wind, to 
await the shift to the westward. H.M.S. Zealous, an ironclad of 4,000 tons, 
took advantage of this anchorage, in March 1867. 

In strong south-westerly winds it would be best to anchor under the lee, 
on the eastern side, where, though the squalls come very hard across the spit, 
there is no sea until the wind draws southward of S.S.W., when it becomes 
a leading wind into Possession bay. The best anchorage outside the spit is 
in 9 or 10 &thoms water, with the Ness bearing S.W. ^ S. distant about 2 
miles, and cape Yirgins N. ^ E. The anchoring ground extends much 
further to the north-eastward, but as all westerly gales draw to S.W. before 
dying away, it is better, if possible, to be to windward, and so, in case of the 
cable parting, to be able to weather the 3-£athom patch, and pass either side 
of the Nassau rock. 

Inside, a large vessel should not pass within a line between mount 
Dinero and the spit end (W. by N. f N. and E. by S. f S.), and anchor so 
as to secure from 6 to 8 fathoms at low water ; and it must not be forgotten, 
in picking up an anchorage anywhere in the eastern part of the strait, that 
allowance must be made for 7 fietthoms rise and fall of tide outside the First 
narrows, and 5 fathoms inside, (See tides, page 25.) In this position a 
vesssel wiU be well sheltered until the wind veers to the southward of West, 
and will have no difficulty in clearing the Ness should it blow hard from 
S.W. or S.S.W. There are two conspicuous sand patches on the face of the 
cliff, from which Dungeness projects, which look like roads ; the easternmost 
of these should bear about N. by E. from the anchorage. 

A vessel bound westward should quit either of these anchorage as soon as 
possible after the strength of the S.W. wind is over, and reach Possession bay, 
Spitefal, or Plumper anchorages, so as to push through the Narrows as soon 
as the wind dies away or draws to the S.E. This may be well effected by a 
steamer of ordinary speed against the tide, for westerly winds will generally be 
found to freshen considerably as the flood stream commences. Westerly winds 
usually fall considerably about sunset, and by being ready to take advantage 
of this, a vessel may frequently get through the First narrows before dark. 

BHAJUK CBMMK, runs in from the west side of Dungeness, and turning 
northward continues nearly 2 miles parallel to the western beach. A boat 



8 MAGELLAN STBAIT. — EASTERN PART. [chip. i. 

can enter it soon after half-flood, and a small vessel might easily be hauled 
in to examine her bottom or make repairs. After passing the entrance, the 
water deepens and the creek becomes wider for some distance ; the entrance 
is abont 20 yards across at high water, increasing to 40 or 50 yards inside. 

CAPB> BSVZBxnr 0AWTO, on the opposite or Tierra del Faego shore, is 
a steep white cliff about 190 feet high, and is the seaward termination of a 
range of hills, varying from 200 to 900 feet in height, which extends 
N.E. and S.W. at the back of the promontories which form the Narrows, 
as far as cape Boqueron opposite port Famine ; the highest part of this 
range terminates in Gap peak, which rises 925 feet above the sea, between 
the First and Second narrows. This cape does not show as an extreme 
until inside the strait/ but if made from seaward its appearance is very 
remarkable and unnristakeable. as being the highest part of a Hne of white 
diffs indented by bays, which at a distance give it the appearance of having 
had gaps cut in it.* 

As the land is approached, a remarkable detached lump of cliff appearing 
like an island, will be seen in the bay inmiediately south of the cape. The 
land here must not be approached very close, as due east from the cape the 
low-water line extends a mile off, while from 2 to 3 miles to the northward 
it dries 1^ miles from the shore. 

OATBBBzn onrr, the north-east extremity of Tierra del Fuego, is 
formed of shingle similar to Dungeness on the opposite shore. Like 
Dungeness it also appears very low at high water, but the difference which 
a change of level of 40 feet makes in the appearance of such spits must not 
be forgotten in estimating their distance. 

Grenerally speaking vessels enter the strait from the northward, in which 
case they should keep on the north shore, at least^ as far as Spiteful 
anchorage. Vessels from the Falkland islands, however^ or those unlucky 
enough to have been set to the southward, may find good anchorage outside 
Catherine point. Anchorage may be had here for a lai^e ship about 
midway between cape Espiritu Santo and the point, in 14 or 15 fiithoms 
water, 4 miles off shore, with the cape bearing S.S.E., and the extremity of 
the point West. 

H.M.S. Sutlej rode out a gale in 1863, with the point bearing S.W. 
and the cape S.£. ^ E. in 10 fathoms. H.M.S. Nassau rode out two 
heavy gales in 1867, with the same objects bearing W. by S. and S.E. ^ E. 
in 5 fetthoms. Either of these positions are sufficiently sheltered from 
S.W. winds, but it is advisable not to bring Catherine point southward 
of W. by S. in choosing a berth, as northward of that line the tide is so 
strong as to cause a vessel to be tide-rode even in a gale of wind, and to roll 

- 1 II • — • • — — - - — — - ■' _ t I I _■ __ ■ 

* See sktttch on Chart. 



CHAP. I.] CATHERINE POINT. — SPITEEUL ANCHORAGE. 9 

heavily. The great advantage of this anchorage is, that a ship has no lee 
shore with any wind fix)m N.N.W. round by West to South. 

&OBKAS BAT. — ^Between Catherine point and cape Orange (23 miles to 
the westward) is a large bight called Lomas bay. An extensive bank 
commencing at Catherine point, projects rather more than 2 miles westward, 
and then follows the trend of the coast at 4 to 5 miles distance into the bay ; 
there, turning with the coast to the N.W., under the name of the Great 
Orange bank, extends more than 10 miles in this direction, until, meeting 
with the rushing stream of the First narrows, its northern edge is abruptly 
cut off in the line of the south shore of the narrows. 

A vessel may find anchorage in 6 to 8 &thoms water (sand and stones) 
in Lomas bay, but it is not recommended. It is considerably out of the way, 
and its approach rendered intricate by the surrounding banks, which appear 
to dry in all directions near the vessel at low water. The hills on the south 
shore are not well defined, those which are seen from the channel being 
10 miles inland, and not, as they appear, near the water ; and the distance 
makes it difficult to distinguish good marks, such as capes Possession and 
Orange, Direction hills, or mounts Dinero and Aymond, which make it so 
easy to fix a vessel's position when in the channel or on the north shore.* 

BPTTwaruiM AircBOBAOB, to the eastward of the Orange bank, will be 
found a useful stopping place in westerly and especially south-westerly gales. 
Although a vessel may approach cape Orange on a bearing of W.S.W. to a 
distance of 8 miles, the unevenness of the bottom and strength of tide 
setting across this line render it unadyisable to do so ; the best anchor- 
age will be found in 8 to 10 fathoms water, with cape Orange bearing 
S.W. by W. I W., cape Possession N. ^ W., Direction hill W. ^ S., and 
mount Aymond N.W. by W. f W. 

As the chart shows, the anchorage ground is not confined. The strength 
of the tide is its only disadvantage, though much strain is taken off 
the cable during the flood stream, with which, as before remarked, westerly 
winds generally freshen. On the other hand, this anchorage has the 
advantage of being more sheltered from west or south-west winds than 
Possession bay. It was observed here that the tide turned 1^ hours after 
high and low water. 

MOUirr Bmso. — When southward of cape Virgins mount Dinero, 
a conical hill 280 feet high, and 8 miles to the westward of the cape, will 
be seen.l Prom thence the land continues between 200 and 400 feet high, 
rather level topped, and generally covered with grass and scrub to cape 
Possession, where it turns in to the north-westward. 

* At Lomas bay, and off Catherine point to the eastward, the tidal streams turn at high 
and low water hy the shore. 
f See sketch on Chart. 



10 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — EASTERN PART. [chap. i. 

This part of the coast is fronted by a shore of mud and stones, with rocky 
ledges oflF the points, which dry off at low water, from a quarter to half a 
mile. At 3 miles eastward of cape Possession there is a remarkable bare 
sandy patch, making a good mark for bearings. 

"WaUta Slioai, with only 9 feet water on it, lies W. f S. nearly 10 miles from 
Dungeness. It is connected with the main land^ and no vessel should pass 
north of it. Cape Virgins, well open of Cliff hill, leads outside this danger. 

CJIPB POBSBSSZOir is a bold perpendicular headland rising 385 feet above 
the sea, the face of which is deeply furrowed. The land behind it dips so 
much that the cape makes as an island at 15 or 20 miles distant on either side. 

posBBBSZdv BJLT« extending from cape Possession to the entrance of 
the First narrowsy has anchorage all over it, though open to winds from the 
southward of S.W. Stonewall anchorage in the eastern part of the bay 
is well sheltered from the east, with a bottom of stiff blue mud, and being 
free from strong tides or high sea, is a safe anchorage in any wind. A berth 
may bo selected anywhere from 2 to 6 miles westward of the cape, but the 
best berth is with Direction hill bearing 8.W. ^ W., and the extreme of 
cape Possession E. ^ S.^ nearly in line between the cape and mount Aymond. 
Farther out the holding ground is not so good. The Japanese iron-clad 
Stonewall remained at anchor there a week, and took in 100 tons of coal 
from a barque alongside. 

If anchoring in westerly winds, or with the expectation of having to 
remain two or three days, a more convenient anchorage may be had further 
to windward in the western part of the bay. In steering for the anchorage 
and selecting a berth in a large ship, care should be taken not to bring 
mount Aymond to the northward of W. by N. \ N.^ so as to clear the eastern 
edge of the Narrow bank ; nor should Direction hill be brought to the 
southward of S.W., as the shoal water extends a long way out in the north 
comer of the bay. Coming from the westward, the land eastward of cape 
Possession should not be shut in by it until the above bearing of mount 
Aymond is on. Smaller vessels will find a good berth 2 miles southward 
of Tandy point with mount Aymond bearing N.W. by W., and Direction 
hill S.S.W. I W. More tide will be felt here than in the eastern part of 
the bay. 

"Water. — The watering placCi 1^ miles west of Tandy point, is a small 
pond of delicious water just inside the high line of the beach. Like all the 
fresh water ponds along the coast, if carefully approached, some ducks will 
probably be found in it. There is no available water between this and 
St. Jago bay, but watering would be easier in St. Jago than in Possession 
bay, owing to the heavy surf which usually breaks on the beach at the 
latter place, and the distance to which the bank dries out at low water. 



CHAP. I.] POSSESSION BAT. — PLtrMPER ANCHOBAGE. 11 

Should it be necessary, however, to water in Possession bay, a vessel might 
be brought closer to the place than the anchorage given. 

VASSO'vr MAVMni — The north-east extreme of this bank, taking the 
5-fathom line of soundings as its limit, stretches nearly 9 miles to the N.E. 
of the Direction bank, and inside it to the westward is another bank of fine 
sand which dries at low water. It may be crossed between half flood and 
half ebb, but this should not be done except in case of necessity, especially 
with a falling tide, as the depth on it is very uneven, and probably the sands 
shift, while, as on the Great Orange bank, the tide falls rapidly, and the 
stream sets very strongly across it. 

niUMFBR AircBOftAOB is formed by the ebb stream through the 
Narrows, which turns round the east edge of the Direction bank into 
Possession bay. It is an indifferent anchorage, as recent examination 
shows that the banks there have shifted considerably during the last few 
years, and as the tide runs 5 knots it is probable they will be con- 
stantly changing ; the water also shoals very suddenly, both towards 
the Direction and Narrow banks. The anchorage may be used, however, 
as a stopping place for a vessel unable to pass the Narrows, and anxious not 
to lose ground; it was so used by H.M.S. Plumper in 1867. 

The best way to pick up a berth is to bring mount Aymond to bear 
N.W. J N., and steer for it, making allowance for the tide, till Direction 
hill bears W.S.W., when there wiU be about 13 fathoms water. The 
anchor must be let go immediately the bottom is obtained, as any delay may 
put the ship in 2 or 20 fathoms, according to the tide. 

MOTOT ATMOiTDf nearly 8 miles inland to the N.W. of Possession 
bay, is 867 feet high, and has near it to the westward four sharp rocky 
summits, called Asses ears. The mount forms an excellent mark when 
advancing towards the First narrows from the eastward, and can also be 
seen for some distance westward of them. The appearance of the ears 
change much according to their bearing, on some bearings all are seen, 
and on others only one. 

BZBHCTZOir MXVLB wiU be seen as soon as cape Possession is passed, 
and appear, qm do the hills near cape Orange, like islands ; as they are 
approached, however, the low land round them will be seen, but their 
summits rise well above the surrounding hummocks. The highest of the 
Direction hills is 224 feet above the sea. 



OlfcAiros, 8^ miles S.E. of Direction hills, terminates in a sharp 
conical hill 152 feet high, and is quite unmistakeable. As it is approached 
a remarkable white patch of cliff will be seen on the east face of it. 



12 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — EASTERN PART. [chap. i. 



The nxBT WASROws. — This channel is 10 miles long and 2 miles 
broad, with cliffy shores, and an average depth of 40 fathoms ; it affords 
no anchorage, except on the coast between Anegada and Espora points, 
where a schooner or small vessel may anchor out of the tide. 

From a position about a mile S.S.E. of Dungeness, a W. by S. ^ S. 
course for 30 miles, irrespective of tidal influences, will lead nearly 2 miles 
clear of a detached 2-fathom patch, the northermost of the dangers off 
Great Orange bank; and when cape Orange bears S. by W., or mount 
Aymond N.W. by W., the course may be altered to S.W. by S., which will 
lead about midway between that part of Great Orange bank off Anegada 
point and Direction bank on the western shore. 

In the above route from off Dungeness^ a bearing of Direction hill will, 
when in sight, ensure keeping clear of Great Orange bank ; but it is to be 
remembered that in a region of proverbially bad weather such intricate 
navigation and strong tidal streams render increased caution necessary, 
and the frequent fixing of the ship's position an absolute necessity. 

In clear weather Nuilez head, a triangular cliff 95 feet high, will be seen 
projecting from the north shore, and if the wind should be from the north- 
west or west, a vessel may steer for it, observing to keep it well open of the 
coast to the eastward of it as she advances. 

Both shores in the Narrows are steep-to, but it is better to keep on the 
north side, as Anegada point dries out a long way. From abreast Nunez 
head, in mid-channel, a S.S.W. course should be steered for nearly 10 miles, 
when Satellite patch, Barranca ledge, and the shoal water off Baxa point 
will be passed, and whence a S.W. ^ W. course will lead to the southward 
of both Triton and Tribune banks, and all through the Second narrows. 
If it is blowing strong from the N.W., or if intending to anchor in Gregory 
bay, S.W. by W. will be a better course. 

It is here assumed that the Southern passage between the narrows is the 
one chosen ; a glance at the chart will show how much preferable it is to 
the Northern. Indeed the Northern passage should never be used unless 
when seeking anchorage before reaching Gregory bay, or coming from the 
westward and anxious to anchor as near the First narrows as possible. 

After passing the First narrows, the strait opens out to a width of 
15 miles, forming two bays, Philip bay on the soutli, and St. Jago bay on 
the north, and continues at this width for 20 miles, when it again narrows 
between St. Isidro point and cape Gregory, and the Second narrows 

commence. 

It may be remarked that a vessel having got into the First narrows on 
the last of a fair tide must not be deceived in ita strength by being able to 
make good way ; with ordinary power she may easily steam against the tide 



CHAP. I.] FIRST NARROWS. — TRITON BANK. 13 

by keeping close in shore while actually in the Narrows, and it is not till 
she gets into the entrance, and is almost through, that she will meet with 
the full force, which requires a very powerful vessel to stem (without a 
fair wind) at springs. 

Satellite patob lies nearly a mile S.E. by E. from Barranca point. 
It ha& 3 feet on the shoalest part at low water, and is usually marked 
by kelp ; but when the tide and wind are strong, the kelp is run under 
from half flood to half ebb ; the strength of the stream is from 5 to 8 
knots, and there is no slack water. The outer edge is steep-to, but its 
inner edge joins Barranca point.* 



extends from a mile S.W. of the Satellite patch 
nearly in a line with the coast, and occupies the whole north-east part 
of St. Jago bay, almost to VaUe point. Good anchorage may be had in 
easterly winds on the west edge of this bank, where the kelp forms a 
capital breakwater for the vessel. Indeed the kelp is often most service- 
able in this respect in these large bays, as the water is almost invariably 
smooth in it or under its lee. 



is the next danger to the south-westward of Barranca 
bank, and lies nearly in the track midway between the Narrows. When 
first examined in 1834 it was of small extent, and had 2 fathoms on its 
shoalest part, but since that time, it seems to have increased and shoaled 
to 1^ fathoms,t while another bank (Tribune) has formed to the westward 
of it. Its shoalest part bears E. by N. from the shoulder of Gregory 
range. When abreast of it, Sutlej hill (509 feet high) will begin to show 
out clear of the range at the back, forming a good mark ; and in some 
lights Useful hill (176 feet), one of the several peaked hillocks in this 
vicinity, will also be seen as a small double hill close to the shore of 
St. Jago bay and over Yalle point ; and in clear weather Gap peak wUl be 
seen to the southward. 

Here it may be remarked that all over this eastern portion of the strait 
the most remarkable difference takes place in the appearance of the land 
acccording to the light in which it is seen. Cape Virgins and Espiritu 
Santo have been said to be white cliffs, but to a person making them 
late in the day they will appear black. Under ordinary circumstances 



* See Admiralty Chart, Magellan Strait, with Views, Sheet 2, Ko. 1337 ; scale, 
m = 0*75 inch. 

f The 2 feet reported on the Triton bank by H M.S. Satellite is believed to be an 
error, owing to a wrong redaction having been used for the soundings. According to 
the soundings siuce obtained by H.M.S. Nassau, if a reduction of 34 feet (that used by 
the SateUite) were employed, the Triton bank would dry some time before low water. 
This, however, seems impossible, as the Nassau was anchored on it during two spring 
es, and passed it frequently in all weathers, without a break ever being seen. 



14 MAGELLAN STEAIT. — ^EASTERN PART. [chap. i. 

Gregory range will seem quite leyel| and the ground appears to rise intone 
even slope from the water's edge to its summit; while if brought into 
relief by light, or when covered with snow, the whole fiuje of the range 
will be seen to be in deep ravines and ridges, and a row of small hills will 
appear fringing the coast, between which and the commencement of the 
ascent to Gregory range there is a long valley abounding, in summer, with 
Guanaco and the Ostrich. 

Except in thick weather, before passing the Triton bank^ cape Gregory 
and the Hummock, will be seen on the north side appearing like islands, 
and a remarkable conical hill (Sharp), will be seen about a point to the 
south and west of cape Gregory, on the Fuegia side, and is a good mark 
until St. Simon's head appears. 

In thick weather the left shoulder of Gregory range will appear 
frequently through the mist. A bearing of it will always show the 
progress made, and if the lead is kept going, and the course attended to, 
no danger need be apprehended ; for if soundings are obtained under 12 
fathoms after hauling up for the Second narrows, it is evident that the ship 
is too far to the northward, and should be edged away a little, as no such 
soundings could occur to the southward, unless a vessel was a long way out 
of the track, and it is highly improbable that such an error would occur 
where the tide sets almost directly in line with the course.* 

Nothing but sand was found on this bank, being an exception to the 
general rule «f the shoalest parts, which are almost invariably composed of 
shingle. The tide sets very strongly over it, and there is usually a strong 
ripple near the shoalest part. 

TftZBinvB BAWX lies nearly 8 miles S.W. by W. from the Triton 
Bank, and has 3^ fathoms water on it. The course given above leads 
outside this, and a vessel hauling in for an anchorage in Gregory bay 
should keep the Cone well open oif cape Gregory till Gregory shoulder 
bears W. -^ N., when she will pass to the westward of the bank. Here, as 
elsewhere, a seamanlike allowance must be made for the tide.f 

These banks. Tribune, Triton, Barranca, and Satellite, though treated 
as separate banks for the purposes of navigation, are more properly one 
continuous ridge, connected by the 10-fathom line of soundings. The 
rapid tide as it sweeps out of either Narrows, seems to be divided here by 
the opposite one, which it forces backward, and as it sweeps into the bays 
on either hand it deposits its load of sand and shingle on these banks and 
round Philip bay, in the south-west part of which the shoal water 
extends 3 to 4 miles off shore. 



* £LM. ships Zealous and Naasan went fhrongh this part of the strait in rery thick 
weather, with the tide, in March 1867, without getting bottom from the chains or once 
easing speed. 

t See sketch on Admiralty Chart, No. 545. 



CHAP. I.] TEIBTJNE BANK. — GEBGORY BAT. 15 

The shoal reported by n.M.S. Termagant and GrappUr m 1860, and 
searched for by H.M.S. Satellite in the same year, has again been searched 
for in vain. 

Samaole s«ef, which has 2| fathoms on it, and lies 3 miles eastward 
of San Isidro point, is the only rocky ledge between the Narrows. 

ST. a'AOO BATi^-^Anohorage has been mentioned in this bay to the 
westward of the Barranca bank, and to this it may be added that there is 
anchorage all oyer the bay in depths varying from 5 to 20 fathoms. 
Except, however, under the conditions before mentioned (easterly wind or 
wishing to be as near the First narrows as possible) the best places are 
under Yalle point or the north shore in Gregory bay. 

Proceeding westward, if, on passing Barranca point, it be decided that 
Gregory bay cannot be reached, a ship should continue the mid-channel 
course until 2 miles beyond Satellite patch with the ebb stream, or a 
mile with the flood, and then haul in for Gregory shoulder, or about 
W. by S. i S. 

This will lead inside the Triton bank and clear of Barranca bank, when 
the land can be closed if it is desired to anchor ; or the shore can be 
approached to within 1^ miles, and followed along, and the vessel anchored 
anywhere between Valle point and Gregory bay. Irregular changes of one 
or 2 fathoms in the soundings must be expected, as the bottom is very 
uneven all over the bay. Valle point is steep, and with the hillocks 
above mentioned at its back will not easily be mistaken. At 2^ and 4 miles 
eastward of it there are watering places, which a ship can approach within 
a mile, and streams will be found at short distances all along the bay. 

ORBCM>ST BAT. — The anchorage in this bay commences about 2^ miles 
N.N.E. of cape Gregory, and a vessel should not go inside this line, i.e., 
the extreme of the cape bearing S.8.W. The Tribune spit no longer exists, 
the low-water line of the beach merely drying out three-quarters of a mile 
£:om the high- water mark, and following nearly the same direction round 
the bay. Ab the heaviest and most prevalent gales begin £rom the North 
and N.W., it is advisable to anchor well under the north shore. Very good 
berths may be had, with the Hummock anywhere between W. by S. \ S. 
and S.W. by W. \ W., from one to 2 miles off shore. 

If the south shore of the Second narrows be visible, Sweepstakes Fore- 
land (which will appear as an extreme), just shut in by Cape Gregory, is a 
good mark for afichoring. 

The exact time of the turning of the flood stream here with reference to 
the Second narrows seems doubtful. It has always been stated that it 
turned 2\ or 3 hours earlier at the anchorage than in the Narrows, but 
though several trials have shown *this to be the case sometimes, it is not 



16 MAGELLAN STRAIT. —EASTERN PART. [chap. i. 

always so ; and it is probable that the turning of the stream depends on the 
wind and the position in which the ship is anchored. In weighing for the 
westward with the tide, the vessel should proceed well out into the Narrows 
before keeping away, or she will be swept round into shoal water S.W. of 
cape Gregory. 

9«txx» aAT. — In this bay, which comprises the whole of the south 
shore between Baxa and St. Isidro points, there are several anchorages, 
but they are more exposed to the prevalent winds than those in St. Jago 
bay. A vessel may, however, stay a night or a tide, or find shelter from 
S.E. winds, with Baxa point bearing North, distant 3^ miles, and Gap 
peak if visible, S.S.E. ; or 5^ miles beyond the point on the same bearing, 
with Gap peak S.S.E. :^ E. A vessel leaving the latter anchorage for the 
westward with a fair tide, should steer for Gregory shoulder, or she will be 
set down on the foul ground at the head of the bay.* 

There is anchorage under St. Isidro point, well sheltered frt)m S.W., 
but the Barnacle reef eastward of the point should be carefully avoided. 
To anchor bring Double peak to bear S. ^ W., and steer for it on that line 
until Gregory shoulder bears W. by N. ^ N., or the Cone West. This bear- 
ing leads over the tail of the Barnacle reef in 10 fathoms, sand and shell. 
A vessel caught by the ebb tide too late to cross to Gregory bay, or to 
reach Boyal road, may find this a convenient stopping place. Along the 
centre of the bay, shoal water extends a long way ofi^. 

l»AP PSAX. — The land on the south shore of Philip bay is low, with a 
row of small hills like those on the north side fringing the coast, behind 
which the land gradually rises towards the range of high ground, which 
has been said to extend from cape Espiritu Santo to cape Boqueron, and 
of which Gap peak, 925 feet high, forms the only point useful to the 
mariner. In some lights the coast hills stand out clearly, but generally 
the land appears to slope from the beach to the back range. 

Tbe SHCOirs vjkMMoyKFB, lying S.W. 20 miles from the First narrows, 
are about 12 miles long and 4 to 6 miles broad. On the north side the 
land falls back from cape Gregory, and forms a large bight, in which 
there is a sand bank 1^ miles long that dries at low water, with its east 
end 1^ miles westward of the cape. At 5^ miles westward of the cape 
is the east end of the Halfway shoal lying parallel to the shore ; it is a 
mile in length, and has 3^ fathoms on it. The soundings between the 
shoals are from 6 to 10 fathoms. Susannah cove, inside these shoals, 
and 4 miles from cape Gregory, is only fit for boats. 

* The imder current here seems to be stronger than that on the sor&ce ; on one 
occasion, when the Nctssau was riding easily to the ebb tide, two sounding leads lashed 
together, and making 851bs. weight, would not rest on the bottom in 10 fittiioms water. 
iS*ee Flan of Gregory bay, on Admiralty Chart, No. 545. 



CHAP. I.] SECOND NARROWS. — QUEEN CHANNEL. 17 

The shoal water in this bight extends out to a line joining cape Gregory 
and Gracia point, the north-west extreme of the Narrows, and vessels 
passing through the Narrows should keep welL outside this line. A vessel 
working through the Narrows might, in fine weather, drop an anchor on 
the edge of the bank between the shoals, to prevent losing ground, but it 
is by no means a good or safe anchorage. 

Beyond the Halfway shoal the north shore is bordered by a bank, which 
near cape Gracia extends off a long half mile, with one fathom water 
on it and steep -to. These banks are the only dangers of the Second 
narrows. 

I'he south shore is higher than the north and steep-to, but after passing 
the Halfway shoal, when the Cone will bear N.N.W., a vessel should 
incline to the north shore to avoid being swept into Lee bay by the flood 
stream, or to get out of the strength of the ebb, both which make with 
great strength off cape St. Vincent. 

A vessel navigating the south side with a fair tide should steer from 
St. Isidro point to Gracia point, edging away gradually for Elizabeth 
island, as she passes Sweepstakes foreland. Having reached cape St. 
Vincent there are three routes to the southward, two of which are available 
for the largest ships. These are the Queen channel, close to the east side 
of Elizabeth island ; the passage through Royal road and south of Elizabeth 
island ; and the New channel, eastward of Sta. Marta and Magdalena 
islands. 

Large ships should use the Queen or New channels ; no vessel drawing 
more than 18 feet should attempt the passage through Royal road. 

QVBSV CBAwarBK. — This channel has generally been used up to the 
present time, as the existence of a bar between Sta. Magdalena and 
Quarter Master islands was believed in ; a few vesseb have, however, 
crossed the Adventure bridge. Although the New channel is broader and 
deeper than the Queen channel, it is not likely to be generally used by 
steamers, especially if it is intended to call at Sandy point ; and except 
for a sailing vessel working through, or when blowing so hard from the 
S.W. as to necessitate keeping fore and aft canvas on a steamer, Queen 
channel is decidedly to be preferred. 

A vessel intending to pass through Queen channel should from mid- 
channel between cape St. Vincent and Gracia point, steer for the north- 
west extreme of Elizabeth island, which shows as a bluff, until within 
about a mile of it ; then round Silvester point at 2 or 3 cables distance, 
and follow the trend of the island along at a mile off shore, until cape 
Thorax, its south extreme, bears W. by N., when all dangers are passed, 
and a course can be shaped for Sandy point. Nothing can be more simple 
than this passage ; the tide sets up and down the channel, and with the 

26634. B 



18 MAGhBLLAN STRAIT. — EASTERN PART. [chap. i. 

land so close that thick weather need not impede the progress of a ship ; 
the only possible danger is that of keeping away to the north end of 
Elizabeth island too soon^ by which a vessel is likely to be set on the shoal 
extending K. by E. ^ E. 2^ miles from Sta. Marta island, and which has 
only 2 fathoms water on its northern extreme. 

WBW csjkjm&. — From the same position, mid-channel between cape 
St. Vincent and Gracia point, a S.S.E. course leads straight through the 
New channel, which in no part is less than 3 miles wide, and has no- 
where a depth of less than 20 fathoms. The objections to this passage 
are the tides, which for 2 or 3jmileB southward of cape St. Vincent run 
E.N.E. and W.S.W., and directly across the course, rendering a vessel 
liable to be set either on to the New bank or the shoal already mentioned as 
extending from Sta. Marta island. The strength of the stream here is also 
much greater than would be expected from the expanse of water, and 
reaches ftdly 6 knots at springs, even when not aided by the wind.* 

As a vessel proceeds the flood stream inclines more and more southward, 
till when approaching the foul ground, which is marked by kelp off Sta. 
Magdalena island, it will be found setting S.S.W., or towards the danger. 
Though Sta. Marta and Magdalena islands and the hills on Elizabeth 
island will generally be visible, it may yet be difficult to fix the ship's 
position in thick weather. When a seaman becomes familiar with the 
navigation of these waters, he may find it convenient after passing Sta. 
Marta island to pass between the Walker shoal and Sta. Magdalena island^ 
or eastward of Sta. Marta between it and Sta. Magdalena, which latter is 
the most direct line of all, from cape St. Vincent to Sandy point. 

Both these latter passages are deep, but it is not advisable to take them 
until well acquainted with the various points on the charts, which can bd 
used for fixing the position ; for it must be borne in mind, that when once 
in any of these narrow passages with a fkir tide, you must go through, and 
it would generally only increase the danger to try to turn.^ In all this 
navigation the method of fixing the ship by sextant angles, with a statioti 
pointer or piece of tracing paper, is recommended ; the method is not only 
more accurate but quicker when a person becomes accustomed to employ it. 

The third channel mentioned is through Royal road and Pelican passage, 
which in places has only 4^ ftithoms water. Its only use is for a vessel 
intending to anchor in Royal road, and wishing to get as far on as possible 
before anchoring, so as not to lose ground in the moming.f 

so named by Sir Francis Drake, is 7^ miles 



* H.M.S. Nassau on one occasion could hardly make headway against the ebb stream 
at full speed, though it wiis ahnost calm at the time, 
t Sei Plalid:~Eatbotkrs and Anchorages in Magellan Stfait, with Tietrs, Ko. 545. 



CHAP. I.] ELIZABETH ISLAND.— ROYAL BOAB. 19 

long, and increMes in width from half a mile at the norfch end to 2 miles 
at the south end. It lies in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, nearly parallel 
to the coast near it, and is composed of ranges of hills, extending in 
ridges nearly in the direction of its length, which, it may be remarked, is 
the same as that of all the hills in this vicinity. The highest elevation on 
the island is 178 feet. 

If a vessel is unable to get to Laredo bay or Sandy point, there is good 
anchorage in about 7 fathoms water off the north-west end of Elizabeth 
island, with Gracia point bearing N. by E. ^ E., and the north extreme 
of the island in line with the south-west extreme of Magdalena island 
E. by S. A large ship should anchor farther off, in 9 fathoms, with the 
same objects bearing N. by E. and S.E. 

In anchoring after dark, allowance must be made for the tide setting the 
ship out into the channel, and should the island appear very close without 
soundings, the vessel is sure to be too far to the eastward, and should, 
therefore, edge to the westward until a proper depth is obtained. 

During the breeding season (from September to January) this island 
is covered with swans and geese, whose eggs may be obtained or the birds 
shot in great quantities, the spring being the best for the swans, who 
vacate the island for the geese in November. It is probable they retire 
here to escape the foxes, which are so numerous on the mainland. 

BOTA& SOAB, into which the Second narrows open, is formed by the 
west side of Elizabeth island, and the mainland. The middle ground, having 
on the shoalest part 2^ &thoms water, lies nearly halfway between Silvester 
point and Peckett harbour, and is the only danger in the north part of 
the road. Vessels may anchor in security and out of the strength of the 
tide in any part of the road, though the anchorage already mentioned off 
the north-west end of Elizabeth island seems the best. It has been said 
that no vessel drawing more than 3 &thoms should use the passage through 
Boyal road, as the deep water channel through Pelican passage is intricate, 
and the tides strong ; when the wind and tide are against each other they 
cause a dangerous race, with a sea 5 or 6 feet high, between cape Thorax 
and the main.* 

A vessel of moderate size may, however, safely take this route by 
passing eastward of the Middle ground, and keeping along the west side of 
Elizabeth island at half a mile distant, until cape Thorax bears about 
£!. by S. \ S., and the passage is well open, when steer for cape Porpesse, 
so as to avoid being set into the shallow water off Shoal haven. There is 
anchorage on the north side of cape Porpesse, but, except with S.E. winds, 
I/aredo bay is preferable. 

* See Admiralty Chart, Royal Road and Elizabeth island, with a^iacent channels 
No, 545. 

B 2 



20 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — ^EASTERN PART. [chap. i. 



is IJ miles westward of Gracia. point,, at the north 
end of Royal road. The entrance is narrow, but 1^ miles long, and when 
inside there is only a hole of about a quarter of a mile in extent in which 
a vessel could anchor. All the rest is dry, or nearly dry, at lowr water. 
In addition to this it is exposed to winds between S.W. and south ; 
there is no wood, and water could not be obtained except at high tide, 
and then with difficulty. 



r, adjoining Oazy harbour to the westward, affords 
anchorage in 2 to 4 fathoms water, well sheltered from westerly winds. 



PSCXSTT or PSCXBT HASBOITB, in both of which ways old writers 
Hpell the name of Narborough's lieutenant, after whom it is called, is 5 
miles southward of Oazy harbour, or 7 from Gracia point, and though the 
anchoring ground in it is confined, steam-vessels may pass in and out easily. 
Although apparently completely sheltered, a disagreeable sea gets up very 
quickly in this harbour with westerly winds, making it dangerous for 
boats ; it is moreover so much out of the way in passing through the strait 
that it is not likely to be much used, unless the government of Chili form 
a colony in its neighbourhood, where there is a considerable extent of 
level clear land.* 

The distance between the two points forming the apparent entrance 
is 1^ miles, but between Plaid island and Pemo point on the north, 
the whole space is a shoal of shingle, upon the greater part of which 
the sea breaks in a moderate breeze, while the channel between Plaid 
island and Puno point on the south, is only a quarter of a mile wide. The 
leading mark in is Puno point (which is a sand spit steep-to), on with 
the centre of Pitcher island ; when half way between the island and the 
point, steer S.W. by S. three-quarters of a mile, then west, and anchor 
with the summit of Pitcher island bearing N.E. 

Two arms run in from the west side of the harbour, the southern of 
which is nearly blocked up at the entrance at low water, and after running 
in a little more than a mile, ends in a swamp ; the northern is deep, and 
runs nearly 2 miles in a westerly direction, and then opens out into a large 
shallow lagoon, a chain of which probably extends to Otway water. 

The tide makes with considerable strength through this inlet, but loses 
some of its force on entering Pecket harbour, in which though the flood 
tide is strong the ebb is not much felt.f The rise and fall in the 
harbour does not exceed 1^ fathoms. 

In March and April numbers of wild fowl will be found in this harbour. 



* See Pecket Harbour, on Admiralty Chart, No. 545. 

-f During a week H.M.S. Nassau was in this harbour the vessel never swung to the 
ebb tide, while the flood was strong enough to keep her broadside on to a strong gale. 



J 



CHAP. I.] PECKETT HARBOUFw — SANTA MAGDALEN A ISLAND. 21 

There is good anchorage in 6 or 7 fathoms, outside the entrance, south 
of Pecket point. 

aavTA MLAJITA zsLawB, Ijing 1^ miles east of Silvester point, is 
only a third of a mile long, and its sides of perpedicular cliffs rise 100 
feet above the sea. Its top is flat, sloping slightly to the eastward. A reef 
extends N. by E. -J E. 2J miles from its north side, terminating in a patch 
marked by kelp, with only 2 fathoms water on it ; there are only 7 fathoms, 
nearly a mile, N.W. of it, while on the south side 6^ fathoms was obtained, 
close to 28 fathoms, l^ miles from it. It is to avoid these dangers, across 
which the flood tide sets strong to the eastward that it is recommended to 
keep well on the EL'zabeth island shore in passing. The irregularity of the 
tides makes the channel between Sta. Marta and Magdalena islands unsafe 
for a stranger. 

BjBMTJL BCAOBA&BarA Z8&AJr3>, 4 miles S.S.W. of Sta. Marta, lies 
N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., and is a mile long, by half a mile broad. It 
has four or Ave small hills, by which it cannot fail to be recognized, 
especially when coming from the westward, the highest of which at the 
south-west end rises 136 feet perpendicular from the water. As Elizabeth 
island is the favourite haunt of swans and geese, so is Sta. Magdalena 
island for cormorants, penguins, sea lions, and seals ; and on approaching 
the island the sides of the hills will be seen covered with penguins* and 
cormorants, while the water seems alive with seal and sea lions, plunging 
about in all directons and coming quite close to the ship or boats to look 
at them. A number of sea lions will also generally be seen on the beach. 
The cormorants were hatching in December. 

The 10-fathom line of soundings extends nearly 1^ miles north and south, 
and 2 miles east and west around this island, and it should not be closed 
inside this line by a passing vessel. On the north-east side, the edge of 
the deep water is usually well marked by kelp and tide ripplings, and 
sometimes also these may be seen to the S.W. 

There is an anchorage in 6 or 7 fathoms to the south of Magdalena, 
-well sheltered by the island between North and West. In anchoring, the 
south end of the island should be brought to bear about N.W. by N. distant 
a little more than half a mile, and the ship steered in N. by W. 

Westward of Magdalena, outside the shoal water immediately surrounding 
the island, deep water extends eastward for 4 miles, or to within a mile of 
Quarter Master island. 

iBlTaiker Sboal, between Sta. Magdalena and Elizabeth islands, lies nearly 
north and south, and is 4 miles long by one mile broad. It is divided into 
two parts with deep water between them. The least depth is 3^ fathoms 



* Jackass Penguins (jsphenUcus demersns,') 



22 MAGELLAN STBAIT. — EASTERN PART. [chap. i. 

which bears N.E. bj E. ^ E., distant 3^ miles from cape Negro. Vessels 
maj pass either side of this shallow patch, but the west side is preferable. 

un BAT* southward of cape St. Vincent (the south point of the 
Second narrows) is useless, dangerous, and much to be avoided. The 
New bank, 4 miles long hj l\ broad, has only 7 feet water on it, and lies 
S.S.E. from cape St. Vincent ; though there is deeper water inside it, the 
bottom is very uneven, and the whole place exposed to wind, sea, and tide. 

A vessel might anchor about 1^ miles inside cape St. Vincent, in 9 or 10 
fathoms water, faurlj sheltered from North and N.W. winds, but the sudden- 
ness with which these winds shift to S.W., or south-westerly gales spring 
up from calms, renders it very inadvisable to do so, unless merely to hold 
on for an hour or two for a change of tide in the middle of the day. 

QViL&TSK vukBTWrn XBAAITB, lying across the entrance of 6ente Grande 
bay, is crescent-shaped, and 70 feet high. A long spit dries off more than 
a mile from its north-east end, and the 5-fhthom line of sounding extends 
off both the north-east and south-west ends from one to If miles; the 
south end of the island is formed by a sand spit covered with grass, inside 
which there is anchorage in 5 to 7 &thoms, with the extremes of the island 
bearing about N.W. f N. and S.W. ^ W. This island seems also a 
favourite haunt of cormorants, which inhabit it in such numbers as to 
cause a most disagreeable smell at the anchorage. 

There is a deep channel on either side of Quarter Master island into 
Gente Grande bay, but that on the north is the wider of the two. From 
Gente Grande bay the land trends southward to Gente point, from which 
shoal water extends off about a mile* From Grente point Uie coast runs 
S.S.E. to cape Monmouth. 

OAFS Boqvmoir. — ^Beyond cape Monmouth and nearly 30 mile from 
Grente point is cape Boqueron, a precipitous headland forming the abrupt ter- 
mination of the high land already mentioned as extending across the country 
from cape Espiritu Santo. The shoulder of this range over the cape forms 
a most conspicuous mark from the neighbourhood of Sandy point. 

lOkMMno BAT, on the south side of cape Negro, is the easternmost 
anchorage in the strait where wood can be obtained though with the 
larger and better wood at Sandy point so near, a vessel would scarcely stop 
here for the purpose of wooding only. The bay, however, offers a secure 
anchorage when there is any westing in the wind ; and with easterly 
winds, which are uncommon, and which seldom blow with violence, no 
danger need be apprehended if the ground tackling is good, as the depth 
of water is easy, and the bottom sand and mud.* 



* See Laredo bay, ou Admiralty Chart, No. 545. 



CHAP. L] LAaiDO BAY, — SANDY POINT EOAD. 28 

In entering, a vessel should keep well on the north sbore, 40 there is a 
ledge of rocks off the southern point ; but oape Forpease should not be 
passed too close, as there is a 5-fathom patch nearlj a mile off it. The 
east extreme of Sta. Marta kept open to the northward of the southern 
point of the Narrows north-east of oape St. Vincent leads outside the 
5-fathom line of soundings. The best anchorage is in the north-west 
comer, with Hawk cliff (which will appear sm the eastern extreme of 
Elisabeth island) just open of oape Negro. No tide of any Qonsequenoe 
will be found inside Laredo bay ; indeed a line from oape Negro to 
Quarter Master island may be called the western limit of strong tideSi in 
Magellan strait. 

CATA&nrA BAT, of Barmiento, immediately north of Bandy point, 
has no good anchorage, and with Sandy point roadstead so near, it 
is not required. Just north of it there is a conspicuous white clay 
patch in the cliff, which is an excellent mark fbr fixing a ship's position. 
In some lights this patch looks like a ship under sail, when to the north- 
ward of it. 

SAJTBT POZiTT SOAB. — Sandy point, a low projection covered with 
grass and with a few trees on its inner part, extends more than a mile 
from the general direction of the coast. To the northward and north- 
eastward the water is deep close to, but to the east and south-east less than 
3 fathoms will be found l\ miles from the end of the spit.* 

At 2| miles southward of the point is the Chilian settlement, originally 
called Punta Arena, after the point, but now *^LaColoniade Magalhanes." 
The settlement is built on the summit of a bank, about 35 feet high, in 
front of which is a large flat formed by the deposit of a river, which 
runs past the settlement on the north side, and charged with sand from 
the hills to the westward, down which it descends with great force in 
seasons of heavy rain^ overflowing all the plain between the settlement and 
the water. A raised road has been constructed across this level to the 
water's edge, where two boat houses have been built ; a pier was also 
made of wood and stones in 1866, but it was badly constructed, and the 
winter gales of 1867 washed it away. 

Until lately Punta Arena has been kept merely as a penal settlement 
and was fast falling into a state of decay ; but in consequence of the 
rapidly increasing trafixc of late years through the strait, and the line of mail 
steamers between Valparaiso and Europe adopting this route, the attention 
of the Chilian Government was drawn to the importance of the station as 
a place of call and supply. Accordingly at the beginning of 1868, grants 
of land and other advantages were promised to immigrants, and in January 
a new Governor arrived in a vessel of war with some 300 settlers. Supplies 



n«li«aiM 



♦ See Plan of Sandy Point Boad, with View, on Admiraltj Chart, No. 545. 



24 MAGELLAN STEAIT. — ^EASTEEN FABT. [chaf. i. 

and plank were also brought, and the new comers put on rations until they 
could clear and cultivate their own lots. 

Sandy point is not easily distinguished from a vessel far out in the 
channel, as the houses do not show well against the dark background. 
The white patch mentioned to the northward of Catalina bay will, how- 
ever, generally be easily seen, and if the hills south of the settlement are 
clear, there is a remarkable white clay patch on the side of one of them, 
which is a good guide. The anchorage is good and well sheltered with 
the prevalent west and south-west winds, and easterly or south-easterly 
gales rarely blow home so as to make it unsafe to lie there. The moment, 
however, the wind has any easting in it, a surf sets in on the beach, and 
unless a proper pier is constructed or surf boats established, landing will 
frequently be found difficult or impossible in the winter months, when it is 
perfectly fine in the channel. 

An easterly gale alters the line of the beach considerably. A former 
Governor* (having had nine years' experience) said that he had only seen 
one easterly gale, and that the spit is rapidly extending in an easterly 
direction. In the summer the wind is said to increase with the rising, 
and decrease with the setting sun ; also that in September and October the 
winds blow strongest, but should September be fine, then October and 
November are the worst months. It is, however, impossible to lay down 
any exact rules for the weather, and experience has taught the oldest 
settlers that predictions are utterly futile.t 

The settlement seems to be placed in a sheltered spot, as it was found 
that the Nassau experienced many gales at the eastern entrance, and even 
between the Narrows, which were scarcely felt at Sandy point ; the fall of 
rain is also much less than to the westward of cape Froward. From these 
facts it seems probable that much of the wind from the westward passes 
in a straight line from the western entrance of the strait, across King 
William IV. land, the gulf of Xaultegua, Skyring, and Otway waters, on 
to that part of the strait lying eastward of cape Negi'o ; whilst Sandy point 
is sheltered by the hills behind, or westward of it. 

A vessel making for the anchorage should not close the land until the 
Flagstaff beat's to the northward of W. by N., to the southward of which 
line is the best anchorage. From a mile off shore on that bearing, a 
vessel may steer in W. by S. for the Cemetry cross, till the Flagstaff bears 
N.W. by W. anchoring in 5 or 6 fathoms water. A large vessel from the 
same position, should steer in West and anchor in 10 fathoms, with the 

* Sr. Jorge C. Schythe. 

f An intelligent Bussian blacksmith, 'who has been at port Famine and Sandy point 
eleven years, stated that it was useless to make any rulei as no two seasons were alike. 
He seemed quite decided that 1867 was the worst winter he had ever experienced here, 
but perhaps he had forgotten others. 



CHAP. I.] SUPPLIES. — TIDES. 25 

Flagstaff N.W. The chart and lead are, however, a sufficient guide, and 
the anchorage is clear to the southward of the settlement. 

suvpXiSss. — Wood and water are plentiful, and the former excellent for 
steaming purposes. An ample supply of fish may be caught near the mouth 
of the river north of the settlement ; the seine should be hauled at the com- 
mencement of the flood tide. As cattle and vegetables have always thriven 
well, there seems no reason why in a short time sufficient supplies should 
not be raised to meet the requirements of vessels that call. At present 
there is little to be obtained except from the Governor's garden or stock, 
though sometimes the colonists have a bullock or sheep to sell.* 

Coal has been found within 8 or 9 miles of the settlement, but until 
lately it has never been properly examined. There seems little doubt, 
however, of the existence of good steam coal, at or near the place where 
the out crop was found, and this will probably soon be developed under the 
present able and energetic Governor Senor Don Oscar Viel. When coal 
can be supplied, Sandy point will rise into importance, as no westward- 
bound vessel would think of going to the Falkland islands (nearly 500 
miles dead to leeward) if coal could be obtained in the strait. 

There is sufficient clear land about Sandy point to enable a visitor to get 
a walk or a ride, and horses are usually obtainable. In December many 
parrots may be shot in the woods, and in March and April a few snipe 
may be got. Banduria (a species of Ibis) will be seen and heard near the 
settlement, but they are very wary and difficult to get near. A few ducks 
and geese are occasionally found in the salt ponds 2 or 3 miles north of 
the settlement. In the woods there are two or three kinds of woodpeckers 
and some other small birds. Mushrooms will be found in great quantities, 
and very good, all over the plain in February and March. 

TZDBS. — It has already been said, but may here be repeated, that the 
question of the tides is of more importance than any other point in making 
a good passage through that part of the Magellan strait now under 
discussion. So important indeed is it, that a careful seaman will not leave 
its consideration until he approaches cape Virgins, but will regulate the 
speed of his vessel so as to arrive at the strait about the period of full 
moon. Before entering upon the direction and strength of the tides it 
should be stated that, with very slight local variations in harbours, there 
are two regular tides in the 24 hours. As regards anchoring or leaving 
anchorages little more need be said. 

The charts show the strength of the tide at ordinary springs and its 
direction at the different anchorages, and the seamen must make the same 
allowance for it as he would in any other tideway. In passing through 
the strait from the eastward, it should always be borne in mind that the 

* Cut wood can usually be obtained at a moderate price. 



26 



MAGELLAN STEAIT. — ^EASTERN PART. 



[chap. I. 



time of high and low water gets latei' m a vessel proceeds westward, until 
Bojal road is reached ; a oiroumstance which considerably facilitates the 
nayigation from east to west, and makes it easy for a yessel starting from 
Possession bay or even Pungeness in time to catch the first of the flood in 
the First narrows, to get to Royal road or Sandy point in a day, unless the 
wind is very strong agfunst her.* This refers to nine months of the year. 

During the depth of winter (June, July, and August), when there Is 
little more than 8 hours daylight, this would be difficult without weighing, 
and very likely coming to, in the dark. The seamen acquainted with the 
navigation need not, however, hesitate to do either of these. Another 
equally important point to the above is that the west and east, or flood and 
ebb streams, continue running in the channel for 3 hours after the high 
and low water respectively, by the shore. There are some exceptions to 
this rule, 9A mentioned in Lomas and Gregory bays, close round St, Cathe* 
rine point, and at Spiteful anchorage. The wind also in the wide part 
outside and between the Narrows seems to have some influence, especially 
at neap tides, but for practical purposes 3 hours may be taken. 

The following table shows the times of high water, at the full and ohange 
of the moon, with the range in feet, from observations in 1 867-68. f 







Bi«e. 


Place. 


Mean Time. 






Springs. 


Neaps. 




a. M. 


Ft. 


Ft. 


Sarmiento bank, 8 miles E.S.E, of 








cape Virgins - * 


8.10 


36 to 42 




Dungeness . - - 


8.30 


36 to 44 


30 


Catherine point 


8.05 


80 




Possession bay . - - 


8.35 


36 to 42 




Under Direction hill 


8.53 


38 


23 


St. Jago bay . - - 


9.27 


20 


15 


Philip bay - , . 


9.29 


17 




Triton bank - - , 


9.00 


15 




Gregory bay . - - 


9.30 


21 


12 


Gracia point . - - 


10.17 


8 


7 


Oazy harbour - - , 


10.18 


7 


6 


Peckett harbour 


9.80 


7 


6 


Elizabeth island or Royal road - 


9.47 


8 




Laredo bay - - . 


11.00 


7 




Sandy point - - « 


12.00 


5 


4 



♦ By taking adyantage of this difierence ta the time of the tide, H.M.S. Zealous, in 
March 1867, left Possession bay at 7 turn, and reached Sandy point at 5 p.m., though 
during part of the day it was very thick, with rain and a strong S.W. wind. 

t It is probable that the direction and force of the wind cause slight variations in 
these times. 

t The times of high water at Peekett harbour and Elizabeth island are evidendy 
t^fiected by local causes. 



CHIP. I.] TIDES. 27 

To the northward of cape Yirgms, the flood stream sets N.W., along 
the coasty and the ebb S.W. ; the same will be found on the outer edge 
and outside the Sarmiento bank. The flood appears to sweep up the 
eastern shore of Tierra del Fuego to the south end of the Sarmiento bank, 
where it divides, one stream running into the strait, while the other 
continues northward along the outer edge of the baz^Jk. * In the same 
way the ebb stream is met coming out of the strait, and turned to the 
southward, by the tide sweeping down the coast to the S.W., and across 
the entrance in the same direction. The seamen must not be deceived by 
this, which makes the flood stream on the north end of the bank appear 
to run out of the strait, whilst towards the south end it varies with the 
time of tide. 

Thus it wiU be seen that in the vicinity of capes Virgins and Espiritu 
Santo, it is high water, full and change, between 8h. SOm. and 9h. a.m. 
whilst the stream of flood is still running to the westward into the strait, 
and to the northwaini past cape Virgins. The main stream continues 
running to the westward until near noon, though the water is falling every- 
where. About noon the direction of the stream changes, (there being no 
appreciable slack water in the channel,) and until near 3h. r.M. the water 
continues falling, while the stream of tide (ebb) is running to the eastward 
until after 6 o'clock.' 

Thus it is easy to deduce the best time for entering the strait, or 
quitting Dungeness or Possession bay, the object being to get well up 
towards the Narrows on the last of the ebb, so as to get the full force of 
the Narrows stream as soon as it makes ; for there, as has been said, the 
wind, if from the westward, will very likely freshen. Care must be taken, 
however, to fix the vessel's position constantly, as the ebb stream will set 
her towards the Orange bank, as she approaches it. A ftiU-power vessel 
will have no difficulty in stemming the tide only, either east or west of 
the Narrows, though, in strong westerly winds, even such a vessel had 
better await the turn at Dungeness, as far as which the ebb tide will be 
the fair one in coming from the northward. 

A vessel with auxiliary steam power must, of course, be guided by 
circumstances. Through both Narrows the stream runs straight, but at 
each entrance the volume of water which has been pent up between such 
narrow walls naturally seeks to spread itself out, and consequently causes 
a strong set towards the banks on either side of the end towards which the 
tide is running, and a corresponding indraught at the other end. Thus a 
vessel, on opening either Narrows, wiU find herself set in to the northward 
or southward, according as she has come along the north or south side of 
the Narrows. If two vessels go westward, one along the north and the 
other the south side of the First narrows, as they come to Baxa and Barranca 



28 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — EASTERN PART. [ciiap. i. 

points, one will find herself set on to the Satellite patch, and the other on 
to the shoal of Baxa point. 

This is, of course, much more felt at the First than at the Second 
narrows, aa the tide is much stronger there ; and very little set will be 
found from Gracia point into Royal road. The navigator must not be 
alarmed hj the strong tide riplings, which will be seen in many places 
where no danger exists, especially at the west end of the First n^rrows^ 
off cape St. Vincent, in Lee bay, and between Elizabeth and Magdalena 
Islands, on both sides of the Walker shoal.* 

Though this affects the surface of the water, and, consequently, the 
vessels upon it, the mass of water seems to keep the main channel well 
scoured out, making the outer edges of the banks, or those on the side 
of the channel, steep to ; and seeming to indicate that^ though the 
precise depth of water on the shoalest parts of banks may vary, their 
general position and direction will not. Of course this does not refer to deep 
harbours, or bays where eddy tides may exist, or spits formed by rivers. 

BZBacTZOVS. — Sandy Point Bastward. — From sandy point eastward, 
a vessel should keep well out before hauling along the coast, so as to avoid 
the shoal water of the spit, and if intending to anchor in Laredo bay, a 
good berth should be given to its southern point. Bearing in mind that the 
change in the time of tide which, assists the westward bound ship acts 
against one eastward bound, though in some measure compensated for by 
the prevalence of westerly winds, it will sometimes be found advantageous 
to leave Sandy point in the afternoon or evening, and anchor for the 
night' in Laredo bay, so as to be ready to take advantage of the first of the 
ebb in the morning. This will, of course, depend oii the moon. At 
Flizabeth island it is high water, full and change, soon jafter 9h. 30m. a.m.^ 
and consequently the ebb stream would not commence running till 
12h. 30m. See Tides. 

During the summer months it is daylight between 2h. and 3h. A.M., 
and therefore a vessel weighing from Laredo bay at daylight would liave 
plenty of time to get to Gregory bay or farther, with a fair wind, before 
the turn of the tide at 6h. a.m., as there is little difference of time between 
Elizabeth island and Gregory bay. She can then anchor during the fiood, 
and weighing with the commencement of the ebb, which will begin to run 
at noon on the same day in the First narrows, she will get to Dungeness, 
or out to sea that night. 

Even in the short days much may be done by a judicious consideration 
of these all important tides, but it is evident that the seamen must be 



* One of these ripples off Elizabeth island was observed from H.M.S. Nassau, 
and thought to indicate a shoal, but on sounding in the middle of it, 50 fathoms was 
obtained. 



CHAP. I.] DIRECTIONS. 29 

guided by the age of the moon when on the spot. Though with a strong 
fair wind a vessel may, to a certain extent, defy the tides, it is always 
better, if possible, to avail oneself of them. After leaving Laredo bay, a 
berth of a mile should be given to cape Porpesse, and Sta. Marta kept 
open of the extreme of cape St. Vincent, until past the shoal water off 
the south-west end of Elizabeth island, then close the island and follow 
the trend of the shore at the distance of half to three-quarters of a mile, 
until Silvester point bears N.N.W., when steer for Gracia point, edging 
away for the Narrows as the Sta. Marta shoal is passed, or when from 
2 to 3 miles north of Elizabeth island. 

Then steer for the Narrows, keeping cape Gregory, the projecting 
extremity on the north side of the Narrows, which will soon be seen, open 
on the port bow, and the course (about N.E. ^ N.) leads right through. 
When abreast of the cape, a vessel intending to anchor in Gregoiy or St. 
Jago bays should steer northward, and when the north extremity of the 
sandy land of the cape is in line with the western extremity of the' high 
table land (Gregory shoulder) the vessel will be near the anchorage, but 
the Hummock should be well open to the northward of the cape, over the 
grassy valley, before anchoring. From this position Valle point and the 
hillocks near it, will bf> distinctly visible, and the vessel can be kept for the 
anchorage under it, or edged away to pass northward of the banks. 

A vessel, however, bound direct for the First narrows, from a mile off 
cape Gregory, should steer N.E. by E., which will lead southward of the 
Tribune and Triton banks. Advancing eastward, Sutlej and Dixon hills 
will be the first land seen, and in clear weather mount Aymond will also 
appear a little to the eastward of the former. The land forming the entrance 
of the Narrows, being low, will not be perceived until some time after Dixou 
hill, and others on the Fuegian side which appear as islands ; but, as it is 
closed, the summit of Barranca point and Nunez head on the north side, 
and Mendez point on the south will be seen. 

When Sutlej hill bears N.N.W., or Barranca cliff North, and Dixon hill 
E.N.E., the ship will be in inid-channel 4 miles from Barranca point, and 
thence a N.N.E. course will lead straight through the First narrows. Care 
must be taken to keep in mid-channel till Barranca point bears W. by N., 
as the ebb stream sets rather towards the Satellite patch, if a vessel gets 
to the westward. Nunez head shows as a triangular chff, and is a good 
mark. As Nunez head is approached. Direction hill and Orange peak will 
appear, and when abreast them cape Possession will be seen as an island on 
the starboard bow. 

When Direction hill bears W. by N., and Orange peak S.S.E. ^ E.,. 
(mount Aymond, if visible, bearing N.W. by N.) steer N.E. for cape 
Possession for 9 miles, until mount Aymond bears W.N.W., when an 



80 MAGELLAN STBAIT. — EASTERN PABT. [oH4p. i. 

E. bj N. course clears the strait. Should it be intended to anchor in 
Possession bay, a N.N.E. ^ E. course may be steered from the Narrows, 
instead of N.E., until mount Aymond bears W.N.W., when steer into the bay, 
obserying to keep Daniel point open of cape Possession until the moment of 
doing so. The same regard must be had to tides in crossing the Sarmiento 
bank as when entering the strait. 

BunffoiieM to ftaredo Bay. — ^Though, as before stated, it would be ex- 
tremely hazardous for square-rigged vessels of any size to attempt the 
passage of the strait to the westward, there seems nothing to prevent 
schooners and other small vessels from doing it. A few remarks are, there- 
fore, appended to assist them: — 

A vessel working up from Dungeness is advised to beat along the north 
shore with N.W. or westerly winds, taking care not to bring the white 
sand patch (eastward of cape Possession) to bear westward of W. by N. 
when in the vicinity of Wallis shoal. By keeping on this side until well 
westward of cape Possession she will have a leading wind through the 
First narrows, and if the wind shifts to S.W. she will probably be able to 
fetch Schooner anchorage, where a small vessel will be quite safe and out 
of the tide. With the wind from S.W. stand well over to the Lomas bank, 
and then with a rising tide a good stretch can be mtfte across the Orange 
bank to Plumper anchorage, or if she fetches to windward of that, another 
tack will take her to Schooner anchorage. 

The first slant of wind, or calm with the tide, should be taken advantage 
of to clear the Narrows, after which the passage is easy. Between the 
Narrows the Triton bank is (after passing the Satellite patch) the only 
danger which would bring a small vessel up ; and for this it is only 
necessary to take care not to bring Gregory shoulder to bear southward of 
W. by S., or the summit of cape Gregory southward of W.S.W. when 
in its neighbourhood, or while Grap peak, if visible, bears between S.E. 
and S.E. ^ E. 

In the Second narrows, when standing to the northward, the vessel 
should not pass inside a line joining cape Gregory and Gracia point, and 
with a S,W. wind and flood tide, cape St. Vincent should not be passed 
within 2 miles, even when it is intended to pass through the New channel 

To pass through the Queen channel, a good stretch should be made into 
Royal road, until the north-east point of Elizabeth island bears about South, 
when keep away round it. 

With a light c»r failing wind, it is very important to keep towards the 
north shore of the Second narrows as its western end is approached, and 
rather to anchor in Royal road, or even on the edge of the bank ofP 
Gracia point, than to try to pass Sta. Maria island without a commanding 
breeze. 



CHAP. I.] DIEBCTIOKS.— WINDS. 31 

After passing the north end of Elizabeth island, Sta. Marta should not 
be opened to the northward of cape St. Vincent until past Hawk cUfP. A 
small vessel may drop an anchor in the bight between Silvester point 
and Hawk cliff ,to save losing ground. If bound to Laredo bay cape 
Negro should be rounded as close as prudence admits, on account of the 
ledge on the south shore of the bay. {See page 22.) 

WZMis. — Westerly winds are the most prevalent throughout the year, 
and at the eastern end of the strait, there is generally a strong breeze with 
heavy squalls between N. W. and S. W. A cloudy overcast sky, and probably 
rain, whilst the wind is northward of west ; and usually clear bright weather, 
with the sun out, when the wind draws southward of west. The general 
course of the wind seems to commence at N.E. or North, with misty weather 
or rain, veering quickly to N.W. and freshening while the barometer fidls. 
Between North and West it frequently remains two or three days, the 
weather clearing when it inclines to West, and mist or rain increasing and 
the barometer falling when it inclines northward ; with this wind a decided 
rise in the barometer is a sure sign of a shift to S.W., which shift in- 
variably takes place before the wind lulls for any time or fine weather can 
be expected. 

In summer the wind generally dies away from the S.W., but after uncer- 
tain durations from that quarter, and before the North or N.W. wind be^ns 
again, an hour or so of light easterly or north-easterly wind will probably be 
roistered, showing that the wind has gone round the right way, through 
the eouth-eastem quarter. Later in the season, or as winter advances, the 
S.E. wind becomes more prevalent, and instead of the wind dying away at 
S.W. it will frequently vary between S.S.W. and S.E. for two or three days, 
sending a heavy swell into Possession bay. Sometimes it continues round 
to East or N.E., still blowing hard, and with wet gloomy weather, not pre- 
ceded by the interval of fine weather, experienced on the coast before a gale 
comes on from the eastward. 

This veering round is, however, like the easterly gales on the coast, 
of rare occurrence. As a rule the wind will be found stronger from the 
S.W. and the squalls heavier than from N.W., and no certain warning is 
given of this shift. Sometimes the barometer precedes it, but more generally 
Moompanies it. Sometimes heavy banks of white cumulus clouds, having 
hATd edges and appearing very rounded and solid, will be seen rising from 
the S.W. or Southward, but this is more frequently the case when a S.W. 
wind is about to spring up from a cahn or Ught air, than as indicative of a 
gale shifting to S.W. or South. 

The backing of the wind from S.W. to N«W. ia alwaya accompanied by a 
Mling barometer, or its ceasing to rise, as it does during the whole time it 
blows from S.W. The change of wind, however, usually accompanies the 



32 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — EASTERN PART. [chap. i. 

change in tlie barometer, and the mercury merely ceasing to rise may 
indicate the S.W. wind subsiding. If the wind backs from North to N.E. 
the same dirty weather may be expected that is mentioned as usual when It 
draws round to the East from the southward, and generally the seamen may 
be prepared for bad weather when the wind backs, even though the 
barometer does not fall. 

Northerly winds are often preceded by low flying clouds, with a thickly 
overcast sky, in which the upper clouds appear at a great height. The 
sun shows dimly through them with a reddish appearance^ and with its 
edges so indistinct, that it is impossible to take an altitude, often for hours 
before a gale comes on. Sometimes, but very rarely, with the wind light 
between N.N.E. and N.N.W., a few days fine weather may occur ; each day 
of this must be grate:^lly received as it comes, for it cannot be predicted, 
and occurs sometimes with a high and at other times with a low barometer.* 

Easterly wmds are certainly more common, and the strait is on the whole 
less windy in winter (June, July, and August) than in summer, but when 
against this possible advantage is placed the cold, with the long nights and 
short days, this season is not likely to be preferred by the mariner in a 
vessel bound westward. Though beyond the limits of this chapter, it may 
be well to mention that ships getting as far as cape Froward with a S.W. 
wind, will generally find it N.W. on rounding the cape, as the wind follows 
the direction of the channel. 



aajtOKHTSB. — ^Captain King, after remaining nearly a year in port 
Famine, and a considerable time in the eastern pai*t of MageUan strait, came 
to the conclusion that the barometer could not be considered so un&iling a 
guide as in the lower and middle latitudes, and that " although the rise and 
fall does sometimes precede the change, yet it more frequently accompanies 
it." After two seasons' careful observation, the writer coincides in this 
opinion, as far as the actual strait itself is concerned. It is probable that 
the difference of opinion expressed by Captains King and Fitzroy on the 
subject is to be attributed to the former having made the greater part of 
his observations in the strait, while those of the latter were made on the 
outer coast of Tierra del Fuego or Patagonia, free from the local influences 
of the Narrow channels. 

It has already been said, when speaking of the shift of wind from 
N.W. to S.W., that the barometer invariably rises with it, and the only 
rule which we can give as at all settled, is that a rising barometer precedes 
or accompanies a shift of wind from N.W. or West to S.W., and that 



* In December 1867, the Nassau had several days of beautiful weather, vith the 
barometer between 29-06 and 29 '50, and then after a few days blow from S.W. another 
interval of fine cahn weather with the barometer ranging fix)m 30* 10 to 29* 99. 



CHAP. I.] 



BAROMETER* 



33 



generally if the mercury faUs while it is blowing from S.W., the wind will 
back to N.W. again ; but in both these (^es^nine times out often, the two 
events v^U occur simultaneously. A table has been constructed from the 
Meteorological journals of H.M.S. Nassau, kept during nearly 10 months 
spent between Sandy point, and cape Virgins in 1867-8, some being in 
corresponding months of the different years, in the hope of being able to 
draw some practical conclusions from it, but in vain. 

The study might interest a scientific person, but, with the ezoeption of 
that given above, no rule useftd to the seamen navigating the strait could 
be found. It may be added that a Meteorological journal very carefully 
kept by Sr. Jorge C. Schythe during nine years' governorship at Sandy 
point, has been examined with a like result. Captain King, after stating, 
that after a fall of barometer with N.W. or northerly winds, a S.W. gale 
may be expected when it ceases to faU, adds " it frequently however falls 
without this change. In the month of June at port Famine the barometer 
fell to 28*17 and afterwards gradually rose to 30*5, which was followed 
by cold weather, in which the thermometer stood at 12° Fahrenheit." 

It has been already remarked, when speaking of winds, that some of our 
£nest weather occurred with a very low barometer, and it may be added 
that frequently the barometer has fallen so as to lead one to expect and 
prepare for a gale when nothing has come of it. It would be interesting 
to know whether anything occurred off cape Horn to account for such 
changes, or in the open sea at either end of the strait, from which the high 
land and tortuous channels sheltered us.* 

Captain King gives the following table of mean temperature and pressure 
of the atmosphere at port Famine in 1828. 







• 


Temperature. 










1828. 


Fahr. 


Barometer. 






February 


. « a • a 


5M 


29-40 






March 


. - - - 


49-4 


29-64 






April 


- - - 


41-2 


29-57 






May 


- - - - 


35-5 


29-30 






June 


. . - . 


32-9 


29-28 






July 


.... 


33-0 


29-37 






August 


•"•*■"* 


33-2 


29-28 





* The opinion of the late Admiral Fltzroy respecting the barometer wHl be found at 
page 136, Fart II. of the South America Pilot, sixth edition. As already stated, it 
refers to the open coast, and has only been adopted here when it agreed with Captain 
Mayne's obserrations. The Admiral spent but a short time in the Eastern entrance of 
the strait. 

26634. C 



84 



MAGELLAN STRAIT. — ^BASTBRK PAET. 



[cbaf. I. 



The sam« eletleiitfl taken itorA the observatiotul of the Qotdtnor ti Sandj 
point abOye mentioned would giye :-* 





No. of Years. 


Thermometer. 


No. of Years. 




Moiitlig. 








Barometer. 




Meati. 


JTahr. 


MeaiL 




January 


d 


54-8 


4 


29-55 


February - 


9 


54-4 


4 


2963 


Mafoh 


10 


48-05 


4 


29-62 


April 


8 


44-10 


4 


29-53 


May - - - 


8 


40-40 


4 


29-61 


June « fc - 


8 


35*40 


4 


29*62 


July • « « 


? 


35*40 


d 


29-64 


August 


7 


37-40 


3 


29-66 


September - 


7 


42-40 


4 


29-60 


October 


9 


47-30 


4 


29-70 


Noyefflber - 


9 


50-70 


4 


29*54 


December «• « 


9 


53-20 


4 


29-60 



In coming touthward from the tropics the gradual lowering of the 
mercurial column must not be forgotten* It has been estimated that A 
^fference of half an imk exists between the mean in the tropics ttnd that 
m the latitude of the sti-ait.* 

The following obseryations mAde in 1867 Mem to show that this is 
equidly true for the strait itself.f 



Month. 


Mean Barometer 

observed 
at Bio de Janeiro* 


Mean Barometer 

observed 
at Sandy ^omt 


Cifference. 


July - 
August 
September - 


30-243 
30-147 
30-137 


29-256 
29*530 
29-808 

Mean 


•987 
•617 
•329 

-644 



BMAAOIKtUM — f'or making ihe passage from east to west round the Horn, 
Captain £lng was of opinion that the winter season is the most fayou^able,{ 
and considers the fire^U^cy Of easterly and northerly winds at that eleason, 
a set off. figainst the long mghts with the chances of decks dOYered with 
snow and ropes frozen stiff. Whicheyer may be preferred for a toiling 

* M&ury'S ttysidal G^ogfaphy of the Sea ; Eleyeiith Edition, p. W, Art. 633. -See 
^6, l4th i^timher of Meteofological Observations, published by Board ot Trad«. 

f These obsertations are reduced to 32^ Fahrenheit. The mean ditference (ibUfii^d 
was '744. 

X South American Pilot, Fart II., p. 218. 



°BAx. I.] SEASONa. 36 

vessel ronndiiig the wpe, it hu alrsulf beea Rijd tbat fw a stsMBer in tho 
Magellui strait, with which alone we are now soncerBod, the summer is far 
preferable for going either wa^. 

Here, as eUewherei the eqniaootial months are the most wind^^ though 
the heaviest gales do Dot always ooour at the equinoxes. March is ver^ 
beiBtemus, and its galei are usually ftdlowed hj soma fins calm weather in 
April and May. Towards the middle of Ma^ the weather becomes sensibly 
colder, and the snow, which has been oovering the summits of the hitls 
perhaps for some time, will be obserred to advance down the slopes ; it, 
however> valiea greatly. In MardL 1867 the western mountains were 
aovered with snow, and the first &U of snow at the east end was on 
1st April. In March 1868 there was much less snow on the western 
mountuns, and none reached the level of the water until April 19th. 

The coldest weather is in Jane, July, and Angost j a mean of six years 
observations gives June as the coldest month four times, July once, August 
once.* Even in these winter months, however, though there are occasional 
cold days, the general temperature at Sandy point during June, July, and 
August, for sevei'al years, is about 36° Fahrenheit. With the advance of 
the vernal equinox the west winds increase again, and the equinoctial gales 
of September, like those of March, are usually succeeded by some fine 
weather in October and November. December, January, and February are 
the warmest, the mean temperature for several years for these months being 
64° ; the days are then long, there is some fine weather, and the* sun when 
out has some power. 

Westerly winds, however, which often increase t8 violent galea ; furious 
squalls in the western part, ftocompanied by much rain, are frequent even 
tbrtilighotit that Reason, which, is for as the mariner is concerned, carries 
with it less of summer than almost any part of the world. We say as fhr as 
the mariner is concerned, for to the eastward of Sandy point the weather on 
shore is very fine, though rather windy, during summer ; the temperature is 
pleasant^ the air bracing and beiJthy. Indeed, during our two seasons there, 
we hardly ever had more than one Or two men on the sick list, and those 
generally &om accidents, though their work was hard, tifid the tueU tuuch 
exposed, camping out, and constantly getting wetted through with saltwater. 
The change between this and the western part of the strait and the northern 
channels is very marked in this respect. In these latter there were always 
eight or ten on the Nassau's sick list with colds, bronchitis, and rheumatism. 
It would seem that Admiral Fitzroy was unfortunate m having seen the 
son so rarely while in those waters, for he saysf " that to endeavour to 

* Jonmala of Sefinr Scbjthe, and E.U.S. Ntuaau. 
t Sooth America Pilot, Fut H, page 135. 



36 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — ^EASTERN PART. [chap. i. 

rate chronometers by equfd altitudes would be a fruitless waste of time, in 
any other months than April, May, and June." In 1866-67-68, equal 
altitudes were frequently observed in November, December, Januaiy, and 
February, and in fact during all the summer months, at Sandy point, 
Dungeness, Direction hill, and Gregory bay. At Sandy point indeed we 
hardly ever experienced any difficulty or delay in obtaining equal altitudes 
until June, when the sun was so low as to be available for a comparatively 
short time only on either side of noon. 

We think vessels would generally be able to rate their chronometers at 
Sandy point ; farther westward it would be more difficult, though equal 
altitudes of the sun were obtained at Sholl, and Halt bays, and Island 
harbour in March and April 1868. 

FOGS are of rare occurrence and short duration in the eastern part of 
the strait, though occasionally they set in very thick for a few hours, and 
with no warning during calm weather. Dense fogs have, however, been 
known to last two or three days at Sandy point in the winter months. 
Thick rainy weather is the ordinary condition of the western part. 

SQirA&&8 blow with great force and suddenness all over the strait, 
making boat work very dangerous, and rendering it inadvisable to set 
light sails even when the weather seems most promising. No boat should 
be sent to any distance from the ship in any part of the strait without two 
or three 4^ys' provisions on board ; and if at the eastern end, water and 
fire- wood also.* 

TBimBiat and XiXOBTNZsra are very rare, indeed scarcely knovni, 
except in very bad weather, when violent squalls come fhom the south and 
south-west, usually giving warning of theu' approach by masses of clouds. 

These storms are rendered more formidable by snow and hail of a large 
size. 



* On several occasions when east of the Second narrows, the Nassau's boats left 
in fine weather, intending to return to the ship in an hour or two. Within half an hour 
of their leaving they have had to run for the' shore, and on more than one occasion 
were swamped in beaching. 



37 



CHAPTER II. 



MAGELLAN STRAIT. — SANDY POINT WESTWARD, 



Vabiation in 1871. 

Second Narrows - - 21° 15' B. 

CapeFroward - 22*'15'E. | Western entrance - 23"^ 35' E. 



—In clear weather, long before Sandy point is 
reached, indeed before a vessel gets through the Second narrows, the high 
mountains on Dawson islands and mount San Felipe will be seen forming 
an apparent barrier blocking up the passage, and over the latter the summit 
of mount Tarn stands out in bold relief against the sky, forming a mark to 
guide the mariner through the Broad reach. 

The view presented by these mountains from the anchorage off Sandy point 
is a magnificent one, and the spectator feels as if he were entering upon a 
totally new description of country from that passed in coming from cape 
Virgins. To the southward of Sandy point, as far as St. Mary point, good 
anchorage may be had three-quarters of a mile from the shore, in 10 and 
12 fathoms, sand and shell over clay. At the edge of the kelp which fronts 
the shore are 5 and 6 fathoms, so that with the wind off shore a ship may 
anchor or sail along it very close to the coast by keeping outside the kelp. 

Squalls off* the land are very strong, so much so sometimes as almost to lay 
a ship on her beam ends, and these usually come on without any warning 
whatever ; it is therefore very imprudent to carry much sail, especially as 
cape San Isidro is approached. The quarter-boats, studding-sails and all 
light gear should be kept secure as for sea, because the wind for the moment 
blows with the fury of a hurricane. These squalls are known to sailors as 
Williwaws. 

v&assrWATBK HAT. — St. Mary point, 12^ miles southward of Sandy 
point, may be known by the land suddenly trending into Freshwater bay. 
It has also a high bank close to the beach, with two patches bare of trees. 
All the points to the northward are low and thickly wooded. As the bay 
opens, the bluff point at its southern extremity becomes visible. There is 



38 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — WESTERN PART. [chjlp.il 

also a remarkable round hill a short distance westward of the bay^ and a 
valley southward of it, through which a small river Mis into the sea. This 
bay (the Bahia de Bomay of the Spaniards) is now an off station of the 
Chilian settlement at Sandy point. There are three or four huts on the 
south side, where half-a-dozen soldiers live in charge of 300 or 400 head 
of cattle. The holding ground in this bay is good, but between such 
anchorages as Sandy point and port Famine it is not likely to be required. 

DZRBCTZOVS. — ^Bounding into Freshwater bay from the northward 
keep from three-quarters to half a mile from the coast in 10 or 12 fathoms, 
and having passed St. Mary point steer towards the bluff southern points 
of the bay, until the south beach under Centre mount bears W.N. W. when the 
vessel will be clear of the kelp. The whole extent of the north side of 
the bay is foul round the edge of the kelp, and though there may be a 
sufficiency of water, the vessel should keep in 6 or 7 fathoms. Having 
the mount bearing as above, steer for it, or a little southward of it, and 
anchor in 9 to 10 fathoms, sandy mud over clay, witb the extremity of St. 
Mary point, bearing N, J W., Centre mount (South pitch), W. by S. ^ S., 
and the entrance to the river S.W. by S. A good berth may be had 
much nearer the shore in 6 fiathoms, towards which the depth gradually 
increases. The anchorage is used merely as a stopping place, the deeper 
berth is the best. 

jBAVTA sxvA poziTT. — ^Between Freshwater bay {ind Sft^ta Aluia 
point the coast is bold, and too steep for any anchorage ^s^capt in thi 
bight formed by the reef off Rocky point ; but it is em^ and inQOP** 
venient to wdgh from, should the wind be southerly, jSapt^i Anna point 
extends far into the strait, and will be distinguished soon after passing 
Sandy point by a clump of trees at its extremity. This was the cemetery 
for the settlement of port Famine, and part of the ra^ilings and some 
vestiges of the graves are still visible. On approaching Santa Auna point 
the distant cape of San Isidro will be seen beyond it, but there can be no 
doubt or mistake iQ recognising it. Mount San Felipe is 3 miles to the 
northward of Santa Anna point, and stands 1,308 feet above the level of 
the sea. 

Arauoo »atcii» with 5 fatbomi water on it, lies S,£. by E. ^ £., 3^ cables 
off the extreme of Santa Anna point, 

Tiaes. — It has been said that after passing Elizabeth island the tides are 
of comparatively little consequence. Along the whole extfiint of cowit between 
Elizabeth island and cape Froward the flood runs to thQ southward, und 
the ebb to the northward, the time of high water fiill and change being 
12 o'clock. The strength of the tide is not great, but frequently with a 
southerly wind, there is in the offing a ^et to th^ northward quite indiq^ndont 



flHAP.n.] SANTA ANNA POINT.— EIVEB SEBaEB. 39 

of the tide. In winter the tides occasionally ris^ high, and ovopflow a 
eonsidwahle portion of the low land immediately behind the beach. 

vimT PAMZira, in which was the site of San Felipe, the old Spanish 
colony of Sarmiento, and since then the penal settlement of the Chilian 
Government, now removed to Sandy point, is an excellent anchorage 
on the south side of Santa Anna'^point. Landing may almost always be 
efibcted (except in easterly gales) on one side or the other of the port. The 
stem of the tree which marked the observatory spot of King and Fitzroy has 
disappeared, but its approximate position can be easily ascertained.* 

The river Sedger, which flows in the south part of the port, is fronted 
by a bar that dries at low water, but cipi be entered by boats ^t half tide, 
and i^ navigable for 3 or 4 miles, beyond which its beds are 30 filled up 
by stumps of trees that it is difficult to penetrate. The water is fresh at 
half a jnile aboye the entrpnce, but to ensure its being perfectly good it 
would be better to fijl the casks at low water. The low lands near the 
mouth of the river, as well as the beach of the ^rt, is covered with drift 
timber of large size, which was found v^ry useful i^nd serviceable fpr 
repaudng boats. 

This river was csjled by Sarmiento^ Rio de San Juan. Pecket, Sir J. 
Nfffborough's *^ ingenious lieutenant," cplls it " Segars river,'* and his boat 
is described as having ascended it for 9 miles, but was stopped from going 
farther by reason of the trunk timber, and shoalness of the water. Byron 
describes the river, which he calls the Sedger, in glowing terms, and gave 
rather a more flattering account of the timber growing at its bank than it 
deserves, but the fidlen trees rendered it impossible for him to go &rth^ up 
than 4 miles. 

A vessel entering port Famine should keep rather on the south side. A 
rock was reported by Admiral Mendez Nuflez when he went through the 
strait with the Spanish squadron in 1867, but though this was carefeilly 
searched for nothing can be found in the position given. Spanish rock was, 
however, found 3 cables off the low- water line, on the west side bearing 
S. W, i S. from point Santa Anna. 

Supplies^ — ^There is firewood in abundance on the beaches, and wells con- 
taining excellent fresh water were dug by the Adventure at the north-west 
extremity of the clear part of Santa Anna point, on the bank above the third 
or westernmost small shingle bay. The water of the river as well as the ponds, 
of which there are many on the flat shore of the westernmost side of the 
port, proved very good for present use, but did not keep in consequence of its 
flowing from an extensive mass of decomposed vegetable matter ; the water 



* See Admiralty Plan, Fort Famine No. 547 ; scale, m = 6 inches. 



40 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — ^WESTERN PART. [chap, ii 

■ 

from the wells, however^ drawn through the ground not only kept good, but 
was remarkably dear and well tasted. Although there is much well-seasoned 
timber to be found here, the proximity of the port to Sandy point makes it of 
*ittle value ; for at the settlement any quantity of wood, cut ready for burning, 
may be obtained at a low rate on application to the governor. 

The fishing here, as at all the ports in the strait, is very variable, depending 
not only on the state of the tide, but also on the direction of the wind. 
Usually, however, it is a very good place for hauling the seine, and the smelt 
which are the best fish of the strait, or, indeed, anywhere between Monte 
Video and Valparaiso, are very abundant and fine. Captain ConoUy remarks 
that in three hauls of the seine they caught enough excellent fish, chiefly bass, 
mullet, and remarkably fine smelt, to satisfy the whole crew of H.M.S. Sutlej* 
Ducks and geese, with occasional snipe or plover, will also be found here, 
but they are not so plentiful as in some of the other ports, indeed, though 
undoubtedly there are immense numbers of wild fowl all through the strait, 
the shooting is very precarious; sometimes we have been able to get a large 
number of birds in a very short time, but on other occasions when visiting 
the same place, not a bird was to be seen. 

Tides, — It is high water full and change in port Famine at 12 o'clock, and 
the rise at springs is 5^ feet, the ebb setting to the northward, and the flood 
to the southward ; the rise and fall is very irregular however, depending 
upon the prevalence of the wind, north-easterly and easterly winds causing 
high tides, whilst westerly and south-westerly winds have a contrary eflect. 

BZ&BCTZoars. — To enter port Famine with a leading wind, round Santa 
Anna point at a distance of 3 cables, so as to clear the Arauco patch ; 
but if under sail only, and the wind is scant, give the point a wider berth, 
on account of the eddy tide which sometimes sets towards it. Steer in 
towards the head of the bay for the summit of mount San Felipe, keeping 
it on over the rivulet, which will be distinguished by a small break in the 
trees on the north-west end of the clear bank on the southern side of the 
bay ; this bank being clear of trees and covered with grass is very 
conspicuous. Keep on this course until the mouth of the Sedger river is 
open, and taking care not to shut in the points of its entrance, anchor in 
from 9 to 7 fathoms, as convenient. 

At night time, under steam, a vessel will be able to feel her way into an 
anchorage after passing Santa Anna point, by steering a N.W. by W. 
course which leads straight up the middle of the port, and the anchor 
should be let go as soon as 14 or 15 fathoms are obtained. In the 
summer the best berth is towards the west side, in 9 fathoms, with 
cape Valentyn in line with Santa Anna point ; and in the winter 
in the centre of the bay. The strongest winds here, as well as else- 



CHAP, n.] PORT FAMINE. — EAGLE BAY. 41 

where in the strait, are from N.W. to S.W. ; it also blows hard sometimes 
from the south, and occasionally a &esh gale out of the yallej to the 
southward of San Felipe. Unless the ship is verj large or a long stay be 
meditated, single anchor will be quite sufficient, or moor with a kedge to the 
south-east. The ground, though best in the middle, is excellent all over the 
port, being stiff tenacious clay, in some places overlaid by sand. 

VOCB8 BAT, immediately to the . southward of port Famine, has 
anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms off Second river, bat the shelter is not so 
good as in port Famine, and it would only be used when several vessels 
were in company. Second river, which has a shoal entrance, comes from some 
distance up the valley. Between this bay and Tree point the water is too 
deep for anchorage, even close to the beach. Under San Isidro on the 
N.E. side there is anchorage in 9 to 10 fathoms, which might be very useful 
to a vessel of small power, unable to make headway against the violent squalls 
which sometimes come around the cape ; or for any ship running into a fog, 
which sometimes, though rarely, is experienced in this locality. 

CAPB BJkM X8IB&0 has a low but conspicuous rounded hillock, 
covered with trees at its extremity, and forms the termination of a ridge the 
summit of which is mount Tarn, the most conspicuous mountain near that 
part of the strait on the north side. A rocky patch, covered with kelp, stretches 
2 cables off the cape, with a rock at its outer end awash at high water. 

Mount Tarn, as has been said, is readily distinguished from abreast 
Elizabeth island 50 miles to the northward, whence it appears to be the most 
projecting part of the continental shore. When viewed from the northward 
its shape is peaked, and during the summer it has generally some patches of 
snow a little below its summit, but in the winter months its sides are covered 
with snow for two-thirds down. From abreast and to the southward of 
port Famine it appears saddle-shaped ; its summit is really a sharp ridge, 
extending nearly a mile !N.W. and S.E., with a precipitous descent on the 
N.E., and a steep slope on the S.W. sides. The highest part near its 
north-east end is 2,602 feet above the sea by barometric measurement.* 

From cape San Isidro the coast trends S.W. by S. about 7 miles to 
Glascott point, there being in the intervening shore several small bays in 
which a vessel may find anchorage. 

BAOUi HAT. — On the south side of cape San Isidro is a recess of three* 
quarters of a mile, with anchorage at its head in from 10 to 12 fathoms, but 
it is useful only for a small vessel, steadied by warps to the shore. The 
squalls or williwaws at times are very violent. A small reef runs out a 
cable from the south-west point of the oay, and on it there is an islet. Two 
streams fiEdl into the bay, but the water, being very much impregnated 

♦ Fitzroy. 



42 MAGELLAN STHAIT. — ^WBflTBBW PAET. [eni*. n. 

with decomposed vegetable matter, cannot be preserved long. The woods 
here abound with winter bark ; there are many large trees. 

ouv and ZITBZAV BATS. — Gun bay, the next to the south-westward, 
although small, affords anchorage for a single vessel near the shore at its 
south-west part, in firom 8 to 9 &thoms. Two rivulets discharge themselves 
into it, from which water is easily procured. The bottom is a stiff clay. A 
round hill of moderate elevation and thickly wooded separates it from 
Indian bay, the points of which bear 6.W. and N.E., and are m^*e than 
1^ miles apart. 

From the east point the shore trends to the westward, and then curves 
round towards an islet covered with trees, between which and the shore 
there is only a boat passage. A rock about 12 feet high lies to the south- 
east of the islet, and on either side q& it there is an anchorage sufficiently 
sheltered from the prevailing winds on a good bottoni> nnd in t to 9 
fathoms. 

The near side of Indian bay is ihoal, caused probably by the alluvial 
deposit from tbe stream pearly in the centre. A p^tch of kelp prqjects 
from the pouth*efi«t point 3 cables, but carries 9 ftthoms over \\» irnddter 
Neither Gun, or Indian bays are noticed in Cordova's description of the 
strait, although they are quite as good as any in the neighbourhood for 
stopping places. 

BOVOMJLOB Mid SOVmvAVB BATB-^Bouchage bay is small, and the 
water very deep, except near the head of the bay, where anchorage may be 
obtained in 6 fiarthoms, clay ; it is separated from Boumand bay by eap^ 
Remarquable, which has a precipitous round-topped bluff projection, wooded 
to the summit. At 8 cables from the cape no bottom was found with 
30 &th£mis of line, but at a distance of fiO yards the d^th was 20 &thoma. 

Boumand bay is more convmiient than its northern neighbour, being 
somewhat sheltered from the sonthwly winds by Na4sau island, and there 
being a rivulet of good water at the south-west enii of the stony beach, 
ojQT which there is good anchorage in 6 &thom8, stiff inud. 

BOiroAzmrz&&B bat, or rather Cove (called Jack harbour by the 
sealers), forms a basin almost as snug as a wet dock, in which a vessel might 
careen with perfect safety ; from its small size, great depth of water, and 
equal height of the land, it is rather difficult of access, but a vessel may 
anchor in 12 fathoms and steady herself by warps to the trees al(»ig the 
sides of the cove. It is completely sheltered from all winds, and timber 
may be readily cut down and easily embarked } it was here that Mons. de 
Bougainville cut timber for the French colony on the Falkland islands. A 
rivulet at the head of the cove affisrds moderate supply of water, and if more 
be required the neighbouring bays will afford an abundance. 



OHAF. II.] GUN AND INDIAN BATS. — SAN NICOLAS BAT. 43 



lies half a mile- S.8.E. from Boogainyille oove. 
Unleii dose to the shore, Xassq^u ohaanel, between the island and the main, 
eannot be seen, but the island will be known by its terminating in a point of 
needle-shaped rocks. It is now coyered with trees, but evidently of young 
growth. San Brigida point at the southern extremity of the island (pointed 
rpckg with brushwood) when rounding cape San Isidro makes sa a small 
i3laod| and is the outermost point between it mi cape Froward. In the 
Naa@au channel the least water is 7 &thoms, oyer stiff olay bottmn, gradually 
deepening on each side ; but being narrow, and the tides very irregular, 
there is little or no advantage to be gained by going through iti 

•AW irioo&AS BAT, SO Called by Oordoya in 1788, was the Baye 
Fran^oise of De G^nes cm his yoyage through in 1696.^ It is not only 
of larger sixe than any of the bays south of Ban Isidro, but affords the best 
anohorage between that point and cape Froward, both from its being more 
easily entered and quitted, and from its moderate depth of water and extent 
of anohorage ground. It is also well sheltered from the prevalent winds 
between north and south*west. A large vessel going westward will do well 
to stop bore, unless she has a very good chance of reaching Portescue bay 
(38 miles further oq) before dark.f 

pearly in the centre of the bay 3tands Sanchez island, a small islet 
covered with trees, between which and the ^borq there is a passage of 
7 ferthpms. The shore is fronted for its whole length by a shoal bank, which 
much reduce the apparent extent of the bay* This bank stretches off to a 
distance of a quarter of a mile from the shore, its edge is steep-tOs and is 
generally distinguished by a ripple, which, with a moderate breeze, begins 
to break at half tide, At the head of the bay is De Crennes river, 100 yards 
across, and apparently flowing in a winding direction bova a long distance 
up the valley. From its entrance being fronted by a shoal or bank, which 
is constantly ^hifting, and from the quantity of drift timber ftbout it, it is 
not a good place for procuring water. 

The Beagle anchored in this bay 3 cables north-east of Sanchez island, in 
12 fathoms, pebbly bottom ; but the best aoehorage {ov a large ship is about 
midway between Glascott point and Sanchez island i that for a small vessel 
somewhat farther in, the bottom is mud or clay, and in 9 ^thomsy elay, a 
ship would be sheltered from all westerly windSt Vessels eoming in under 
sail are recommended by Captain Stokes to keep good sail upon them in 
order to shoot into a good berth, on account pf the high land of Nieola« 
peak, which becalms, and to avoid the drift of the stream out of the 
river, which would set a vessel over tP the eastern side pf the bay. It is 



■"*»- 



* See Barney's Voyages, vol. 4, chap. 841. 

t See Admiralty Plan, San Nicholas Bay, No. 547. 



44 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — ^WESTBRN PART. [chaf. n. 

not, however, probable that the stream of the river would affect a vessel 
between the islet and the^point. Li selecting an anchorage care is necessary 
not to rim in too far and £all upon the bank ; but unless the south-west side 
is hugged very close, a vessel will be quite safe, as long as the outer extreme 
of Sanchez island is not brought to the eastward of N.E. by E. 

CUASCOTT POZMTT, the southem boundary of San Nicolas bay, is 
the extreme of a high range of hills which run back for some distance ; 
on its summit are several sharp points, Nicolas peak being the most con- 
spicuous. Prom Glascott point the coast pursues a nearly straight line to 
cape Froward, a distance of 7 miles, the land at the back continuing 
mountainous and woody. The point formed by a beach of shingle, covered 
with trees to within 20 yards of the water's edge, and distant nearly 3 miles 
from cape Froward, is the only projection. Between this point and the 
entrance of a rivulet, which waters the only valley in this space, there is 
an anchorage half a mile from the shore in 11 ^eithoms, which might be 
occupied during a westerly wind ; but with the wind more southerly it 
would be too much exposed to be safe. The Beagle anchored there 2 cables 
off the sandy beach in the above depth. 

CAPB FSO'WASB, the southern extremity of the continent of Southern 
America, is in lat. 50° 45' S., and long. 71** 18' 15" W. ; it rises abruptly 
from the sea, and at its base stands a small rock, on which Bougainville 
landed, as did also Lieutenant Graves, for the purpose of obtaining angles 
and bearings. The hill which rises immediately above the cape was called 
by Sarmiento the Morode San Aguedo. 

It is high water, full and change at 1 hour ; the ebb tide sets to the 
northward and the flood to the southward, but not with much strength. 
With strong westerly gales there is much difficulty in rounding cape 
Froward from the eastward j the best time is about sunset. 

At cape Froward, as a rule, the weather changes as suddenly as the 
scenery, for though at times one may come to the westward with clear fine 
weather, it is by no means usual. K on the eastern side of the cape, the 
wind has been from the south-west, it will be frequently found from the 
north-west or down Froward reach as soon -as the cape is opened. The 
clear bright sky of the eastern reaches gives place to a dull murky leaden 
one ; the temperature becomes sensibly lower ; squalls or williwaws of great 
violence come rushing down from the mountains overhead, and the navigator 
may consider himself fortunate if they do not bring with them heavy rain, 
sleet, hail, or snow. 

No better description can be given of the usual weather off this cape 
than that of Cordova in his last voyage. He passed in December 1788 
(midsummer, be it remembered), and says they weighed from cape San 



CHAP. II.] CAPE FROWARD. — ^USELESS BAY. 46 

Isidro at 3 a.m. with a light north-east wind, which was gradually 
freshening, " but within a mile south of cape Forward (Froward) ♦ it 
fell suddenly calm, and we began to experience a succession of terrific 
squaUs, which commenced without any notice, and calms of very short 
duration ; some gusts were from north, some from north-west, and others 
from north-north-west, and their violence was such that it would have 
been dangerous to a vessel not well built, and even to her if her masts 
and yards were not very good. 

The furious wind which came through the openings of the mountains 
acquired the most formidable increase of force from the concurrence of 
three powerfiil causes. Firstly, the compression it undergoes in the narrow 
gorges which separate the mountains, and augment considerably at its force 
and density (resorte y densidad, but resorte is not easily rendered into 
English in the sense he uses it). Secondly, the snows which condense 
it with their cold ; and thirdly, the infinity of deflections (reflexiones) 
which it must necessarily take along a coast varied and irregular, and 
produce an amount of movement which, united to that of the regular 
wind and the two other causes mentioned, give it a force extraordinary 
and above all conception. The direction also was changed by the 
deflection (reflexiones) in a very remarkable maimer, for at the point 
of the cape it was felt with such force and inclination to the horizon 
that it held suspended in the air large columns of water, which moved 
along in the form of mist with such velocity that the wind never 
preceded them ; and this phenomenon, as regular as novel, was a beneficent 
warning, announcing beforehand the direction of each squall, and serving 
perhaps to enable us to avoid some great catastrophe." f 

The 80 years that have passed since this was written have wrought no 
change in this respect on cape Froward. Generally, however, there is 
a lull towards sunset, and therefore a vessel met by strong west winds in 
the daytime should get into San Nicolas bay or in cape Isidro ; try to 
pass cape Froward in the evening, and if not desirous of going on, get to 
Woods or Fortescue bay that night. 

After passing cape Froward, which is nearly in the centre of Magellan 
strait, the channel trends to the N.W., and the northern shore should be 
kept aboard at least until cape Gallant is passed ; but before proceeding on 
to the westward it would be well to allude to one or two places on the 
Terra del Fuegian side. 

VBS&SSB BAT, to the southward of cape Boqueron, was supposed to 
afford a small sheltered anchorage under a hill called Nose peak, but it does 

* Having been unable to ascertain when this cape was changed from Forward to 
Froward, I have retained the spelling of King and Fitzroy. E. C. M. 
t Ultima yiage de la Fragata Santa Maria de la Cabeza. Appendix, page 30. 



46 MAaELLAN BTBAIT.^^WESTBBK PAKT. [ohat. ii. 

BOt appear that the Beagle herself ever aiM^ored there, and the norihdrii 
shore affords no Bhelter< 

The termination of the flat table ridge extending to the N.E* from cApe 
Boqueron is abrupt and very precipitous. This ridge has already been 
mentioned as having cape Espiritu Banto for its eastern extremitj. 

STAVltrfiSi — From tlie eastern end of the strait thus far on both sides 
the guanaco is plentiful, and as no catioes are to be found, it may be pre- 
sumed that the Indians are more dependent on hunting than fishing for 
their subsistence. Their fires are usually seen some distance inland, and 
the bows and arrows obtained from them seem to betoken a sport of this 
kind, for the arrow heads were both poisoned and unpoisoned, and it is 
improbable that they would waste the latter upon their enemies. West- 
ward of cape Froward, no guanacos were ever seen, and all the Indians 
met with, appeared to live in canoes. Deer, however, must be compara- 
tively plentiful, as deer skin clothing is more common than seal skin. 

From cape Froward westward, and all up the western channels to the 
gulf of Penas, the Indians appear to be of the same families, or at any rate 
of friendly relation on both sides of the strait. Indeed, the same faces 
were recognized in port G^ant, Fortune bay, and Messier channel. 
Usually very few of them will be seen by a vessel passing through the 
strait, but it is extraordinary how rapidly a himdred or more will gather 
together if they see an opportunity for attacking boats, small vessels, or 
a wrecked party. How the rendezvous was known is a mystery, but fires 
are seen smoking all along the coast for miles, and out of every creek a 
canoe will be seen shooting towards the rallying point. 

There is none of the graceful gliding of the North American or New 
Zealand canoe in these miserable boats. Instead of being propelled by paddles 
they are rowed by oars rudely made of some pieces of board tied on to the 
end of a pole* The canoes, also, instead of being hollowed out from the 
trunk of a large tree into a pretty shape, or made of bark, like those of Canada, 
are simply planks tied together with fibres, without the slightest regard to 
form. On the bottom in the middle is a small fire^ and on each side there 
will be found six or eight men, women, and children, according to the size 
of the boat. They are generally almost naked, the women appearing to 
care less about clothing than the men, though either will sell you any skin 
they have on for a little biscuit or tobacco. 

There is one striking difference between these people and the Pata-i 
gonians $ the t^atagonians will drink as much rum or oilier flre:i!!E&.ier as 
they can get, and when near the settlement are always more or less drunk. 
The western natives^ called Fuegiansi^ould never be induced to drink 
spirits, winoy or beer ; this difference was mentioned by Fitssroy in the 



dr^ 



OHAP.n.] NATIVBS.*— WOOD» BAY. 47 

Toyagd of the Adventure and Beagle^ and we on several occasions l^ied 
the western nai^ver ^illi ft Vluw ttrt^roving or disproring this statementt 
Thej we^ offered on different occatfiofis spirits of different kinds and wi&es 
of different kindSf but all i^r being tasted were put away With a Wrj faoe* 

sinro flAV, A miles West of cape FrdWard^ \i& ^dently A miittiomery 
b0ifig mef ely lb Slight hoUow id the OoAifi At thd (mtM 6f a sfllAU fHmlet, 
the deposits of whioh havd thfowii Up a b^k fi^itf thd lihofe^ OH which 
anchorage may be had in 8 or 9 fathoms. In t^ff fiild i^Ath^f a y^NMel 
might hold On here, if absolutely tieoeSSarji aad thd best anchograge is about 
half a mile £*S«E. Of the isllmd in 9 fathoms, sand. If bound w^sfward^ 
hoWdVer, going on to Woods ba/^ is recommendedi as ,it is only 8 iniles 
fartheri and affords muOh better shelter ; if bound eastward it is bettei" to 
round oape Frowardi m a ship iS not dependent on daylight for ent^ing 
either Sab Nldolaa bay os port Famine* Byrofi anchored in Snug bay in 
1765 in iheJDoIphin with oape Froward Ei ^^ S^ 6 mileSf the islet in the bay 
W. by H. half a ihileT^md the rirer ^. Wi by W. tlffee-quarters of a mUey 
having shoaled suddenly £1*099 17 to 9 fathoms. He desoribes it m hav^ 
ba^nlinsyhTi^ pttrpQtWj bttt it oertainly ottonot b# recommended as a good 
anchorage. 

caVM tt6ti£A*tf$ 13 miles westwafd of Cape Fi^owafd, is bold and high^ 
and although projecting but slightly, is a very conspleubtla heftdland | it is 
precipitous, and descends td the seft lii Steps plentifhlly Covered with smAll 
trees And shrubs. 

There is a strong tide 6ff the Cape, ftnd it should not be 6losed too 
miich in passing. There is sheltef ed anchordge from llorth-Westetly winds^ 
3 or 4 cables off it, with the extreme, bearing about West. 

WooAd ttAlf.-^The bay lyOllvlQr of Oliver Van Noort hi 1699^ aud 
the Bahia de Solano of the Spaniards, is tindei' the lee Of Cape Hollandj 
and is a conveniefit stoppuig place for ships. Small vessels may enter 
the cove by skirting and luffing found the edge of the kelp, which extends 
about a cable's length off the extreme of the cape, and in which there is 
a took with only 4 feet of watef upon It. The best anchorage foi* a lafge 
ship IS that mentioned above, with the eape bearing West.* 

When the tide fa running to the eastward a long vessel would hate Some 
difficulty iu backing out of the cove, mA very likely groufld on Boxef 
spit. The water outside Is not SO deep either m the cove, the aachorago 

recommended being iH 8 tO 10 Ot 11 ftthomS, While inside 17 Ot 18 will be 
found. If it is decided to go inside, steer for the gap or low land behitld 
the cape, and as the south point is neared keep midway between it and the 



bAUdibi._«aiaib.B__bkad>iUa 



♦ See Admiralty Plan of Woods bay, No. 645f ; scale, m = 6 iflcliel. 



48 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — WESTERN PART. [chap. u. 

river's mouth ; or for a leading mark keep a hillock with a conspicuous 
dump of trees on it, at the inner end of the bay, on with a remarkable 
peak, one or 2 miles behind, bearing N.W., and anchor in 17 or 18 fathoms. 
The bank on the north-east side shoals suddenly, and must be avoided. 
The seine was not tried here, but it looked a likely place for fish. 

Near cape Coventry and in Andrews bay the anchor may be dropped 
in fine weather, but there is no shelter to the westward of the former ; 
about half a mile off 13 fathoms will be found. 

• COBSXB BAT,. 12 milcs westward of Woods bay, may be known by a 
small, bright green islet, called Mussel island, which lies in the entrance, and 
also by a hill to the northward, with three hummocks about 1,357 feet 
high, called mount Three Peaks, and standing detached from the sur- 
rounding hills at the head of the bay. The western entrance between the 
west point and the reef of Mussel island is two-thirds of a mile wide ; from 
it the bay continues a mile, but is much contracted by shoals covered 
with kelp ; between them, however, the anchorage is good and well 
sheltered, the bottom being of sand, and the depth from 5 to 7 fathoms.* 

With Fortescue bay and port Gallant so near, the probability is that this 
bay will never be much used, but in beating to the westward it would be 
better to anchor there than to lose ground by returning to Woods bay ; by 
entering the western channel and keeping clear of the kelp, a safe anchorage 
may be easily reached at the inner extremity of the bay called port San 
Miguel. There is a large lagoon trending in a north-east direction for 
2 miles, and two-thirds of a mile across. The entrance ;to the lagoon is 
both narrow and shoal, and not safe for a* vessel drawing more than 6 feet, 
but inside the depth is from 3 to 13 fathoms. 

FOBTB8CVB BAT, called by the Spanish voyagers, Bahia de Fuerte 
Escudo (good shelter) ; but whether its present name is an English 
corruption of this, as seems probable, or whether it was called after 
some one named Fortescue, does not appear. It is the first really good 
anchorage westward of San Nicolas bay, and one of the best in the whole 
length of the strait. It is spacious, well sheltered, easy of access, and 
of moderate depth. It is not recommended to anchor very close under 
the island on the west side, where the williwaws are more uncertain 
in their direction. The holding ground also is not so good as in the 
eastern part of the bay ; the best berth^ is from South to S.E. of Cross 
island, in from 4^ to 8 or 9 fathoms, according to the distance from 
shore.f 

* See Admiralty Flan, Cordes bay, No. 556 ; scale, m =^ 1*5 inches. 

] See Adjniralty Plan, Port Gallant and Fortescue bay, No. 547 ; scale, m = 6 inches. 



CHAP. 11.] CORDES BAY. — ELIZABETH BAY. 49 



forming the inner harbour of Fortescue bay, was 
probably named from Hugh Gallant, one of Cavendish's men who died and 
was buried there, though the Hugh Gallant was also the name of one of 
Cavendish's ships. When inside, it forms a very snug little port, perfectly 
sheltered, and with excellent anchorage, in 3 to 3^ fathoms, mud. The 
entrance, however, is narrow, and has filled up considerably since the days 
of the Adventure and Beagle. There are only 2^ fathoms in the channel 
afc low water, and as Fortescue bay is quite sufficiently sheltered and 
much more easy to reach or quit, there seems to be no object for going 
inside unless repairs have to be done. The banks on the western side 
off the east shore of Wigwam island are not well defined, and a vessel 
is very likely to ground on them. 

In this part of the strait, as the channel becomes narrowed by the 
islands, the tides are more felt and run as much as 3 miles an hour. We 
have, however, the authority of Cordova's Lieutenant, Churruca, who pulled 
all along this part of the strait, for saying that close in shore the tide 
runs the contrary way to that in mid-channel.* 

PaMMffe Point is 8 miles westward of cape Gallant, and at a short 
distance W.S.W. of it is a shoal with 2 fathoms on it, but it is always well 
marked by kelp. 

BiiZKABBTB BAT, just northward of Passage point, has a sandy beach 
and a rivulet flowing into it. There is fair anchorage in this bay about 
half a mile from the eastern beach, in 13 to 16 fathoms, sand ; though it is 
quite open, no sea would occur there, and should a vessel part her cable 
she would be able to clear Passage point with a prevalent wind. In 
easterly winds it would be very good. There is a remarkable bare patch 
or scaur on a hill over the anchorage, which when coming from the west- 
ward shows very conspicuously, and should not be brought ea«itward of 
E.N.E. ; the line which clears the rocky ridge extending off from t^ low 
point half a mile west of the anchorage. 

Cordova's anchorage in this bay was with Passage point bearing E.S.E. 
half a mile, in 15 fathoms, and about 3 cables from the river ; Conmiodore 
Byron^ in the Dolphin, anchored here in 10 fathoms, with Rupert island 
bearing S. by E. 2 or 3 miles ; Passage point S.E. by S. three-fourths of a* 
mile ; the western part of the bay W. by IS . 2 miles ; and the rocky ledge 
above mentioned N.W. by W. half a mile. This ledge is quite covered 
at high water, and extends about a cable off shore. The tide is not 
very strong in the eastern part of Elizabeth bay; but it is so in the western 
part, where there is an indifferent anchorage in 14 or 15 fathoms near the 
edge of the kelp, about 250 yards from the beach. 

'*' Churmca and Uriarte, Cordova's lieutenants, seem to have done all the western 
strait in a boat I could not find from the account that Cordova ever went ther 
himself.-— B. C. M. 

S6634. I> 



50 MAGELLAN STBAIT. — ^WBSTBBN PART. Fchap. n. 



Tomx SOAB or 8AT€»B&os BAT (Rada de vacaro of the Spaniards) 
is at the entrance of the Jerome channel. Captain Fitzroj describes it 
as a good and convenient anchorage, but as the tides set strongly through 
both the Crooked reaches and Jerome channels, a vessel lying h«re in light 
winds will be sheared about most uncomfortably, and in strong winds it is 
subject to violent gusts down both these channels also ; but for these 
objections there would seem to be a &ir anchorage in 10 to 12 fathoms, sand 
and mud, with Bachelor river well open. Fitzroy's berth was half a mile off 
the wooded point, just to the westward of the river, bearing N. by W. f W. 
and the mouth of the river, N. by E. f E. three-quarters of a mile. Cordova's 
anchorage was nearly the same, half a mile from the beach, with the river's 
mouth bearing N. by W. | W. ; and the west point of the bay, N. W. f W. 
Going in or out care must be taken to keep the river's mouth well open 
until at least half a mile from the wooded point above mentioned, which 
forms the west point of the bay, as very shoal water extends a considerable 
distance from the point. With Elizabeth, Tilly, and Boija bays so near 
York road is not recommended. ./' 

Baelieior Biver is accessable to boats only, and in going into or out of 
its entrance they must be very carefrd to follow exactly the course of the 
stream, for a bar lies outside ; large boats cannot enter at half tide. At 
three-quarters of a mile eastward of the river is a shoal, which has not 
more than 6 feet of water upon it at low water ; it is about half a mile off 
shore, and shows itself by kelp. 

TZBBB. — ^The set and change of the tide in this part of the strait are very 
uncertain on account of the meeting of the waters of the Jerome channel with 
those of the strait through English and Crooked reaches, which occasions 
many ripplings, and would require lengthened investigation to understand 
correctly. Captain Fitzroy thought "the tide along shore near Bachelor river 
changed an hour later than in the offing ; in Bachelor bay, by the beach, 
during the first half or two-thirds of the tide that ran to the south-east, the 
water fell, and during the latter half or two-thirds it rose, in the offing it ran 
very strong." By the same officer's observations the time of high, ftill, and 
change at the entrance of the river would be Ih. 46m. ; but according to 
Captain Stokes two years previously it was 2h. 13m.; and the stream at the 
anchorage ran 3 knots according to Churruca, as before mentioned. There 
is an eddy all along the north shore of the strait in this part ; and Churruca 
says when leaving Fortescue bay, "the sea was smooth and the tide running 
to the eastward ; we avoided this obstacle by going close along the north 
coast where it followed a contrary direction."* 

U between Fortescue bay and Barbara channel, con- 



• Ultima Viage de la Fragata, Santa Maria de la Cabeza. 



CHAP, n.] CHAELES ISLANDS. — BONET BAY. 61 

sist of several large and small isles. Between them there is said to be good 
anchorage in 13 fathoms; with an outlet to the north-west and one to the 
Bouth-west, as well as a narrow passage communicating with the strait to the 
south-east. As this is immediately opposite such a good anchorage as 
Fortescue bay, and considerably out of the way, it is of no great value. 

Opposite to cape Gallant on the eastern island of this group, and near 
its north-west end, there is a conspicuous white rock called WaUis mark. 

Secretary Wren island, the south-eastern of the group, is a small rocky 
islet, rising abruptly in two peaks. Near it to the south-east are two 
groups of small rocks, and a mile E.S.E. there are two single rocks above 
water called the Canons ; the next islands to the westward in successionare 
Monmouth and James islands, with Bupert rocks and island. When the 
wind blows fresh there is a hollow sea between these islands and the strait, 
which very much impedes ships proceeding to the westward. 

CA&&OB xzz. ZSKAITD, SO named by Cordova, is separated from Ulloa 
peninsula by the navigable channel of David sound, and joined to Rupert 
island by a reef called Lucky ledge ; it is high and covered with small trees. 
To the northward of Whale point, at its eastern extremity, there is a cove 
with an anchorage in 15 fathoms close to the shore on a steep bank, but 
bad ground. The Beagle and Adelaide both dragged off the bank from the 
violence of the squalls off the island. From the north point of the cove 
Lucky ledge extends to Rupert island, and the tides set over it with con- 
siderable strength. The Beagle having dragged her anchor in the cove, was 
brought up by its hooking a rock on the ledge, but it was found broken 
on being hove up ; while there the tide set past her in a north and south 
direction at the rate of 3 knots. 

Mvsssi^ BAT, to the westward of cape Middleton or Narborough, 
on the north shore of Carlos III. island, is of considerable size, and well 
sheltered, but the bottom is uneven and stony, and the water deep. This 
bay was not surveyed, but the Nassau steamed all round it, and obtained 
25 fathoms, sand and shell, in the middle, where there would be plenty of 
room for a vessel to swing. A small vessel might anchor at the head in 
about 15 fathoms. There is a large kelp patch 2 or 3 cables off the eastern 
point, with a deep channel on each side, that on the west being, however 
the wider.* 

BOWBT BAT (of Cordova) is formed by two small bare islets just oppo- 
site Bachelor river, and nearly 2 miles east of Tilly bay. The place is not 
adapted for anchorage, as it affords no shelter, and the water is deep, added 
to which the tide between the islets is very strong. Cordova, who recom- 
tnended it, after saying a vessel "may anchor in 15 to 30 fathoms, with the 

* See eye sketch of Mussel bay, on Admiralty Sheet of Plans, No. 521. 

D 2 



52 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — ^\^'ESTERN PART. [chap.ii. 

outer islet between N. W. and West," goes on to say, " between the island 
and the coast the current runs to the eastward with great force." 

TX3b&T BAT, though small, has a good and safe anchorage a short mile 
eastward of cape Crosstide, the north-west end of Carlos the III. island. 
It is very conveniently placed fdr a vessel unable to stem the strong tide, 
and violent squalls, which often come with great force through Crooked 
reach, and sweep round cape Crosstide. It is the £rst opening east of the 
cape, and runs in S.S.W. half a mile, terminating in a small lagoon^ which 
dries in patches at low water. A large ship must anchor in the middle, or 
a little further in, where she will get 18 to 20 fietthoms, mud. Anchorage 
in less water may be had nearer the shore on the north side, but the bottom 
seems more rocky there.* 

In Tilly bay as in many other of the western anchorages of the strait, there 
seem to be points of rock sticking up through the mud. 

It may be here mentioned that several times when lying in these harbours 
with a long scope of cable out, the chain rattled over rocks so much as to 
shake the ship, and yet she never started in the heaviest squalls. On 
heaving up, the fluke of the anchor has been found covered with stiff mud. 

CBOZ8SV& BAT» on the Fuegian coast, to the south-west of Monmouth 
island, does not seem to be in the least inviting ; Captain Fitzroy describes 
it to be a large deceptive bay, full of islets and patches of kelp, under which 
there are rocks, whilst between the islets the water is deep and unfit for 
anchorage. Nash bay, 4 miles to the westward, is equally unserviceable. 

Whale sound, also on the Fuegian side south of Ulloa peninsula., has a 
large inlet trending 8 miles into the land, and terminates in a valley, 
bounded on each side by high mountains. There is anchorage only in one 
part of it on the western side of Last harbour, and although this harbour 
appears large the anchorage is small and close to the shore. Whale sound 
also is so fer out of the way as to be of no practicable use to the navigator. 

BAVZB somrB separates Carlos in. island from the Ulloa peninsula. 
At its northern extreme the water is deep, but where it begins to narrow 
there are soundings, and possibly an anchorage. In a passage like this, 
however, between high land the squalls would be so violent as to render 
anchorage very unsafe. 

OTWAT and SXTBIBO WATBB8, with the Strait of Magellan, was 
only slightly examined by Cordova's officers, for their object being merely 
to confirm or disprove Sarmiento's statement that the land between it and 
the gulf of Xaultegua was an island, the Largo de Notella was only explored 
by them. The continuation of the Jerome, named in the old charts Indian 
sound, having never been traced, and being therefore an object of great 

♦ See Plan of Tilly bay, No. 621. 



CHAP. 11.] TILLY BAY. — CAPE QUOD. 53 

interest, it was investigated by Capt. Fitzroy as carefully as could be done 
in the middle of winter in an open boat. The period of his absence from 
the ship however, 32 days, not being sufficient to complete the service, the 
western shore of the Skyring water was not visited. The Jerome channel 
is narrow, but sheltered and free from danger. The eastern shore is lugh and 
steep and covered with trees ; the western shore is lower and less wooded. 
In mid-channel near its western end are two small islands, called in the 
Spanish chart Terran islands. 

AMJkJTL BAT is an anchorage in the eastern side of this channel at its 
entrance ; Commodore Byron in the Dolphin anchored there on a bank 
in 15 fathoms, '^ which lies half a mile from the north shore," and 2 miles 
S.S.W. from the south point of Jerome channel, with cape Quod bearing 
W.S.W. 8 miles, but after veering two-thirds of a cable the ship was in 
45 fathoms. Cordova in the Spanish chart has made this bay much deeper 
than it should be, and Churruca truly observes that it is, properly speaking, 
a road open from north to west, and very little sheltered from west to south, 
as the west point is low. Here, as in York road, are eddy tides which 
whirl a vessel about in all directions. 

Passing by the Jerome channel, as practically useless [to the navigator, 
we round cape Crosstide, and enter Crooked reach, the only good anchorage 
in which is Borja bay. 

CSOOXEB RBACB is Comprised between Jerome channel and Snow 
sound. In the investigation of this part Wallis and Carteret suffered extreme 
anxiety, and anyone who has read their journal would not willingly run the 
risk of anchoring in any port or bay on its south^n shore. 

BUT&EB BA.T, SO named by Wallis, who got 10 £a,thoms, rock, on 
entering, and then 30 &thoms, also rock. 

CBAB'CB BAT looks a likely place at first sight^ but the rocks and islets 
at the west end are all joined by kelp, being in fact a continuation of rocky 
ledges, rendering the anchorage^ such as it is, quite unfit for a vessel of 
any size. 

BAT of BCAS8 is quite open, and the water in it very deep, having 50 
fathoms close to its head. It shares also in the objection to all bays on the 
south side of this reach, that they are exposed to the full force of the winds 
down Long reach. 

vnBOxm BAT, or more properly, cove, has anchorage for a schooner in 
15 fathoms, mud, and is perfectly sheltered. It is too small, however, even 
for a gun boat, and with Borja bay so near is not required. 

CAPB qvOD, or Queade (as the Spaniards spelt it), a high projecting 
point on the northern shore of the reach, has a very bleak, rugged appear- 



54 MAQELLAN STBAIT. — ^WESTERN PAET. [oHAP.n. 

ance. The almost perpetual westerly wind seems to forbid all vegetation 
on the heights exposed to its action, and accounts for the desolate look of 
these shores. 

Narborough thus describes this cape :— ^^ It is a steep-up cape of a rocky 
greyish £9.ce and of a good height, before one comes to it it shows like a 
great building of a castle ; it points off with a raise £rom the other moun- 
tains so much into the channel, that it makes shooting in against the south 
land, and maketh an elbow in the strait." The Spanish description is 
perhaps more useful. Churruca says :— ^^ This cape is easily recognised 
coming from eastward as a high mountain with peaks ; it has a large 
ravine, and then three peaks, almost circular, the first lower than the 
others." The high mountain is not, properly speaking, part of the cape, 
as it stands some way back, and there is a valley between it and the cape, 
out of which, as is said, rise three peaks. Off the extreme of N.W. by W. 
firom it is an islet with an off-lying reef, and N.N. W. of that is a rock about 
2 cables from the extreme of the cape. The position of Cape Quod in the 
strait, however, makes it unmistakeable without any description. Abreast 
the cape Captain Stokes found the current setting to the eastward at the rate 
of 1^ knots. 

B& MOSXOJr (the Helmet), formerly called San David head, on the 
southern shore of the Crooked reach, is a lofty granitic rock, of which the 
outer face is perpendicular, bare, and of a light clay colour, distinguishable 
from a considerable distance, both from the eastward and westward, and 
forming an excellent leading mark to assure the navigator of his position. 
El Morion is particularly remarkable also for a large white patch on its 

BOXJA AA.T (Island bay of Byron) is on the northern shore of Crooked 
reach, 2 miles eastward of cape Quod ; its position is pointed out by the 
Ortiz isles (vulgarly called Big and Little Borja), which lie off its west 
point, as well as by its situation with respect to El Morion. The entrance is 
to the eastward of the larger of the Ortiz islets, and presents no dangers. The 
shores of the bay may be approached to half a cable's length, dose to the 
edge of the kelp. This bay fully deserves the praise given it by Captains 
Stokes and Fitzroy, and for a steamer is perfectly easy to ingress and egress. 
Here, as everywhere in the western part of the strait, the williwaws are 
at times very heavy, but they need not be feared as there is no sea, and the 
holding ground is excellent. A large ship should anchoi' well out in about 
20 fathoms, but a smaller one can go into 12 or 13 fathoms ; it is better not 
to moor unless the size of the ship makes it absolutely necessary.* 

Both Captains Stokes and Fitzroy speak of this bay in their journals as 

* See Plan of Borja bay on Admiralty sheet, No. 521. 



CHAP. II.] BORJA BAY. — CROOKED EOCK. 65 

snug, well sheltered, and tolerably easy of access, but in a gale, like its 
neighbours, the anchorage is much incommoded by the williwaws, which 
" drove the ship from one side to the other, as if she were a light chip upon 
the water." Captain Fitzroy says, *^ Let me recommend Borja bay as 
an excellent, although small, anchorage ; under the coarse upper sand the 
anchor will find stiff ground like pipe clay. Avoid the islet off its western 
side as you come in or out." 

The anchorage in the bay is sheltered from the westerly and south- 
westerly gales which usually prevail, and is open only to south-easterly 
winds, which very rarely blow here, and still more rarely with violence, 
and as the holding ground is good, the depth of water moderate, and 
any stretch of sea prevented by the narrowness of the adjacent strait, it is a 
very good and secure anchorage. No surf or swell obstructs the landing 
anywhere, and there is plenty of wood and water. A number of boards 
with ships' names upon them will be seen on the eastern side of the bay 
near a rivulet, and these form a good mark for picking up an anchorage by 
not bringing them eastward of N.E. by E. 

Between Borja bay and cape Quod there are two coves : these are the 
Biaha de Cimeros (Swan bay) and the Ancon de Tamasco of the Spaniards. 
The first is described by them as being " well sheltered but difficult of 
access, because the mountains which surround it repel the wind in various 
directions, and its mouth, a little more than a cable wide, is narrowed 
stiU more by a kelp patch ; on the east side it runs to the north, and there 
widens and turns to the north-east, where it is 5 cables long by 3 wide. 
The bottom is gravel in 6 to 10 fathoms, and the same as the beach." 
The entrance lies N.N.E. of a very distinct white mark on the opposite 
shore over Butler bay. Tamasco is described as being very small and 
shallow. 

Crooked Hook, lying about three-quarters of a mile S.W. by W. from 
the large Ortiz island, was examined in 1852 by Commander F. L. Barnard 
in H.M.S. Vixen. Only 3 feet of water were found on it, 3 fathoms close 
to its sides, then 10, 20, and 40 fathoms. From the rock, Ortiz island bore 
N.E, ^ E. ; the centre of the bluff of El Morion S. J W. ; a remarkable 
patch low down on the land in the centre of Butler bay, and just westward 
of the extreme point of El Morion S. ^ W. ; and the small Ortiz islet was 
about its own length opens eastward of the large one ; kelp extends upwards 
of a cable eastward from the small islet, but not less than 3 fathoms were 
found in it. Crooked rock is marked by kelp, but vessels running during 
the night, or by day in fogs, or snow storms, should keep well over on the 
southern shore, where no danger exists. Coming from the westward, 
little Ortiz islet should not be opened from big Ortiz on the south side ; 
when it opens on the north side the rock is passed. 



56 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — WESTERK PART, [chap. n. 

&oiro SBA.CB begins at cape Quod, and extends to the entrance of the 
gulf of Xaultegua, a distance of 39 miles in the direction of W. bj N. ^ N. 
The weather in this reach is frequently so thick, that although the 
distance across it is only 2 to 3 miles, one shore is found concealed from the 
other bj the mist, on which account Captain Stokes' found it impossible 
to form any plan of this part of the strait on his passage through it. When 
leaving Stewart bay, he says in his report, " we continued our progress to 
the west, having westerly and south-westerly winds with thick weather, 
and drizzHng rain. The coasts on both sides were very rarely visible to 
us, by reason of the thick mist by which they were kept concealed. It is, 
however, a bold coast on each side, otherwise the strait would be utterly 
unnavigable in such weather." 

Although such weather is very common in all the western parts of the 
strait, and perhaps in Long reach more common than in the others, the 
navigation by a steamer presents little difficulty on this account. The 
high land is commonly obscured, as well as the points at a distance of 2 or 3 
miles, but they can almost always be seen sufficiently h,r off to avoid 
running on them, and between the driving squalls a view is generally ob- 
tained for some distance. The shores on either side of this reach are less 
verdant than to the eastward of cape Quod. The hills are generally bare 
of all vegetation above, but below they are covered with trees and shrubs, 
though not of large size. Cordova seems to have been greatly impressed by 
Long reach, for he says, '^ As soon as cape Quod is passed the strait assumes 
a most horrible appearance, having high mountains on both sides separated 
by ravines entirely destitute of trees from the mid-height upwards." In 
the winter months the hills are covered with snow from the summit to the 
base, but the exact time of its fall is very uncertain. The Adventure 
passed through in the month of April, when no snow was visible, but we 
have seen the hills covered in the beginning of March.* 



ics&o BAT has no safe anchorage in it. The west part is too 
small, and has a kelp patch nearly in the middle, while the east part is open 
and too deep, having 25 fathoms close in among the kelp, and too close to 
the beach to be of any use. The easternmost part of all has a sandy 
beach at its head, but it is quite exposed. The Spanish " plan," as it is 
called, is very incorrect, being evidently only an eye sketch from the outside. 
Cordova says he did not make " an over careful examiuation of it, as it did 
not seem so good as those they knew." f 

osoBiro BAT is of no service, being narrow and deep, as well as open 
to all westerly winds, which blow with great force down Long reach. 



* See remarks, page 35, 

t See eye sketch of Barcelo bay, on Admiralty sheet, No. 521. 



CHAP. 11.] LONG REACH, — GUIRIOR BAY. 67 



\ the next to the westward^ trends in for about a mile to 
the north-east, and has 10 to 12 jGstthoms, stony bottom ; it is more shel- 
tered than the two former bays. Churruca observes, " It has an islet in the 
middle of the entrance, and is defended from the winds from north to west 
by high mouitains ; but according to the examination made in the voyage 
in the frigate Cabeza the bottom is all stone, and consequently it is useless 
to mariners." 

POBABA8 8AT is most probably the Lion cove of Wallis ; its western 
point is formed by a high pointed pi*ecipitous headland, resembling in 
Wallis's idea a lion's head ; and though Cordova could not discover a like- 
ness with it, it is sufficiently descriptive to point out the bay were the 
anchorage worth occupying, which it is not* Wallis describes it to have 
deep water close to the shore ; his ship anchored in 14 fathoms. 

ASOB BAT, which Cordova describes as having anchorage in 6 to 17 
&thoms, stones, divides at the bottom into two arms, each being half mile 
long : the outer points bear from each other W.N.W. and E.S.E. half a mile 
apart. / 

F&OBB8 BAT is probably the Good Luck bay of Wallis. Cordova de- 
scribes it as very small and much exposed, with 26 &thoms, stone and 
gravel ; he says, '^ To the south-east of an islet close to its west point is a 
reef with very little water on it, which is marked by kelp. This bay has 
two little creeks at its head, formed by a point which projects from the 
middle, and a rivulet which runs from the ravine in the mountains." 

TZUbBB'A COVB with from 15 to 20 fathoms, is very open and 
exposed. 

OunucoB BAT is large and open to the south. Cordova says it 
extends more than a league to the northward, the mouth being more than 
2 miles wide. At its western point is cape Notch, which will serve to 
recognise it. Near the entrance there are several rocks and an island, and 
within them, on the western side, two coves, with 16 to 30 fathoms, stone. 
Farther in is the port, which has a narrow entrance, and into which a river 
falls from a considerable height. The rapidity of the stream has formed a 
channel in the direction of the entrance, and in this channel there is 
anchorage in 20 to 26 fathoms. The port is too difficult to reach to make 
its anchorage an object of great value. The reef is said to extend nearly 
a cable off the western side of the narrows, and there is also a bank outside 
the narrows, but it is pointed out by kelp. 

Guirior bay was not entered by the N(issau^ as a heavy gale was blowing 
right into it when that part was examined ; but from the view obtained in 
crossing its entrance, it was not thought to be worth much ; it is quite 



58 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — WESTERN PART. [chap. n. 

• 

open to south-west winds, as Churruca has drawn it, though Cordova says 
it may be entered with that wind. Several ** breaks " were seen in it from 
the Nassau^ and altogether it did not seem a desirable place to run for, 
though possibly anchorage may be found somewhere far in. 

From the above brief description of the bays between capes Quod and 
Notch, occupying a space of \2\ miles, none seem to be either convenient 
or safe, and the best port for shelter for a ship in this part of the strait is 
Swallow bay, on the opposite shore. On the other hand, small vessels may 
find secure resting places where a large ship dare not approach, for if the 
water be too deep for anchorage, the small vessel may be secured to the 
shore at the bottom of the coves, where neither swell nor wind can reach 
them. With the exception of Guirior bay, none of those above mentioned 
has room in it for a long steamer of the present day, though they may have 
sheltered the voyagers of the last century. 

CAPS VOTOB, a prqjecting point of grey-coloured rock, about 650 feet 
high, having a deep cleft in its summit, is a conspicuous headland from 
either side, and cannot, be mistaken. Captain Stokes remarks that the 
mountains in the neighbourhood of this cape spire up into peaks of great 
height^ and are connected by singularly sharp saw-like ridges, as bare of 
vegetation as if they had been rendered so by the hand of art. About their 
bases there are generally some green patches of brush-wood and small trees, 
through which it is difficult to penetrate any distance from the beach. 
Humming birds will also be seen in considerable numbers in the cosres and 
harbours, sometimes flying about within a few yards [of the foot of an 
enormous glacier. 

svo'W somrB is a deep inlet on the south shore of Long reach ; it was 
formerly supposed to communicate with Whale sound, making an island of 
Ulloa peninsula, but this was disproved by Captain Fitzroy. This sound 
is unimportant to the navigator, and not worth the trouble of entering, 
though there are two anchoring coves, one about a mile and the other 
2 miles within its western head. This extends in for 10 miles, and 
terminates in two inlets surrounded by high perpendicular black rocks. 

SUTAXiZiOiir 8 AT, the Bahia Varonesa of the Spaniards, 1 J miles west- 
ward of Snow sound, is by far the best anchorage in Long reach, indeed 
the only one fit for a very large ship, and all dangers are well buoyed by the 
kelp. It was first used by Captain Carteret in the Swallow ; the anchorage 
is under the eastward side of the island which bears his name, and which 
separates Swallow from Condesa bay. On the west side of the entrance is 
Fitzroy rock, about a cable's length off* Carteret island, but between this and 
the Wallis islets the passage is perfectly clear. After entering, the Fisgard 
rocks will be seen 2 cables inside Duntze point, and nearly in the middle of 



cHAP.n.] CAPE NOTCH. — STEWAET SAY. 59 

the bay ; these are well marked by kelp, and may be passed on either side, 
the big ship anchorage being about 1^ cables inside them.^ 

A smaller vessel will find anchorage off Grant point, or even farther up 
the bay. The only drawback to Swallow bay is that the bottom is uneven, 
and in some parts rocky. No sea, however, can enter the bay with the 
prevalent wind, and a ship with good ground tackle need not fear drifting. 
The Nassau rode out a heavy gale there at single anchor without starting, 
though the cable was sometimes heard to giind over the points of rock 
which stick up through the mud. 

Swallow bay may be easily recognised by a large cascade falling down 
from the centre of the mountains at the bottom of the port, to the southward 
of which there are two higher mountains, the summit of the eastern being- 
peaked and the western one rounded. Coming from the eastward it will 
be recognised as the next opening to Snow sound. The passage inside 
Carteret island between Swallow and Condesa bay is full of large boulders, 
and almost dry at low water. 



is full of islets and rocks, and has not nearly so much 
room in it as Swallow bay. 



(la Bahia de Stuardo) follows Condesa bay. Cor- 
dova says of it, " It has an islet besides several patches of kelp, which are 
indications of the many rocks that exist. Even the best channel is narrow 
and tortuous, the depth is from 12 to 16 fathoms, stones. At the bottom 
there is an islet forming two narrow channels, leading into a port or basin 
2 cables wide ; the eastern channel is the deepest, having 15 to 20 
fathoms. In the basin on the eastern side is 6 and 9 fathoms, mud. A 
reef extends half a cable to the westward of 4;he south end of the 
islet ; it would be difficult and dangerous to enter this small basin.'' 
Captain Stokes says of Stewart bay, " It afforded us a quiet resting place 
for the night, but is not to be recommended as an anchorage ; for though 
it is sufficiently sheltered from wind and sea, yet the rocks in different 
parts of it render the passage in and out very hazardous. Every danger 
in it is pointed out by rock-weed, but it is so much narrowed thereby as 
to require the utmost vigilance." 

In the Nassau we steamed into the entrance, but backed out again on 
observing the kelp, as it seemed joined right across, and it was blowing too 
hard to lower a boat. 



of Sarmiento next follows, and all that is known of 
it is that it extends to the southward for 5 or 6 miles, and probably termi- 

■ » I I ... - ■ -■ I I ' I 11 1 .^ 

. * See Plan of Swallow bay, on Admiralty sheet, No. 521. 



60 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — WESTERN PART. [chap. ii. 

nates like Snow sound. To the westward of Snow channel there are several 
inlets, bat they were all found to have too deep water for anchorage. 

oukczas BAT, on the north side of Long reach, is only remarkable 
for the very fine glacier at its head. It was examined by the Nassau^ but 
found to be quite exposed to all west winds from north to south, and where 
the water was sufficiently shoal to find anchorage the space was too confined 
for a vessel of any size. The bay is divided into two at its head by a small 
promontory, the west part turning southward in a small creek. The large 
bay east of Glacier was also carefully examined and found quite exposed, 
and very deep. Inside it passing between two rocky points about a cable 
apart is a large bay, about three-quarters of a mile in diameter, but very 
deep ; inside this are some islets, between which the Nassau steamed with 
barely room for her keel, between the west islet and the reef, which just 
showed under water ; having past this, however, we opened the beautiful 
harbour, about a mile long, with 13 to 17 fathoms, mud, all over it. Coming 
out the boats searched for a better entrance, but there was none, the 
passage between the other islets having only 4 to 5 feet in it, making this 
otherwise fine harbour quite useless. 

Between Glacier bay and Playa Parda the shore is bold and uninter^ 
rupted, except by a small cove about 2 miles to the eastward of Playa 
Parda, which seems to afford shelter for small craft. Off the western 
point there is a reef, but within it there seems to be a basin of at least 
half a mile in extent. 

F&ATA VASBA covB IB the next place westward of cape Notch that 
can be recommended for an anchorage ; it is well sheltered, and has a good 
bottom, being of sandy mud, strewed with stones. The place, however, is 
so confined that no vessel which is too large to go into the inner cove is 
advised to anchor there.* 

The Sutlfj anchored in an outer anchorage in 8 fathoms, as did also 
the Zealous in March 1867, but it is not adapted for such large ships in 
bad weather, as the water shoab suddenly from 30 to 15 and 11 fathoms, 
and if a vessel drags off the bank she is almost certain to tail on the 
southern shore ; this was the case with the Sutlejy for at 2.10 a.m. a violent 
squall brought a sudden jerk on the cable and broke the anchor off near 
the crown, and although a second was let go instantly her stem tailed* 
The holding ground does not seem particularly good, for in her case the 
anchors came home in heaving the ship off. If it should be absolutely 
necessary for a large ship to anchor here she should certainly moor, as did 
the ZealouSy on account of the confined space ; the best way to do this is to 

* See Plan of Playa Parda Cove, on Admiralty sheet, No. 521. 



CHAp.n.] PLATA PARDA COVE. — HANNANT BAT. 61 

steam in straight for the centre of Middle island^ bearing about North, let 
go the port anchor directly bottom is obtained, and putting the helm a star- 
board shoot up towards the entrance of the cove as far as the vessel's 
draught will let her go. The Zealous* 8 outer anchor was in 18, and the 
inner in 6^ fathoms. 

The inner cove is quite landlocked and is a perfectly secure anchorage 
for vessels of moderate size ; for although the entrance is very narrow the 
east entrance point is so steep-to, that a vessel's side may almost touch the 
point whilst the keel is in deep water. Middle point is also steep-to, and 
should be kept aboard in entering, the opposite side being rocky and more 
shallow. The South and West shores of the cove are clear, but on the East 
and N.E. sides the water shoals more than a cable from the shore ; but if 
Wooding point or the rocks awash outside the cove are kept well open of the 
eastern point, good anchorage will be had in 5 to 6 fathoms, mud. The 
mountains over-head are so high that the williwaws pass over the ship 
without striking her, but it is recommended to make fast the stem to the 
shore, as otherwise the cable wiU get twisted round and round the anchor. 

A ship too large to go into Fkya Parda cove will do better to 
go on to port Angosto than to anchor in the outer anchorage. Playa 
Parda cove is easily known by Shelter island, which fronts the inlet of 
Playa Parda. The inlet is 1^ miles long and half a mile broad, but with 
very deep water all over. By luffing round the island the ship will fetch 
the outer anchorage, and although sail should not be reduced too soon, yet 
the squalls, if the weather be bad, blow down the inlet with great violence, 
and care must be taken not to have too much sail. There is a small kelp 
patch about midway between Shelter island and the main, and a large one 
about 2 cables off the north-west point of the island. Between Playa 
Parda and Havanah point there is no anchorage on the north shore for a 
ship of any size. 

MASZOV covB is weU sheltered from all winds, except between 
S.S.E. and S.S.W. A small vessel might anchor there in 80 fathoms in 
the centre of the cove, with her stern fast to the shore, but there is no 
room to swing. 

yoTiTi/im'D CO va is much like Marion cove, and in fine weather the anchor 
might be dropped in 18 or 19 fathoms, near the head of the cove, but thera 
is no room to veer cable or swing.* 

BAjrwBJTT BJkT is quite exposed, and has no anchorage in it. The 
shores are steep-to, and a considerable sea comes in from the sea reach 
when the wind is at all strong from the west. 

* See eye sketch of Pollard Cove, on Admiralty sheet, No. 521. 



62 MAGELLAN STEAIT. — ^WESTERN PART. [chap. ii. 



(of Sarmiento) on the southern shore of the reach, opposite 
Playa Farda^ is a deep opening, which has much the appearance of a 
channel, leading through Santa Innes island. Laru describes it as a ^^ great 
opening which enters the land in a south-south-west direction for more 
than 2 leagues, and has an island at its mouth ; we called it the Abra 
(opening), because we could not see its termination. 

Within the Abra the land is low and hummocky. Half a league to the 
eastward there is a cove (Ancon) on the right-hand shore, and on the 
left-hand shore a league across, is another cove or creek (Caleta) which 
forms a harbour, called by the Indians Pelepelgua^ whilst the Ancon is 
known to them as Exeaquil." 

The Abra has no place worth anything as an anchorage in it. The 
Nassau entered it east of the island in the entrance, where at first there 
seemed to be an anchorage, but as we opened it the water was found very 
deep, and the place quite exposed to the south-west. The only indentation 
on the west side was very small, and almost filled up with kelp. The 
Abra seemed to run in a west-south-west direction for 2 or 3 miles, and 
then turn away to the south and south-south-east, very probably communi- 
cating with Dynevor sound ; there are several islands in it. 

Between the Abra and port Angosto there is no place fit for an ancho- 
rage, although there are several inlets which look inviting ; the Nassau 
steamed round them all without being able to find an anchorage except so 
close to the shore as to render it valueless. 

Bocky Inlet, the next to the Abra, has two islands in its entrance, and is 
very deep all over. The large inlet west of it is divided into four arms, up 
each of which the Nassau steamed to the head, between steep, almost per- 
pendicular mountains, but without finding any anchorage. In fine weather 
a small vessel might make fast to the trees in these inlets, as they are per- 
fectly sheltered and secure, but with Playa Parda and Port Angosto so near 
this is not likely to be necessary. 

■ 

vo&T AiroosTO afibrds good anchorage, with room enough for a large 
ship, but for a small vessel it is not so comfortable as the cove of Playa Parda, 
for being larger and the land lower, the williwaws are felt much more. The 
holding ground is of atifi* mud however, and the Nassau rode out a 
heavy gale with furious squalls there at single anchor. Going westward 
the best mark for this port is a conical mountain (Mount Possession of 
Sarmiento) which rises over its entrance on the east side about 1,000 feet 
high, and down whose &ce a large waterMl discharges into a bay just out- 
side the port ; about 3 miles from it a group of islets are passed which lie 
off* the entrance of a wide-mouthed inlet.* 



♦ See Plan of Port Angosto on Admiralty sheet, No. 521. 



cHAp.n.] ABBA. — CAPE MONDAY. 68 

There are two or three roeky islets also in the bay immediately east of 
AngostOi into which the water£Eill flows ; as these last are passed 
two or three other cascades over the port will be seen. Kelp extends some 
distance off both points^ but £Ey*theat off the north point, which is an islet, 
though it does not show as one until the vessel turns inward to enter the 
inlet. From the westward a remarkable white streak will be seen on 
the side of one of the hUls east of the port, this is not seen from the 
eastward. A mid-channel course is the best up the inlet, and as Passage 
islet is passed, the larger waterfall will be seen over Hoy point, and the 
port itself (more properly basin) will open. 

The best anchorage is nearly in the centre in 13 or 14 fathoms^ rather on 
the south-west shore than otherwise. Care should be taken that the anchor 
is not let go too soon, as the ship wiU lie stem out with all prevalent winds, 
and on enteriog such a completely landlocked place one is apt to think 
oneself &rther in than one really is, and so anchor too soon. This remark 
applies to most of the ports in the western part of the strait, where the 
surrounding land is so high that one fancies oneself much nearer the shore 
than one really is. 

BAUP FOXT 8AT is merely a slight indentation of the coast, imme- 
diately west of Port Angosto. A depth of 16 fathoms was found about 
half a cable from the western point, off which the Beagle anchored, but the 
indentation is not deep enough to shelter a ship of any length. 

CAxros nrKST, immediately west of Half Port bay, has no anchorage 
until close to its head, where it is too narrow to be of any use. 

nvBZAir zarKBT, the next one west, about a mile from cape Monday, 
was also carefully examined, but no anchorage could be found in it. 

The same remark may be applied to all the inlets except port Angosto, 
between Snow sound and Cordova channel, as well as to most of those in 
the western part of the strait, and in the channels leading northward. In 
the western strait alone, fifty-two bays and inlets were examined by the 
Nassau ; all were perfectly sheltered, and as a rule free from danger of 
any kind, but so deep as to render them quite useless as anchorages. 

n]>a8.***Little has been said of the tides in this part of the strait, for they 
rise and fall only 4 feet. It is high water, full and change in all parts 
within a few minutes of noon. The ebb tide has little or no strength. The 
Current sets constantly to the eastward ; between capes Notch and Quod it 
set the Adventure 2 miles to the eastward in d^ hours ; and from cape 
Quod to port Grallant it carried her 6 miles in 3^ hours. 

CABB MOBDAT has anchorage under it for small vessels, but there is 
uot room to swing. Exactly in the middle, where the Nassau might 



L 



64 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — ^WESTERN PART. [chap. n. 

possibly have swung clear, we got 30 fathoms. Byron, however, rode out a 
heavy gale here, and it is certainly well sheltered, but the entrance is 
narrow. In £Eu;t, there is no good anchorage between port Angosto and 
port Churruca, and a vessel not having time to reach port Churruca or port 
Tamar should not pass Angosto unless intending to keep under way all night. 

«g«^^AT. BAT, 1^ miles westward of cape Monday, has no shelter what- 
ever in the outer anchorage, and the entrance to the inner one appeared 
too narrow for anything larger than a boat. The Spanish boat party, under 
Churruca and Uriarte, give a full account of it, as well as a plan. The 
plan makes the entrance 100 yards wide, but in the description they say it 
was only 160 feet;* this description says "there are 6 fathoms of water 
" over, sand in the entrance, and not less than 4 in the kelp, and inside 
" 9, 8, and 7 fathoms over sand or mud, except at the sides, where the 
" bottom is stony, in 4^ fathoms." 

Both entrances of Cordova channel were examined for anchorage but 
without success. The Nassau steamed some way down the eastern channel, 
in hopes of finding anchorage off one or other of two sandy beaches which 
were observed, on either side of the channel. Off the first, however, was 
found to be much kelp and foul ground, and off the second we had no 
bottom with 30 fathoms, with her jib-boom over the beach. On the eastern 
side of the island, which divides the channel in two, is a small cove, 
about 3 cables long, by half a cable wide ; it has 10 fathoms in the 
entrance, 20 in the centre of the cove, and 11 close to its head. The 
west side of the island appeared too much blocked up with small islets and 
rocks for a good anchorage at the sides of the channel, the channel itself 
seemed open and clear. In this channel has been placed Sarmiento's 
Puerto Angosto ; but anyone who had carefully read Sarmiento's account 
would not have placed it here, and in the Spanish chart it is given in 
its right place, where we found it. 

CAPB UPRZOBT (San Ildefonso of Cordova) bears S. by E. 5 miles 
from cape Providence. The cape is about 500 feet high, and has a rocky 
islet a quarter of a mile off its southern extremity, surrounded by kelp, 
which extends also for some distance from the cape towards the islet. 
S.S.E. of it are two kelp patches, the outer one being one mile off shore, 
but there is deep water between them. Strong tide rippling will frequently 
be observed off this cape. 

POST vpszoKT. — ^The Adelaide rode out a gale from the westward 
in this bay, with her stem in the surf on the beach ; and the Beagle 
anchored under the east side of the cape about half a mile south-west of 
the rocky islet, and for shelter from westerly winds found it to be very 

* Ult Yiage. Appendix, p. 49, " de 25 toesas." 



OHAP.n.] PORT UPRIGHT. — SEA BEACH. 66 

good. Of this place Captain Stokes observes : ^* We anchored a cable off a 
small patch of light-coloured shingle beach, on the western side of the bay, in 
22 &thoms, sandy bottom. This anchorage, though affording excellent 
shelter from the prevailing winds, is bad with a southerly wind, for the 
steepness of the bottom requiring a vessel to anchor close to the shore, 
sufficient scope is not left for veering cable.^'* 

Port Upright is not wide enough for a vessel of any length; the 
entrance is little more than half a cable across, between an island and a 
rock a few feet above water; and inmiediately inside is a kelp patch 
on the port hand, obliging a vessel to sheer over to starboard. The 
Nassau got 14 fathoms in the entrance ; 25 fathoms rock, in the middle ; 
22 fathoms, sand, neai* the head, and 10 almost touching the beach. If 
absolutely necessary a vessel might hold on here with her stem fast to the 
shore. There is a remarkable dip in the mountain over the head of the 
bay, which points it out unmistakeably when you are looking into it. The 
williwaws would probably come with great force down the gully ; when 
the Nassau was there it was calm. 

ouxr of SLambTBOVAy on the north side of the strait, at the northern 
end of Long reach, E.N.E. from cape Upright, is a deep opening trending 
into the land in an easterly direction for 28 miles, approaching within 
2 miles of Manning bay, one of the inlets on the north-west side of Jerome 
channel. The entrance is not 4 miles across, but it afterwards expands 
to the breadth of nearly 15 miles. At the entrance is St. Anna island, 
between which -and the south point there is a navigable channel half a mile 
wide. St. Anna island is about 2 miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E. ; off its 
north-west and south-west ends there are islets. 

The plan that was made of this gulf is very little more than an eye 
sketch. Captain Fitzroy, who passed through it in a boat in order to 
examine its eastern extremity, says, " The gulf is utterly useless, as from 
the appearance of its shores there seems to be no anchorage. Should a 
ship be so unfortunate as to make a mistake and get into it she must keep 
under weigh till she gets out again, there being no thoroughfare." No 
ship, however, should make such a mistake, as there is no danger in keeping 
the south shore aboard in that part of the strait. 

The triangle of land intervening between the strait of Magellan, the 
golf of Xaultegua, and the Jerome channel is jiamed Cordova peuinsula, 
as that navigator explored and described most of the small bays along its 
south-western face. 

SBA saacBp forming the western entrance to Magellan strait, runs 
W. by N; and E. by S. for 52 miles. On the northern shore between 
capes Tamar and Phillip, it opens into the channel which leads into the 

* See Eye Sketch of Port Upright, on Admiralty sheet, No. 521. 
26634. £ 



66 MA^GBLLAN STRAIT. — WESTBBN VAUT. [chap. u. 

gulf of Fe£LaSy inBide Qaeen Adelaide archipelago. Hitherto, in passing 
through Magellan strait from Elizabeth island, through Famine, Froward, 
English, Crooked, and Long reaches, to its western end, there is very 
little swell. In a heavy gale, or perhaps a strong breeze, a short sea 
xoBj be experienced in the wider parts of the strait, especially westward 
of cape Froward, but on opening Sea reach a heavy swell will be experi- 
enced coming from the Pacific. This will be found to a certain extent 
even on the cabnest days, but with strong westerly winds it becomes 
a serious drawback, giving a good indication, however, of what may be 
expected outside. 

Although the shores are steep-to on both sides, there are several 
off-lying islets which would render working to windward in a long ship 
in thick weather very dangerous. Byron passed a stormy night under 
weigh in this reach, as did also the Beagle. Captain Stokes observes : 
'^ We continued to beat to windward, the weather being rainy ; as both 
sides of the coast are bold our boards were directed during the night, 
which was very dark, by the sight of cape Upright when near one shore, 
and by cape Providence when near the other. We commonly tacked at 
a distance of a mile from either side, just between cape Providence and 
cape Upright; this would be safe enough, and a steama* might always 
keep under weigh during the night if she failed to find anchorage, but 
had the Beagle got inside either cape she would have found herself among 
numbers of rocks and islets.'' 

OJLPm PSOVZSBiroa is a rugged mountain on the northern shore of Sea 
reach ; it is higher than the adjacent coast, deeply cleft at the top, and 
from a bearing of about North^ the western portion of its summit appears 
arched, and the eastern peaked and lower. When the cape bears about 
E. by S. 4 or 5 miles, a little round rocky islet will be seen open to the 
southward. 

According to the plan given in Hawkesworth's book of Voyages, 
there is an anchorage to the north-east of cape Providence ; it is, however, 
too much out of the way, as well as too much exposed to southerly winds, 
to be of use, or to offer security to vessels bound through the strait. 
When this part was examined in the Nassau the kelp was found to 
extend nearly all the way from the south side of Tamar harbour to cape 
Providence, so that the place would be dangerous to make in heavy weather. 

SOUKB ZB&AMD, between capes Providence and Tamar, is very 
easily distinguished from the others near it, and is a very good fixing mark: 
all along that part of the reach. There is said to be a well-sheltered, 
anchorage, but with deep water, in a bay to the N. W. of Round island ; the 
channel in, being between that island and another west of it which lies close 
to the shore, hauling round the latter to the mouth of a cove, in the entrance 
of which near the south shore there are 23 fathoms, sand. We did not; 



CHAP. II.] EOUND ISLAND. — POBT TAMAE* 67 

go into this cove, bat firom the outside it appeared too much choked with 
small islets and rocks to be of use for a large Tessel, and with port Tamar 
BO near it would be of little value, 

. Aatrfte mock, on which the French frigate Astrie struck on her passage 
to Valparaiso in October 1868, lies l-^ miles S. 23'' E. from the S.W. 
point of Tamar island, with cape Tamar bearing N.E. by E. ^ E. There 
seems no reason to doubt that the Astrie rock, and the doubtful danger 
long marked as the Diamond rock, are one and the same, and that the 
position given by Admiral Clou^ of the Astrie is the correct one ; the 
position therefore should have been given S.S.E. from the western 
extremity of Tamar island, instead of cape Tamar ; and this seems the 
more certain, as on the bearing given, cape Tamar is on a level with the 
high land of Tamar island, and consequently oould not be distinguished by 
any one who did not know the land well, and by them only in certain lights. 
The Diamond rock was searched for during a whole afternoon by our steam 
cutter, and the Nassau and Ringdove together steamed from port 
Tamar straight for it, and passed its supposed position abreast each other on 
a perfectly clear day, when any break on a rock must have been seen, 

OAJTB TAMABt 9^ miles northward of cape Providence, is high, and 
coining from the westward shows aa an extreme of land on the north 
side immediately after the strait is entered. Going from the eastward, 
unless a vessel is far over on the north shore, the extreme of Tamar island 
will show outside the cape. 

Between capes Providence and Tamar the land bends inward about 4 
miles, and forms a bay, which Captain Stokes describe^ as containing 
two large bights. In the eastern one are several small islands, of which 
two are conspicuous ; they are of good height, and well wooded, and at a 
distance appear conical, the eastern one being the lower. Between them 
is a passage, which leads into what Skyring considers two good anchorages. 
As before remarked, the whole of this coast was thickly fringed with kelp, 

VOST TAJKA&, an excellent anchorage on the eastern side of cape 
Tamar, is about a mile wide at the entrance, and half a mile deep. 
Approaching port Tamar from the eastward care must be taken not to 
close the land too far east of the port, on account of Perdva reef; as 
however, this and all other dangers are buoyed by kelp, there is no real 
difficulty to be apprehended. If it is not blowing hard it is perhaps best 
to enter to the westward of Dolphin island ; but in strong westerly winds 
it would be better for a steamer to pass under the lee of the island and 
enter the port between it and Byron point.* 



* Sw Flan of Port Tamar on, Adx&iralty sheet, No. 597. 

E 2 



68 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — ^WESTERN PART. [chap. n. 

There is a remarkable white patch about one-third way up the green »ide 
of the mountainous land forming the coast of the bay, and by keeping this 
on the line of W. ^ S. until the beach on the east side of the bay opens, 
leads clear of all danger and into a very good anchorage. The Beagle is 
reported to have struck on a sunken rock with only 9 feet water, bearing 
E. by S. \ S. from the white patch above mentioned; but we were 
unable to find it. The best anchorage is between Spencer island and John 
point, in about 15 fathoms ; here the Nassau and Ringdove rode out a 
very heavy gale together in perfect safety. 

TJkMAK ZB&AxrB, lying off the west side of cape Tamar, is high and 
separated from the cape by a deep channel half a mile wide ; there are 
several rocks off the south-west end of Tamar island, the outer one being 
about half a mile distant ; the sea breaks heavily upon them with westerly 
winds. Abreast of this cape, Magellan strait is 7 miles wide; at cape 
Phillip further to the westward the breadth increases to 15 miles, and at 
cape Parker it narrows again to 12 miles, which breadth it preserves to the 
western entrance. 

PO&T CBntsvcAp on the southern side of the strait, affords very good 
anchorage for large steamers, and seems preferable to port Tamar for a 
vessel leaving the strait at cape Pillar. Its entrance bears South from the 
west extreme of Tamar island, and S.E. by E. \ E. from Westminster 
hall ; it is very well marked by a large glacier, the only one in the 
vicinity, which is nearly over the anchorage, and has a remarkable sharp 
peak rising above it. The glacier will not be seen from the westward till 
the entrance is well open. Port Churruca is more properly an inlet with two 
anchorages in it ; it trends to the southward about 2 miles, and then turning 
south-east continuing nearly as far in that direction, where it is separated by 
a low narrow neck lom another inlet which comes in from the southward.* 

There are two islets off the west entrance of the inlet, and several a little 
forther in on the east side ; passing these a smaller one will be seen off the 
inner point south ; this must be left on the starboard hand, and the bay in 
which is the first anchorage will open on the port hand when the islet is 
passed; the anchorage is in 18 to 20 fathoms water off the entrance of this 
bay. By continuing further up the inlet instead of turning in for the above, 
an anchorage in about the same depth of water will be found off the sandy- 
beach on the starboard side ; but imless space is required for more than one 
vessel it seems useless going further in than necessary. 

Nassau anchorage is perfectly landlocked and sheltered, and there is no 
danger of any kind. 

Tides. — ^It is high water, full and change in this part of the strait, at 3h., 
♦ See Plan of Port Churrucai on Admiralty sheet, No. 657. 



CHAP. II.] PORT CHURBUCA. — SHOLL BAY. 69 

and the rise and fiJl in port Tamar is 5 feet, and a little less in port 
Churruca. The flood tide on this part of the northern shores of the strait 
sets to the eastward, and rarely exceeds half a knot 

0&ACZB& and ZCT somTOB. — ^Between capes Tamar and Phillip, a 
fipace of 12 miles, there is a deep bight with two openings, the easternmost 
of which, containing Glacier and Icy sounds, extends to the north-east for 
10 miles irom the mouth, and the westernmost is the commencement of 
Smyth channel, which may be navigated by steamers for more than 
300 miles in perfect safety. 

Tbe stranriers are a long group of rocks extending a considerable 
distance to the south-west from a line between cape Phillip and Tamar 
island. 

SBO&ib BAT, in which the Bectgle anchored in 18279 is under the 
north-east side of cape Phillip, the western point of entrance to Smyth 
channel. Of this place Captain Stokes says, " We found here excellent 
anchorage in 15 fathoms; it is valuable for vessels working through the 
strait to the westward, inasmuch as from the discontinuous nature of the 
northern shore (which here is formed into deep bays) this place will be 
much more easily recognised than the anchorage on the opposite coast ; 
besides which the winds hang here in general somewhat to the northward 
of west, hence a better starting place for the westward is obtained. Here 
as in every anchorage in the strait, water and fuel are easily procured, but 
nothing more, unless we except some berries, celery, mussels, and limpets. 
The wild goose abounds here, but its nauseous taste renders it uneatable. No 
inhabitants, no quadrupeds."* 

It is, in £act, almost impossible to mistake the position of Shell bay, as 
cape Phillip and St. Ann's peak, the latter raising 1,500 feet above the 
centre of the bay, are excellent marks. Although this anchorage is confined, 
with several rocks off it, it is secure inside, and will be found very advan- 
tageous for steamers going through Smyth channel. Nearly three-quarters 
of a mile eastward of the south point of the bay there is a small islet 
(Flat rock) 5 feet above high water, which will not be distinguished until 
it is open of cape Philip, and as the shoal water off it extends more than a 
mile to the southward, care should be taken to sight the rock before 
closing the land too much. Northward of Flat rock at 4 and 6 cables 
distant are two detached rocks just awash at high water, with shoal ground 
half a mile beyond them to the northward, and a mile E.N.E. of the Flat 
rock is a 5-£Bkthom patch discovered by Captain Freycinet of the French 

♦ See Plan of ShoU Bay, on Admiralty Chart, Smyth channel, No. 631. The kelp 
goose, which is never edible, is the only one found in the western strait or northern chan- 
nels. We always met Indians here, and they seemed to live pretty constantly in Deep 
jiarboor. B.C.M. 



70 MAGELLAN STBAIT. — ^WESTBEN PABT. [chap.ii. 

war-steamer Talisman. All these dangers ore well marked by kdp^ 
but a vessel shotdd not approach Flat rock within 1^ miles on its eastern or 
northern side. 

After rounding Tamar island, steer North until Saint Ann's peak is 
distinguished, when keep a point to the eastward of it until the other 
features of the land can be made out. Off Robert point (the north point 
of the bay) is a group of small rooky islets, for which steer until within 
half a mile of them, when a larger islet (Moss) westward of Robert 
point will show itself; then keep close along the shore of Moss islet until 
its western extreme bears N.E. ^ N. distant 1^ cables, which is the best 
anchorage for a large ship. A small yessel may feel her way in much further, 
keeping clear of the kelp. There is a channel into the bay from the 
southward inside Flat rock, but the very bad ' weather we experienced 
prevented us from examining it carefrdly, and it is therefore unadvisable to 
take it. In calm weather it would be necessary to moor here, but with 
westerly winds single anchor with a long scope of cham is preferable. 

The squalls come over the land with terrific force, but the water is perfectly 
smooth, and the Nassau rode out two very heavy gales in this bay at 
single anchor. In an easterly gale no ship should think of going into Sholi 
bay, as it is perfectly open, but should either run out of the strait before it, 
or stop at port Churruca. About 1^ miles south-east of the Freycinet 
rock, i£i a kelp patch, on which 5 £a.thoms were found, but its position was 
not accurately determined owing to its being too thick to obtain angles, and 
the bearings not agreeing. 

Tbe 80VTS COAST of SBA saACH, between cape Upright and Valen- 
tine harbour (the Desolation harbour of Narborough) was carefully examined 
by the Nassau* Between cape Upright and point Felix, port Churruca is 
the only good anchorage. Immediately west of Upright bay is the bay and 
inlet called ** Alquilgua ** on our charts, in which there is no anchorage, it 
being frill of rocks and islets. The next opening lai^ enough to ofier any 
hope of a harbour runs in from point Echenique, 6 or 7 miles further west^ 
Point Echenique we found to be an island, and entering on its west side 
by a narrow but deep channel, we steamed in more than a milci getting no 
bottom at 60 &thoms, wherever there was room for a ship to swing. We 
could see nothing resembling port Uriarte (see Spanish plan), all tbe 
openings between Alpuilgua and Echenique being very small. 

No signs of a decent port could be found where Churruca marks Santa 
Monica ; indeed the whole of the coast from Upright to Felix on tlie 
Spanish chart, was unintelligible, except the position of port Churruca. 
If as supposed the inlet we entered is their <^ Canal de la Tempestad/' they 
have made an inlet too many, and the projecting point of that part of tlie 
coast, which they must have meant to call Echenique, is that of the island at its 



CHAP. ».] S. COAST OF SEA BEAOH. — TXTESDAY BAY. 71 

entrance. The Santa Monica of Sarmiento is evidently Upright bey. 
Churrnca himself does not feel quite satisfied about this part, for he says 
they kept the names, " although the description we had by that voyager, 
(Sarmiento,) did not altogether satisfy us." 

Barby Cove, just outside port Churruca, is sheltered from westerly 
winds, but is too small for anything larger than a schooner. 

▼AibBWTnrB SAXBomi. — ^From Darby cove the coast trends to the 
westward 7 miles, having in the interval several indentations^ but all with 
deep water. At Felix point the land turns in to the south-west, and forms 
a bay 5 miles wide and 2^ deep. At its western side is Valentine har- 
bour, in which the Beagle anchored, but it is a poor place. The entrance 
is narrow between kelp covered rocks, and the anchorage very confined. 
The Nassau could get no bottom at 2Q fathoms in the centre, and even 
there she could barely swing. Hauling round cape Valentine there are some 
islets extending half a mile from it, with several rocks off them, which, 
however, are all marked by kelp. 

Felix point is high, and shows as an extreme from either side ; it must not 
be approached too closely, as a rocky ledge covered by kelp extends off it 
for nearly a mile. 

CAPB ciTBVAS, lying 2 miles north-west of cape Valentine, is the 
extremity of an island close to the shore, about 250 feet high. To the 
eastward, between the two capes, the coast forms a bay studded with islands 
whilst to the westward it is broken into several small bays. 

TBirBZ&&o BA.Tf the first good anchorage west of Churruca, is well 
sheltered, but carries deep water rather near the shore. As it did not seem 
so good as Tuesday bay, which was close to it, no plan was made of it.* 

TVBBBAT BAT, the next to the westward of Truxillo, is for this 
region an excellent port, thoroughly well sheltered, and easy of access for 
the largest steamers, though the entrance is rather narrow for a vessel to 
beat in. The port bears W. by S. \ S. from Tamar summit ; but cape 
Cortado, which may be said to form its western entrance, is quite unmis- 
takeable going either way along the southern shore, and if a vessel is far 
out in the strait, a remarkable needle mountain over the head of the port 
marks it well. 

There is a passage on either side of Nodales islets, but that to the northward 
is the straighter and better of the two. These islets are high, and will be 
seen for some distance outside, and the Quartermasters, off the northern 
point of entrance always break. As a vessel enters head to the prevalent winds^ 

I » ■ I ■ . .Ill i ■ I ir II., 

*]See Eye Sketch of Trozillo bay and Flan of Tuesday bay, on Admiralty Sheet, 
Ko. 557. 



72 MAGELLAN STRAIT. — WESTERN PART. [chap. ii. 

Bhe can do it at easy speed, and take her time in picking up her berth when 
inside. There is anchorage in Saint Joseph bay, but it is very deep except 
close to the shore, and the best berth for a large ship is in 20 to 22 fathoms 
on the south side of the bay, and for a small one, in the Nassat^s Christ- 
mas anchorage, between the kelp at the western extremity in fix)nt of a 
small sandy beach. There is a passage leading to the southward from the 
head of the bay into a large basin, in which, however, the water is too deep 
for anchorage. 

Tuesday Cove, immediately outside Tuesday bay, is well sheltered, 
and might do for a schooner, but is altogether too small for a vessel of 
any size. 

No vessel proceeding to the westward should pass Tuesday bay without a 
certainty of clearing the strait before night, as it is the westernmost safe 
port, and only 13 miles from cape Pillar. 

CAVB COST ABO (cut off) is a perpendicular rock 100 to 150 feet high, 
well deserving its name ; it is quite steep-to. 

From this to cape Pillar the coast the whole way is foul and dangerous 
The rocks lie off Mercy harbour to a distance of 2 or 3 miles, and a wide 
berth should therefore be given. Going to the westward from Tuesday 
bay a vessel should not steer westward of N.W. by W. \ W. until she has 
passed port Mercy ; and coming from sea should be very careful not to 
get down on the southern shore. If the land is visible cape Cuevas 
should be kept outside cape Cortado, or Cortado never brought «to bear 
eastward of E.S.E. After passing Mercy harbour, Cortado will show as a 
near extreme, and cape Cuevas, though really an island, as said, shows like 
a promontory joined to the main by a low neck, over which will be seen 
another point which projects beyond it. 

SKTxnro BABBOVB, 3 miles westward of Cortado; is perfectly 
sheltered when inside, but there are several rocks off its entrance, and it 
is very narrow and confined. Having got in there on one occasion in the 
Nassau in a heavy gale we had great difficulty in getting out again, owing 
to the limited space and the fury of the williwaws. 

POBT MBBcnr. — ^At 3^ miles westward from the western point of 
Skyring harbour is Mercy head, the eastern point of entrance of the harbour 
of that name. Port Mercy (the Puerto de la Misericordia of Sarmiento, and 
the Spanish harbour of Wallis) is the most dangerous harbour in the whole 
strait, and one to be carefully avoided by a mariner. When once inside 
the port the anchorage is fair, but the off-lying dangers are such as to 
render its entry extremely hazardous.* 

♦ See Plan of Port Mercj, on Admiralty sheet, No. 557. 



J 



CHJLP.u.] PORT MERCY. — CAPE PARKER. 73 

With such a good harbour as Tuesday bay within 9 miles, no vessel 
is justified in going into port Mercy. Her Majesty's ship Sutlej'j in 
February 1863, having got safely in was almost lost inside; and in 1857 
the Chilian Government sent down the steamer Maria Isabella to 
relieve the crew of a barque which had been wrecked here, and the 
steamer was also wrecked in the entrance. StiU later in 1869 the 
F.S.N. Co.'s steamer Santiago was lost on a rock outside those marked on 
the chart, and on which the Nassau narrowly escaped being lost a fortnight 
before. Should circumstances, however, render it absolutely necessary to 
enter this dangerous place, abreast the first bight round Misericordia point 
is as good a berth as any other. 

Here, as in many ports, it will not be found advisable to get too close up 
to the weather corner of the harbour with a view of being sheltered from 
the strength of the squalls, as they are usually less felt when a little 
further off, 

CAPB pn&AR, the south point of the western entrance of the strait, is a 
high cape showing from the eastward as a double nipple. Churruca describes 
it very well, thus ; . " Cape Pillar, though conspicuous for its height, is more 
so on account of tlie two peaks which rise from its summit with an inclina- 
tion to the N.W. ; the eastern and highest one belongs to a mountain from 
which the cape springs, but the western one is a kind of tower, the base of 
which we saw on the shore west of the cape, and is of a form to which the 
name Pillar might reasonably be given. The extremity common to the strait 
and Pacific ocean is a large detached rock which shows the disposition of the 
strata of which it and the cape are formed. That part of the cape which 
is washed by the waters of the strait presents a round hill not very high 
and whose figure is almost semicircular, while the western part exposed to 
the force of the whole Pacific Ocean, exhibits large excavations made by 
the sea in the rock. The eastern and highest peak is 1,395 feet high, the 
western is 1,287."* 

CAFB PARXBR, on the north shore of the strait, is a remarkable projec- 
tion with three hummocks on a ridge of high land which rises behind it. 
To the eastward the coast bends deeply into the north, forming Parker 
bay, in which there appeared to be several islands and a narrow opening, 
perhaps a channel leading to the northward. Up this bay the steamer 
JFhsforo, commanded by Mr. W. Hall, proceeded N.N.E. for 8 miles. 
There is anchorage to the eastward of the south-east point of the cape, but 
it is fronted by a considerable shoal with two islets. 

Captain Stokes stopped here, but called it an unsafe anchorage, and 

♦ Ult Viage, App., p. 76. 



74 MAGELLAN STRAIT — ^WESTBRK PABT. [ohap.ii. 

therefore the natural conclusion id that Shell bay on the north, and Tuesday 
bay on the south, are the westernmost safe anchorages in Magellan strait. 

•wmBTMntrsrmaL BAXiXi. — ^The land of cape Parker fwill probably 
prove to be an island. To the westward of it commences a range of islandSi 
rocks, and shoals, fronting a broken coast that should never be approached 
but for the purpose of discovery or seal fishery. The easternmost of these 
islands is a high rock named Westminster hall, and to the westward are 
two or three other conspicuous points which might be noticed, such as the 
Cupola and Observation mount. The Beagle ran in amongst the breakers 
and anchored near the latter for the purpose of ascertaining its position 
and obtaining bearings for the survey. 

mxM jroHV ir ABBOBOvaB xa&AirBB. — This chain consists of eight or 
nine large islands, and hundreds of small ones. Behind them there seemed 
to be a channel, and amongst them are several anchorages, but none to be 
recommended, especially as on the south coast there are two or three 
much better, safer, and easier of access. Their north-western point is 
cape Victoria, in lat. 52° 16' 10" S., long. 74o 54' 39" W., which may be 
considered as the north-west point of entrance to the strait of 1N4 agellan. 

This is all a dangerous coast, as well from the great number of rocks, 
upon which the sea breaks very high, as from the tides, which near the 
edge of the line of shoals frequently set in amongst them. 

SOS WAXQMUMVAMf Consisting of four rocky ielets and some detached 
rocks and breakers, lie 11 miles S.S.W. ^ W. from cape Victory. They 
were thus named by the early Spanish navigators, but they were called the 
Islets of Direction by Narborough from their forming an excellent mark 
from tlie western mouth of the strait. The islets are very rugged and 
barren, and suited only to afford a resting place or breeding haunt for seals 
and oceanic birds, but a landing place may be found on one of them, and 
anchorage among them if necessary. The largest and highest may be seen 
in tolerably clear weather from a vessel's deck, at the distance of 4 or -5 
leagues. The southernmost, from its shape called the Sugar-loaf, is in lat. 
52° 24' S., long. 75° 6' 40" W., and bears from the extremity of cape Pillar 
N.W. by W. 1 W. 23 miles. 

Tides are here very variable, and sometimes set towards the rocks that 
front cape Victory and the Narborough chain. Captain Stokes remarked 
a current of about 2 knots here, when 4 or 5 miles west of cape Pillar 
and somewhat southward of it. It is high water full and change at one 
o'clock, and the tide rises about 4 feet. 



75 



CHAPTER III. 

CHANNELS FBOM WEST END OF MAGELLAN STRAIT 

TO GULr or PENAS. 



Yabiation is 1871. 

SboU Bay - 23* 1(/ £. I English Narrows - 21'' 5' E. 

Conceptioii Strait- 23 20 E. | GulfofFenas - - 21 20 E. 



u — The western coast of Patagonia, or south- 
western coast of Chili, between Magellan strait and the gulf of Penas, is 
formed by a succession of islands of considerable extent, the largest of which, 
Wellington island, fronts a length of coast of 138 miles, and is separated 
from the main by Messier and Wide channels, and from Madre island by 
the gulf of Trinidad. Madre island, which is probably composed of several 
islands, has for its inner or eastern boundary the Concepcion channel.* 

Hanover island has the Inocentes and Estevan channels on its northern 
and eastern sides, and on the south is separated from Queen Adelaide 
archipelago by Nelson strait, which communicates through Smyth channel 
with the strait of Magellan. The general features of these channels are 
high abrupt shores, with innumerable peaks and headlands remarkably 
alike in character; their bold rugged heads giving an appearance of 
■gloomy grandeur rarely seen elsewhere. The shores are generally steep-to, 
and the channels for the most part open and free, whilst the few dangers 
that exist are invariably marked by kelp. The tides are regular and 
not strong, except in the English narrows. 

SnppUes. — Throughout the whole space between Magellan strait and the 
gulf of Penas there is abundance of wood and water, and almost every- 
where most excellent mussels, which are not to be despised when scalloped. 
The whole extent is thickly wooded; but from the almost continuous 
drenching rain in the southern part, the wood must be well dried on 
board before it can be used as fuel. Northward of the English narrows 
the wood is generally not so saturated. 



* See Admiralty chart, Smyth channel, South entrance to Fortune bay, No. 631 ; scale* 
m » 1 inch. 



76 CHANNELS TO GULF OP PE?fAS. [chap. m. 



cwuumwoLy communicating with Magellan strait through the 
opening between cape Phillip and the Fairway islets, extends 45 miles 
in a N.N.W. direction to Victory pass, and then W. by N. ^ N. 30 miles 
into Nelson strait. 

After rounding Tamar island a vessel should steer about N.N.W. for 4 or 
5 miles before edging away to the northward, as with the prevalent strong 
westerly winds she is liable to be set to the eastward. As she proceeds, 
St. Ann's peak, the Stragglers, and Fairway islets will soon come in sight 
if the weather be clear, and even in the driving squalls usuaUy ex- 
perienced in this locality, glimpses of them sufficient to obtain bearings 
will be obtained from time to time. 

In moderate weather a vessel should edge away at the above distance, 
and steer North, keeping the Fairway islets open on the starboard bow ; 
but in heavy westerly gales, unless she hafi great power, it is advisable 
to keep on the N.N.W. course until well over on the weather shore, and 
then coast along. As the Fairway islands are approached, Ancud point 
will show, and the passage is midway between the two. As they are passed 
the channel, from one to 1^ miles wide, opens, and some small islets showing 
as three peaks, 70 or 80 feet high, will be seen on the western shore ; 
these may be passed within 2 or 3 cables, and the Green islands and 
Benouard summit (800 feet high) will show up. From this onwards through 
the whole extent of the channels, the chart and eye must be the principal 
guides, as it is impossible to give a description of channels so narrow and 
tortuous with sufficient exactness to guide a mariner without them. 

The following description is intended only for steamers, which alone 
should attempt to make this passage ; with care steamers of the largest 
class may go through with perfect safety. All the American mail steamers 
frequenting the Pacific, some of them upwards of 4,000 tons, pass through 
this way ; and in the beginning of 1869, Admiral Clou6, the French com- 
mander-in-chief, took the frigate Astree through without any difficulty. 
Anchorages may always be had if judgment be exercised, and the vessel 
not pushed on till too late in the day to pick one up ; and even should no 
anchorage be obtained, the shores, excepting in one or two places, are so 
bold and steep-to, that a vessel may safely remain under way all night. 

In the Nassau on one occasion we were caught in this way by the non- 
existence of an anchorage marked on the chart, and we continued on our 
course under easy speed all night without any danger as far as the land was 
concerned, though the floating ice out of Eyre sound gave us some severe 
blows. In the event of being so caught, and not liking to continue on the 
course, it is advisable to send a party on shore to keep a fire burning all 
night, and the sea is seldom so heavy as to prevent boats landing on one 
shore or the other in safety. 



CHAP, in.] SMYTH CHANNEL. — BURGOYNE BAY. 77 

The largest Fairway island, is so much higher than the others that they 
only show when open of it. There are four peaks, which appear very well 
defined from either north wardor southward, the highest being 115 feet high. 

abynoli Book, lying a little more than 3 cables from the north end of the 
largest island, is awash at low water. The kelp extends from the islands 
almost to the rock. 

DBBP BAXBOVS is the first anchorage on the western shore of Smyth 
channel, 6 miles northward of ShoU bay, or 3 miles from the Fairway islets. 
This harbour was surveyed by Skyring, and was not re-examined by the 
NassaUy as it is of little service to vessels of the present day. The 
entrance is a quarter of a mile wide, and the anchorage about half a mile 
within the first head, off the entrance of a lagoon, in 30 to 35 fathoms. 
North and south of the port are inlets, each one mile deep. On entering, 
there is a kelp patch on the starboard hand, and the shore is fronted for a 
short distance by rocks. 

BUBaOTWB BAT, 4 miles northward of Deep harbour, and on the 
opposite shore, has anchorage in it, though it cannot be called good on 
account of its depth ; there is no danger, however, which does not show, 
and the Nassau steamed round it without difficulty. The bottom was very 
uneven, varying from 40 to 12 fathoms, but near the shore in some parts 
anchorage might be had with a stern hawser to a tree, and as it is perfectly 
landlocked, there would be no danger in this. Hugh head, a bare height, 
200 or 300 feet high over the north side of the bay, marks its entrance. 

Pyiades Bay was not surveyed, but it appeared deep. 

Antoine Bay has no danger in it, but there is not room for anchorage, 
except by going to the head and making fast to the shore. 

CK>OBS and BTOBTB BATS are both unfit for long ships, as indeed are all 
the anchorages between ShoU and Otter bays, and a vessel going north- 
ward should not pass port Tamar or Shell bay without being sure of reach- 
ing Otter bay. We found a small bight in North bay, where we were able 
to hold on for two or three days with hawsers out on each side, and fortu- 
nately it remained calm ; had there been any wind we should have been 
obliged to leave the place. Passing Benouard island, the course lies 
between Shoal island and the eastern of the Evans group, between 
Bichards and Simpson islands, and then N.W. by N. so as to leave Pearse 
and Alert rocks and Shearwater islets on the starboard hand. Benouard 
ibland may be passed on either side, but as Hull islets block up that 
passage to the northward, it is preferable to pass it to the eastward. From 
cape Colworth until Otter islands are approached there is no danger. 

is large and well sheltered, but the water is too deep for 



78 CHANNELS TO GULP OF PENAS, [OHAP.ni. 

a good anchorage, no bottom being" obtainable at 30 &thom8 until so close 
to the shore that a large ship could not swing. 

B08B KASBOnt is entered through a long narrow passage, and looked 
most tempting at first sights but when the lead went down to 60 fEithoms 
without touching the bottom, within 2 cables of the shore all roundy it was 
naturally deemed to be useless. 

Tandy Bay has anchorage for a small craft on its northern side in kelp, 
but it and Oake baj are so near the far preferable anchorage of Otter bay 
as to render them practicaUj useless. 

Oake Bay is the best of these wayside stopping places, but aa above 
remarked valueless on account of its proximity to Otter bay, 

ICATBB and OBAT OBAWB&B. — ^As the Otter islands are approached 
from the southward the Connor islets will show on the port hand, and the 
summit of Campbell island, 190 feet high^ will be distinguished over the 
lower land of the island in front of it. Here a vessel arrives at the only 
shoal place in the whole extent of these channels, and even here nothing 
less thitfi 10 fathoms need be had. There are two channels around Otter 
and Summer islands, the eastern one, Mayne channel, though the shoaler 
of the two, being the one which will be generally preferred by vessels not 
drawing more than 25 to 26 feet. The western one, Gray channel, though 
deeper is narrower than Mayne channel, but except in very thick weather 
it is a safe passage, as all the dangers are well marked by kelp."* 

Oft Bedwell island^ and between it and Dashwood point, there is a ridge 
with 8 to 10 fathoms water, and here a ship going northward through the 
Mayne channel will first strike bottom ; the ridge is narrow, and after 
crossing it the water deepens until the bank between Summer and Long 
island is reached. On this latter bank the deepest water is 6^ fathoms 
at low water, and the channel is exactly midway between the two islands. 
This bank appears to be silting up, as 10 fathoms was the least water 
marked in the old chart by Skyring. 

Going northward, as Bedwell island is passed, Bradbury islet will show 
and when past it should be brought right astern, and the ship steered 
N.W. until the shoal water is past, after which the coast of Long island 
may be followed at a mile distant. €k>ing south the northernmost of the 
Francis islets off Fortune bay should be brought right astern, and a S.E. 
course steered for the shoal water until within about a mile of Bradbury 
islet, when a vessel should haul to the southward so as to pass midway 
between the east side of Bedwell island and Dashwood point. 

Gray channel leading westward of the Otter and Summer islands is 

* See FlaQ of Mayne and Gray obaimels, scale, m » 2 inches, in Admiral^ chart, 
No. SSI. 



CHiF.ni.] MATNE ANB GRAY CHANKELS. — OTTER BAY. 79 

deeper than the Majne channel, but is much narrower and more intricate ; 
in fine weather, however, a veosel may, if desired, pass through it in perfect 
safety, by keeping dear of the kelp by which all the dangers are marked. 
The two kelp patches off Yereker and Foley islands can be passed on 
either side, and going northward the left extreme of Hoskyn islet should 
be steered for until within 3 or 4 cables, then keep for the right extreme 
of Orlebar island until the narrow is passed. A N. by £• course will then 
lead clear of Cutter rock and up the channeL 



\ formed by the three southernmost of the Otter islands, has 
very good anchorage in 6 or 7 fathoms, well sheltered, but confined for a 
very large vessel. In entering the bay the eastern shore of the western 
(Cunningham) island should be kept on board until well inside, when two 
or three small islets will open on the starboard hand, and the Boat channel 
to the northward between Cunningham and Campbell island will also be 
open. As soon as the small islets above mentioned show, steer for them 
and anchor when the N.W. and N.E. ends of Cunningham and Campbell 
islands are in line. Very large vessels had better anchor on the bank 
between Summer and Long island.* 

There is no ship passage between the Otter and Summer islands ; indeed 
most of this part dries at low water. The western shore along this part 
of the channel is high and steep, as both sides become a little further to 
the northward, but the eastern shore is very low as far as the base of 
mount Bumey, which is 5,800 feet high and covered with perpetual snow. 
The summit of this magnificent mountain is rarely visible, biit should a 
passer by be fortunate enough to have a clear day, he will not easily forget 
the magnificence of the scene. 

Bartweil Bay may have anchorage among its numerous islands, but it 
is out of the way, and as there is no ship passage to the eastward of Long 
island is practically useless. 

voBTmns BAT in Baverstock island is a fair anchorage for a small 
vessel, but too confined for a large one. Low island should be passed to the 
southward, and care should be taken both on going out and coming in to 
give the Adeona rock a wide berth, as the kelp extends a long way off it. 

iSTBBnrs BAT one of the best anchorages in the strait or channels, is 
perfectly safe for the largest vessels. On the western side are several 
reefs, but they are all marked by kelp ; and the Labouchere rock 
breaks when there is any sea. By keeping on the eMtem side the passage 
will be found perfectly clear, and a vessel may select almost any depth 
for anchon^e, 

* See Flan of Otter and Fortune bays, on Admiralty chart, No. 631. 



I 



80 CHANNELS TO GULE OF PBNAS. [chap. in. 

If not deemed desirable to go far in, a ship passing a cable off Trivett 
point, and steering N. by W. for half a mile will find good anchorage in 
20 fathoms, mud, with Self point, the western extreme, bearing about 
S.W. by W. ; or if preferred she may go a cable or two farther in on 
nearly the same course. The most secure anchorage, however, is in 
14 to 16 fathoms, sand, in the inner bay inside Allen point ; for this 
continue a N. by W. course from Trivett point until Hurlow islet bears 
W.S.W., when keep N.W. for about 2 cables until the South extreme of 
Mallet bay shows well outside Ives point, whence N. ^ E. leads to the 
anchorage.* 

BCaUet Bay is too shoal to be of much use. From its head there is an 
Indian trail across to Oracion bay, a distance of only 200 yards. This is 
evidently a canoe portage, as logs are laid all along it as rollers. Both 
wind and sea sweeps into Oracion bay with considerable force, so that 
anyone crossing this neck can get a good notion of what the weather is in 
the channel, while the ship is lying quietly in Isthmus harbour. 

SAVBT and iHXar BATS. — In Sandy bay, on the eastern side of the 
channel, anchorage may be had by passing to the southward of a long patch 
of kelp, which extends from the northern point nearly in line with the 
south point, and has 4 fathoms on it. Inside this there are 18 to 20 fathoms, 
but a large ship would not find it easy to turn in and out. Ofi* Inlet bay 
anchorage may also be obtained, but with Isthmus bay so near these are 
hardly required. 

Brortbern part of Bmjtti Cbannel. — Island bay on the western side of 
Hunter island is said to offer good anchorage both to the northward and 
southward of some islets which lie off it. The Adelaide anchored here in 
17 fathoms, but Skyring does not describe it particularly. 

BABCPBB BAT, the S.W. end of Piazzi island, has also anchorage in from 
7 to 15 &ithoms. There Smyth channel widens to 3^ miles, but at 6 miles 
farther on, near Ceres island, under the S.E. end of which the Adelaide 
anchored in 10 fathoms, it narrows to 2 miles ; hence to the mouth of the 
channel, where strong N.W. winds send in a heavy sea, we know of no 
anchorages ; but a small vessel in want would no doubt find many by 
sending a boat in search. The Adelaide anchored among the Diana 
islands and in Montague bay, having steered through Hayward pass at 
the western extreme of Piazzi island. As all this, however, is quite out 
of the way of vessels wishing to reach the gulf of Penas it is desirable to 
return to the main ship channel. 

VXCTOBT VASS, Separating Zach peninsula from Hunter island, con- 
nects Smyth channel with Collingwood strait and Sarmiento channels on tho 
north, and with Union sound to the S.E. The latter leads to the Ancon 



* See Plan of Isthmiu bay, No. 2,804. 



CHAP. III.] VICTORY PASS. — COLUMBINE COVE. 81 

Sin Salida (or No thoroughfare cove) of Sarmiento, and thence through 
Kii^e narrows to Obstruction sound and Last Hope inlet, which were 
carefully examined by the Adelaide officers in the vain hope of finding an 
opening into Skyring water.* 

The only danger in Victory pass is the Cloyne reef, a circular rocky 
shoal, just awash and thickly covered with kelp : with any wind the sea 
breaks heavily on it, but in thick weather it may not be distinguished until 
close upon it. As the shore of Brinkley island is steep-to, a vessel should 
steer for it until Cloyne reef is recognised, and then pass between the reef 
and the island. The passage west of Cloyne reef, between it and Hunter 
island, is only 3 cables across ; but when the reef can be distinguished it is 
perfectly safe, and with a small power vessel, if the wind is down the 
channel, it is advisable to keep that side, so as not to go farther to leeward 
than is necessary. 

Bessei Sock lies nearly half way between Bessel point and Brinkley 
island ; it is quite out of the channel, however, and well above water. 

'"Wlliiaiii Bay in Hunter island is well sheltered and affords a good 
stopping place for boats, but there is not room in it for a vessel of any 
length. 

BULOW COVB, between the south end of Newton island and La Pla«e 
islets is about 2^ cables in extent, and has a passage in and out at either 
end ; it is much more sheltered than Columbine cove, and its only objection 
is the depth of water, the anchorage being in 24 fathoms. Coming fi'om the 
southward, this cove opens as soon as Ross point (Hunter island) is passed, 
and Catalina island may be passed on either side ; coming from the north- 
ward follow the coast of Newton island for the opening, which will appear 
between it and the largest of La Place islets, and enter the cove from the 
northward. If the usual northerly wind is blowing, however, with any 
force it will be better to pass eastward of La Place group altogether and 
enter the cove from the southward, head to wind.f 

co&VMaizirB covb, 4 miles northward of Dixon cove, is the next anchor- 
age ; it is formed by Ward peninsula, which makes the south extreme of 
Shingle road, and is a rocky knob joined to the main land by a sandy neck 
covered with trees. It is fairly sheltered, but at times the williwaws down 
the steep mountain side over it are furious. When blowing hard the vessel 
should not go into the cove, the best berth being in 15 to 16 fathoms 
water, a little outside a line joining Slader and Powlett points. 

Sbinrie Boad. — There is an anchorage in Shingle road under the northern 
point in ] 8 fathoms, and 25 a little further out, but with very little shelter. 

* See Plan of Victory pass, on Admiralty sheet, No. 2804. 
t See Plans of Dixon and Columbine Coves, on Admiralty chart, No. 2 
26634. F 



82 CHANNELS TO GULF OF PEN AS. [chap. ra. 



ro GBAirrab* communicating with Smyth channel^ through 
CoUingwood strait and Victory pass, stretches 70 miles to the northward, 
running between Fiazzi island and Staines peninsula, and then to the 
eastward of Vancouver and Esperanza islands into Feel inlet; at the 
mouth of which it unites with Estevan channel, and both merge into the 
Inocentes channel through the Quia narrows. Between CoUingwood 
strait and Sarmiento channel the passage takes a sharp turn to the west- 
ward for about 4 milesi^ but as St. Bartelome point is steep-to this bend 
need not be unnecessarily lengthened by keeping mid-channel. 

Cape Flamstead has a little rocky islet off it, but no danger outside 
this. 

In the southern end of Staines peninsula is a large hat*bour, which the 
Nassau entered with great hope ; but although we found a small patch 
with 30 fathoms water on it in the middle, everywhere else we had 
40 to 45 fathoms, too close to the shore for a vessel to lie. 

PIAXKA m&Ajn> was care^lly examined along the eastern shore. 
Three inlets or bays were entered towards the southern end, and then the 
ship was anchored as supposed where the Salamander anchored. This is 
not a fit anchorage for any vessel ; we got 7 fathoms too close to the island 
to swingi and then di'ifted off into 40 close to the shore. There is, how- 
ever, a large opening inside this which was not examined. The inlet 
north of this was not examined, but a smaller one about 3^ miles north- 
ward was found to be a very weU sheltered bay, with 15 to 20 fathoms, 
mud, in the middle. Two islets to the northward mark its entrance, and 
there is a large kelp patch, and several small rocks southward of it. In 
going in keep on the northern shore to avoid a small kelp patch nearly in 
the middle, and when in, hard a port and anchor in depth asjabove. About 
3 miles north of this again is a fairly sheltered bay which would make a 
stopping place j it is rather confined and exposed to the northward, but 
has anchorage in 7 to 9 fathoms, mud. This place is about 13 miles from 
cape St. Mateo. 

On the opposite side of the channel, south of cape Gracia^ there are two 
openings, but they appeared full of rocks and kelp, without any promise of 
anchorage ; and as Skyring says that he and Mr, Kirk carefully searched 
that part for anchorage it is to be presumed that none exists. There is a kelp 
patch off the northern of these openings, which must be avoided; it lies 
about S.W. half a mile from the N. W. point of the inlet.* 

VAiroomrsR istairo,— H,M.S. Malacca found shelter for a night 
under two islets, marked at the southern end of the second inlet in this island. 



• See voyag# of Adventure and Beagk^ vol I, page 841, et eeq. 



CHAP, in.] PIAZZI ISLAND. — PTTEETO BUENO. 83 

4 miles from its S.E. point. Mr. Hanham, of the yacht Themis^ anchored 
in the same inlet, but inside the islets marked off the N.£. point of it. He 
sajSy^^ Go south of the island, and go easj, and a good anchorage will be 
founds taking care not to shut in the rocks south of the western point of 
the entrance." With Mayne harbour so near, howeveri a steamer would 
hardly go through there. 

KATim RAJUiOua in lat 51*^ 18^' S., has an inner and outer anchoragei 
of which the inner is preferable, but both are perfectly safe and landlocked. 
The entrance is eastward of all the islands off its mouth, of which one 
(Eclipse island) is large, and four small ; a vessel may either anchor in 
13 or 14 fathoms water in the outer anchorage, or go on to the inner 
one, and select a position in 7 or 8 fathoms, mud.* 

Duck shooting may sometimes be had here. 

Lake William, situated over the head of the harbour, was not tried for 
fish. Wood suitable for steaming purposes can be cut in abundance. 

Anchorage may also be had outside the harbour, between Eclipse island 
and Richard point, in 26 fathoms, sand, but without much shelter. 

I wumOKTO vuMMOf nearly 20 miles north of Mayne harbour, on the 

eastern shore of the channel, in lat. 6V N., is an excellent port in 
which a ship may find good anchorage in 8 to 9 fathoms in the middle of 

I the harbour, or in 4 to 5 fathoms nearer the shore. Like Mayne harbour 

it is divided in two, both being perfectly safe, but the inner one of 

I course most sheltered.f 

i The entrance is between Pounds island and Hankin point. A small 

vessel may enter between Hoskins and Founds islands, but there is little to 
be gained by going in that wayi and rocks extend some distance southward 

I of Hoskins island, Hecate rock occupies an awkward position in this 

passage. 

I There is a large fresh water lake just above the inner harbour, which 

empties itself by a small cascade into a little bight at its head. 

BeHooner Oot«» just north of Hoskins island, is adapted for boats or 
very small vessels, and has a sandy beach at its head* 

ouxA. (omBa) ir axro'ww, so called after Sarmiento's boat, are between 
I Hanover and Chatham islands, and communicate with Sarmiento and 

' Liocentes channels ; they are 6 miles long, and from one to 1^ miles broad, 

except at the north end, where they are only 2 cables across, but there is 
no danger in passing, the shores being steep-to on either side. About three 
miles south of the narrows, and 1^ miles north of cape Charles, a rock was 



* See Plan of Marne Harbour, on Admiralty sheet, No. 1 10. 
t See Plan, of Puerto Baeno, on Admiralty Sheet, Ko. 3,804. 

w 2 



84 CHANNELS TO GULF OF PESTAS. [chap, m, 

reported by an American officer, but although we passed the place several 
times in the Nassau, we could not see it. To be on the safe side, how- 
ever, it would be better to pass close to cape Charles, and keep along the 
eastern shore at this point. 

There is a little cove under Ladder hill, in which H.M.S. Malacca spent 
a night, but it is quite unfit for anything but a schooner or gunboat, and 
not good for these. The Nassau lost an anchor-stock there on the rocks, and 
H.M.S. RingdovCy after losing her anchor, steamed for Unfit bay, and made 
fast with hawsers for the night, with 5^ fathoms under the bows, and 3 
fathoms under the quarter ; the rise and fall being about 4 feet. 

irnfit bay is too deep to be good for anchorage, but in fine weather a 
vessel can make fast as the Ringdove did. 

Tides. — The tidal streams in Guia narrows are not very rapid, but they are 
somewhat more so than in the Sarmiento or Wide channels, where their 
force is hardly felt. It is high water, full and change, at 2 h. 10 m., and 
the flood here makes to the southward, while in the Sarmiento channel and 
southward of that, the flood makes north. 

Ckiard Bay. — The west coast of Chatham island has many bights and 
coves, fronted by islands, among which is Guard bay, where the Adelaide 
anchored, but the coast is too exposed to the sea and to the prevailing 
winds to offer much convenience, or even secure shelter. The north-west 
eads of Hanover and Chatham islands are more than 10 miles apart, and 
midway between them is Inocentes island of Sarmiento, from which the 
channel takes its name. 

coircBPCZOir CBAirxrB& separating Madre islands from the main 
land, commences at Inocentes island, and joins the Wide channel (Braze 
Ancho of Sarmiento) in lat. 50° 5' S. On the eastern coast of Madre 
island there are several anchorages, viz.. Walker bay, Molyneux sound, 
Michael bay to the northward of Michael point and Tom bay ; all of 
which being on the weather shore aflbrd secure anchorage ; but the 
squalls offthe high land are not less felt than in other parts. 

"WA&XBB BAT has anchorage, b.ut is confined for a large ship. The 
kelp patches there are well marked, and a vessel may pass between them 
in 7^ fathoms, or if she prefers going round both she will have 40 fathoms. As 
these patches are approached, a bay is opened to the north-west, and the 
anchorage is in the N. E. comer of this bay. In the western part of the same 
bay 12 fathoms were obtained in a good berth, but it deepened immediately 
to 20 or 24. We then entered the next bay to the westward, round a point, 
and got 25 fathoms close to the shore, and after that crossed to some islands 
on the opposite side of the inlet to what looked like an anchorage, but "got 
12 fathoms, and 25 next cast ; inside which there was not room even for the 



CHAP, m.] WALKER BAY.— ANDREW CHANNEL. 85 

Nassau, The coast of Madre island seems very incorrectly laid down, so 
that it is difficult to recognise any particular sound. The kelp patches are 
the best marks for Walker bay and Molyneux sound. 

MO&TiTBVZ SOWD is the best of the four indentations. Vessels on 
entering should pass to the southward of the two kelp patches, marked 
in the chart ; they are covered with kelp, but when the water is ruffled 
by wind it does not show well. After passing this haul up to the northward 
for the beach, which opens, and 2 to 3 cables off it 20 fathoms^ mud, may 
be had, whilst further out 24 fathoms will be found with the N.E. point 
bearing S. 40° E. 

In connexion with the anchorages in Molyneux sound, Nav. Sub. Lieut. 
Jones, H.M.S. Ringdove remarks : — Anchorage may also be had near an 
island at the head of the sound in 21 fathoms, good holding ground, sand 
and mud, whence the highest hill at the head of the sound bears N. W. ^ N., 
centre of island W. by S., and the entrance points S.S.E. f E., and 
S.E. \ E. The sound is about '4 miles long by 3 miles broad. 

TOM BAT is a misnomer, as the only anchorage is off and between 
three islands, though there is a small sort of bay farther in. A vessel 
may anchor off the south point of the outer island, when it bears about 
N. E., or farther in 15 to 16 fathoms, with the south point of the island 
E. by N. ^ N., and the outer rocky islet forming the south side of the 
anchorage S.E. by S. The passages between the islands are all blocked for 
ships.* 

ikxmtxw SOVITD is an opening running to the eastward on the east side 
of Concepcion channel^ and at the distance of 18 miles from the entrance 
it is divided into two arms, the northern one, San Andres bay, being 5 or 
6 leagues long to the foot of the hills ; whilst the southern arm, Pitt 
channel, passing eastward of Chatham island, communicates with Peel inlet. 
The entrance of the sound is to the southward of the Canning islets, 
in the northernmost of which, at the south-west point, is Portland bay, 
which Skyring describes as "a tolerably sheltered bay, open only from 
S.E. to S.W., but those winds being frequent and violent, and the bay 
exposed to a long reach of sea from that quarter, it cannot be accounted 
a safe harbour ."f 

Bzpeotatlon Bay is a little anchorage ^ leagues within the sound at the 
eastern extremity of the Kentish isles, and was used by the Adelaide 
in the examination of these inlets. 

(Brazo Ajicho) of Sarmiento, commences at Brazo 



* See Eye sketch of Tom bay, on Admiralty Chart, No. 23. 
t See Voyage of Adventure and Beagle^ vol. 1, p. 838*49. 



86 CHANNELS TO GULF OF FENA8. [chap. m. 

Ancho point, the north-east extreme of the Madre islands, where Trinidad 
and Goncepcion channels meet Wide channel, and extends 38 miles to the 
northward from Topar to Saumarez island, with a breadth varying from 
1| to 3^ miles. 

Open Mmy on the eastern shore of Wide channel, opposite Trinidad 
islands, is said to have an anchorage sheltered bj two islands, but to be 
rery exposed. It was not examined by the Nassau. 

Smau Craft Bigbt, which Skyring in the Adelaide calla '^ an ill- 
sheltered nook," is merely a slight indentation on the coast, and not fit to 
be classed among anchorages, even in Patagonia. 

Omge Xnietv about 20 miles north of Tom bay, has a small anchorage at 
its- head, about 4 miles within the entrance. It is, however, too £ar out 
of the way, and the inlet is^too tortuous to be of much use.* 

Sandy Bay was not examined by the Nassau^ but Mr^ Triyett, 
commanding the Labouchere says oC it, <' Sandy bay may be known by 
its being under the south head of the third deep inlet in Wellington island* 
Before any vessel attempts to enter, she should send a boat to examine it. 
The Labouchere steamed carefully in towards the north part of the 
bay, with two leads going. No bottom was found until weU inside the 
heads, when the first coast was 16 fathoms, then 14 and 12 fathoms. 
Directly after the latter cast, the vessel's way being nearly stopped, she 
touched what appeared to be a shelving rock under her fore-foot. After 
backing out she steamed in again very slowly for anchorage in the southern 
part of the bay, but no bottom was obtained as close in as was prudent to 
go ; and when just outside the bay, at 45 fathoms, as night was 
approaching, steamed to the southward in search of a bight likely to afford 
anchorage ; but not succeeding in finding one before dark, the vessel had 
to keep under weigh all night, going slowly over the space she had 
previously traversed." 

ftlnffdove Inlet. — Opposite Sandy bay in lat. 49^ 47' S. (approx.) 
there is an opening between high hills, having n?any small creeks and 
coves on either side, in which good anchorage ma^ be obtained. 

The Ringdove whilst experiencing bad and thick weather in the main 
channel steamed 4 or 5 miles up the inlet — which appeared to extend some 
distance inland-— carrying from 7 to 12 fathoms water, no kelp being 
visible, whilst the depth increased as the vessel proceeded. 

The Ringdove found a well sheltered anchorage in one of the numerous 
coves in 14 fathoms. No rise or fall of tide was observed in this inlet, but 
it is probably the same as in other parts of these channels, viz., from 2 to 
4 feet. 



* See Admiralty Chart, Chaanels bctw««n Gnlfii of Trinidad and Fe&as, No. 24. 



CHAP.m.] WIDE CHANNEL. — PORT GBAPPLER. 87 

BAVMAftBX Is&AxrA.— Wide cbAnnel divided by Saumarez island, 
commimicates with Eyre sound to the north-east. There ia a passage on 
either side of Saumarez island, but the eastern is the wider of the two, 
passing close to Bold head, an immense dark mass of rook rising abruptly 
from the sea to the height of 1,000 feet ; abreast of this head is the entrance 
to Eyre sound, which is 40 miles long, with an average breadth of 4 miles. 
Near its entrance on the eastern shore there was in the Adelaide's days a 
large rookery of seals, and another 18 miles farther up on the same side, in 
lat. 49** 2V 8. 

The passage west of Saumarez island is perfectly clear and deep. It is 2 
miles shorter than the other way, and in the autumn, when the ice from 
the glaciers at the head of Eyre sound comes down in inconveniently large 
lumps, its navigation would be safer than the eastern passage | even going 
to port Grappler it would be almost as short, but except for avoiding ice 
it has no advantage. The current in Bowlat narrows did not seem 
strong.* 

POST OBJU^PXiBR is an excellent well-sheltered harbour in the 
Exmouth promontory, opposite the north-east side of Saumarez island. CSlou^ 
island in its entrance shows so distinctly that it is impossible to mistake the 
position of this harbour. There is a passage on either side of the island, 
but the eastern one is the wider and better. The best anchorage for a 
large ship is 3 cables inside Clou6 island in 8 to 9 fathoms, mud ; but a 
small vessel may pass Diamond island and anchor in 4 to 5 fathoms off 
Allard point. The holding ground all over the harbour is excellent how- 
ever, and a vessel may choose her berth where she pleases ; but above 
Diamond island the shoal water extends farther from the shore, and the 
anchorage ground becomes confined.! 

The vessel should endeavour to reach this harbour from Puerto Bueno if 
possible in the day, and in the long summer days this is easily done ; if, 
however, the speed of a vessel is so small as to prevent this, and darkness 
should set in before Molyneux sound, or Tom bay can be reached, there is 
no danger whatever in steaming slowly along the Wide channel all night. {; 
The shores on both sides are steep-to, and there are no off-lying dangers, 
so that with a good fix before dark and the patent log, very little anxiety 
need be felt after Concepcion strait is passed, going northward ; or until it 
is reached going southward. The Inocentes channel should not be entered 
at night, unless in very clear weather indeed. 

* The Nassau struck seyeral large lamps of Ice when going up Wide cliannel one 
night in April, one being as long as the ship, 
t See Plan of Port Grappler, on Admhtdty Sheet, No. 110. 
X See page 76. 



88 CHANNELS TO GULF OF PENAS. Lchap. ni. 

Rooky Blfflftt is a little nook in which a small craft might find shelter, 
but with port Grappler so near it is useless. 

miAX BBACH. — The southern end of the Messier channel, for nearly 
30 miles between Saumarez island and the English narrows, is named Indian 
reach, in which are several islets and straggling rocks, with deep water. 

Navigation of this reach looks dangerous on the small scale chart, but 
in reality presents no difficulties to an ordinarily cautious mariner. After 
passing Saumarez island the course lies up the east shore for about 8 miles, 
when the ship will be between a large island on the west side, and 2 or 3 
small islets close in shore, joining a sandy beach on the east. Several 
small rocky islets will be seen nearly in mid-channel from this position, 
whence the vessel must cross to the west shore, leaving all these islets on 
her eastern side. After they are passed she should haul out mid-channel to 
avoid the Gorgon reef, which lies awash off the south entrance point of 
Eden harbour. 

SBEir BABBOint is formed by a group of thickly wooded islands on 
the western shore of Indian reach, about 5 miles south of the English 
narrows, and has good anchorage in 8 to 12 fathoms. Coming from the 
northward it may be entered between Morton and Dulce islands, but the 
best entrance is south of Charles island, midway between it and the 
Hammond reef. When in the entrance a remarkable tree on Jenkins hill 
will be seen, bearing about N. by W. ^ W., and this tree kept half a point on 
the starboard bow will lead to the anchorage. The best anchorage is 
between Eden island and a small beach N.W. of it in 12 to 14 fathoms, 
taking care not to get too close to Bare rocks off Eden island. Farther 
in is Malacca cove, which is perfectly sheltered but very confined ; the 
anchorage in it is in 7 fathoms, mud.* 

Sbaokawana Covo is immediately south of Eden harbour. When inside 
the anchorage is perfectly sheltered, but the entrance is only 50 yards 
across, and there is a rock with 2 fathoms water upon it in the middle. 

&evoi Bay, on the eastern side of the channel opposite Eden harbour, 
can scarcely be called an anchorage, and certainly does not deserve the 
name of level, as there are 7, 17, and 39 fathoms close to each other. 
With Eden harbour so near it is quite useless. 

Tides. — ^It is high water, full and change, in Eden harbour at Oh. 30in., 
and the rise and fall is about 5 feet. The fiood sets S.S.E. ; the ebb, 
N.N.W. 

BiraiiZSB B'ABBO'WS. — Except when passing Mid-Channel island, the 
English narrows present no difficulty whatever, and even there in the 



See Flan of £den harbour, on Admiralty Sheet, No. 85. 



CHIP, in.] ENGLISH NARROWS. — LUCAS COVE. 89 

narrowest part, there is no danger unless a vessel goes through with wind 
and tide, which should never be attempted if the wind be strong. After 
passing Adam island the eastern shore will naturally be kept on board, and 
is the best for approaching the narrows. Kitt island should be given a 
wide berth, as there is a small rock lying about a cable off it ; and 
Chinnock island should be passed about 1| cables off, as there is a patch 
with only 3^ fathoms, about 3 cables N.N.W. of the island. From Chin- 
nock island it is essential to keep on the east side as there is foul ground 
off Croft island, extending half way across the channel ; as this is passed 
Mid-Channel island will be plainly seen, and the passage east of it will be 
opened.* 

The channel on either side of the island is safe, but a large vessel should 
take the western, which is the wider and deeper of the two, and least 
affected by the tide. After passing the rocks off Croft island, the vessel 
should cross gradually to the western shore and follow it round while passing 
Mid-Channel island. Should the tide be making to the southward, care 
must be taken not to let it catch the ship on the starboard bow and cant 
her head in shore. Should the tide be making to the northward the helm 
mast be ported quickly after passing the island^ or the ship will be set on 
the shoal which extends off Clio islet and the point north of it. If the 
eastern channel is taken the island shore must be kept close aboard, as the 
shoal water extends for some distance off Cedar point. 

After Clio islet and Cedar point are passed the channel is perfectly clear 
the whole way to the gulf of Penas, but the tide makes with considerable 
strength until Cavour and Lamarora islands are passed. In making the 
English narrows fi*om the northward, the same care must be taken to avoid 
the shoal water off Cedar point and Clio islet ; and as before remarked, a 
vessel should not attempt the passage with the wind and tide^ if the former 
is strong, unless she is being navigated by some one possessing local 
knowledge. There is anchorage on either side the narrows in mid-channel, 
where in calm weather a vessel might wait the turn of the tide. The holding 
ground is indifferent, however, and the ship is sheered about by the tide, 
so that she is apt to trip the anchor, in the event of which she would 
probably be set into the narrows before getting steerage-way on. 

Tides. — The tides are very regular through English narrows, but have 
much greater force than elsewhere in the channels. At springs the 
stream runs 6 knots past IMLid- Channel island. 

&VOAS COVB, a mile south of Mid*Channel island, is a good anchorage 
for any but the very largest vessels, and if night falls, or too strong a wind 



* See Plan of English Narrows, on Admiralty Sheet, No. S5. 



90 CHANNELS TO GTJLr OF PESAS. [cHAP.m. 

and tide forbid the passage of the narrows, it will save the return of Eden 
harbour. The entrance is south of Chinnock island, and is made rather 
narrow bj the kelp which extends off the south point of the island. There 
are 4 fathoms in the channel, however, and no danger if the southern or 
mainland shore is kept on board. The cove is about 2^ cables wide by 
4 cables long, and has anchorage in 10 to 11 fiithoms in the centre with a 
bottom of mud. A large vessel will find anchorage outside the cove in 
about 20 fathoms water. 

BOBXTW cova, nearly as £a.r northward of English narrows as Lucas 
cove is to the southward, would answer the same purpose to the southward 
bound vessel as Lucas cove does to the northward bound. It is formed by 
an island joined to the main at low water, and a remarkable round islet 
(Loney islet) showing as the extreme on the west side after passing the 
narrows marks its entrance unmistakeably. The best anchorage is in the 
middle of the cove in 13 fathoms, mud, or when Loney islet is shut in by 
John point, where^ though a considerable tide is felt when near the time of 
high water, a vessel may lie in perfect safety. Care must be taken in going 
out or in, as the tide sweeps rapidly past Loney islet, and catches the 
vessel's bow or stem, whilst her other end is in the dead water occasioned 
by the island.* 

There is a rock with 9 fathoms water, 1^ cables east of Elizabeth point, 
and the kelp extends about half a cable beyond it. John point on the 
northern shore is steep-to. The only drawback to Hoskyn cove is the very 
strong tide which sweeps past its entrance, but it is far preferable to Halt 
bay, in which a vessel has to anchor in 30 to 40 fathoms. Just outside 
the cove the channel is only 1^ cables wide, but both shores are steep-to, 
and a^r this narrow part, Messier channel opens out, extending as far as 
the eye can reach, between lofty mountains covered with snow. 

MBS8ZBS CBAraB&. — From the north end of the English narrows, 
to the outlet of the Messier channel at Tarn bay in the gulf of Fenas, a 
distance of 75 miles, the channel is quite open, and. free from all 
impediments ; it contains also safe and convenient anchorages. 

Bait Bay, on the eastern shore, at the commencement of the Messier 
channel, has been much used by ships passing through $ but the water is 
very deep and the space confined, so that Gray harbour and Hoskyn cove 
should entirely supersede it.^ 

OBAT BABBoro afiords excellent anchorage at the head of Liberta 
bay, 2 miles east of Halt bay, where a vessel may lie in perfect security in 
16 to 17 fathoms, with a bottom of stifi* mud. 

* See Flan of Hoskyn cove, on Admiralty sheet, No. 85. 

t See Plan of Halt buy a^d Gray harMar, 611 Admiralty Iheet, K6. 85. 



OHAP.ni.] MESSIER CHANNEL. — ISLAND HAEBOUR. 91 

The firewood here seems also to be as good as that in Halt bay, which 
was highly praised by Captain Paynter of H.M.S. Gorgon, Commander 
Percival of the Ringdove used wood all the way through these channels ; 
and observes : " The wood cut in Mayne harbour is fair average wood 
for steam purposes, and saves about half the quantity of coal with 
the same result ; but it is not to be compared with the wood in Gray 
harbour, which is better than that supplied from the Chilian settlement 
at Sandy point. It is easily cut close to the water's edge, and bums very 
well without coal, by being dried before being put into the furnace. It 
bums so quickly, however, that a ship having wood from Mayne harbour 
on board could, I think, keep steam very well by using the two mixed, 
and no coal." 

Coming from the southward, the Armingen islands may be rounded close- 
to, and the north-east comer of Liberta bay steered for until the entrance 
to the harbour opens. Coming from the northward, the eastern shore should 
be followed past Halt bay into the harbour. Julia and Green islands must 
not be approached too close, as there are rocks lying about a cable off 
each of them. At the head of Gray harbour is a large fresh-water lake, 
which may be entered by a boat at high water. 

Dlreotton Ssiets lie nearly mid-channel 15 miles north of the narrows, 
between Iceberg sound and the main, and a deep inlet on Wellington 
island ; they are two in number, small, and thickly wooded. 

TTbite Xelp Cove, 9 miles northward of Direction islets on the north 
side, and about a mile inside Lion bay, is very confined, and not nearly so 
good as Connor cove, which is close by. No other anchorage could be 
found in Lion bay. 

Connor Core, on the same shore, 2 miles north of Lion bay, is a very 
convenient anchorage, with no dangers in it whatever. The anchorage is 
in the middle in 13 fathoms stiff mud.* 

Boyle Aook, which lies rather more than a mile off Connor cove ; is 
awash at low water, and is well marked by kelp. 

Middle Island, 1,400 feet high, is very conspicuous from the northward, 
being visible as soon as a vessel enters the Messier channel. Its shores 
are steep-to, and it can be passed on either side. 

iVateiDUi Bay, 12 miles north of Middle island, is at the entrance of an 
inlet on the east side of the channel ; it affords very poor anchorage, how- 
ever, with hardly any shelter ; and a vessel should so arrange her time as 
to reach Island harbour or Connor cove. 

on the eastern shore, 20 miles from the gulf of 



* See Plan of Connor Cove, on Admiralty Sheet, No. 24. 



92 CHANNELS TO GULF OF PENAS. [chap. iii. 

Penas, is a small but landlocked anchorage, well placed for vessels entering 
or leaving these channels, with good holding ground, plenty of wood and 
water close at hand^ and at times abundance of fish. Its position is marked 
by an island a short mile to the southward, and near the entrance are two 
small islets called Brown and Phipps islands. A bank or b.ar of rocky 
ground stretches across from Phipps island to the main on each side, 
having 8 fathoms on it in mid-channel, and shoaling gradually to 3 or 
4 fathoms on either side close to the rocks.* 

The island may be passed on either side, but the north passage is the 
straighter. There is a patch with 2^ fathoms on it about half a cable south 
of Phipps island, and a group of rocky islands surrounded by kelp off the 
south point of the main. The anchorage is in 19 fathoms, rather more 
than a cable inside Phipps island, with the extremes bearing S.W. ^ 8. 
and S.E. by S. A small vessel may, however, go into the inner basin and 
anchor close to the large waterfall at the head of the harbour, in 10 fathoms, 
but her stem must be secured to the trees, as there is not room to swing 
there. There is also anchorage outside the harbour in 1 5 fathoms, with 
point Fleuriais bearing N.W. } W. and the south point of Phipps island 
N.E. i N. 

Fatal Bay being quite unsheltered with 25 fathoms close to the rocks, 
does not deserve the name of an anchorage. Immediately inside Fatal bay 
is a small cove with a very narrow entrance, and deep water inside. We 
spent a night there in the NassaUy but it is not a good place, and as there 
is a good anchorage on the opposite side of the channel it is not needed. 

BAXiB covBy in which there is perfectly sheltered anchorage in 16 or 17 
fathoms with a muddy bottom, is 10 miles north of Island harbour, and 
consequently nearly as close to the entrance or exit of the Messier chan- 
nel as Fatal bay. It is situated in the South Baker island, and is marked 
by two small islets off its entrance. Passing inside the outer islands 
which lie a mile from it, and 2\ miles from the western side of the channel, 
two small islets will be seen, and as they are passed, the entrance of the 
cove will be observed turning to the right, or southward. Two remarkable 
white patches of bare rock, one much larger than the other, on the side of 
mount Orlebar, immediately over the anchorage, also serve to mark its 
position welL 

Anchorage can be had outside the cove, but it is not well sheltered, 
and the bottom is rocky. Off Hale cove, three islands and an islet are 
marked on the chart, the northern one being much the largest ; between 
the two lesser islands there did not seem to be a passage, but there is a 



♦ Ste Plan of Island harbour, on Admiralty Sheet, No. 24. 



CHAP, m.] HALE COVE. — ^POKT BALLENAS. 93 

perfectly safe one between the northern of the three and the large one. 
This passage is only 50 yards wide, but deep, and the shores quite steep. 
It might be useful for a vessel much pressed for time in coming from the 
northward, as she would save about 1^ miles. As Hale cove is not 
15 miles from Tarn bay, a vessel would generally be able to get out 
easily from that.* 

VOBT BAXi&BsrAS. — If after reaching Tarn bay the vessel should be met 
by a strong foul wind, or the still more common occurrence of a heavy 
westerly sea into the gulf of Peiias, and she has not time to reach port 
Otway, a fairly good anchorage may be had under the lee of Wager 
island, in what is believed to be the Puerto Ballenas of Machado, who 
was a pilot in the days when Chili was a Spanish colony. This anchorage 
is the first deep indentation on the south-east side of Wager island. The 
space is confined and the bottom uneven and rocky, but it is quite sheltered 
by the island from all northerly and N.W. winds, and no sea can get up 
there. A depth of 1 1 fathoms may be had on the west side off a small 
islet, with just room to swing. 

The above anchorages were all that could be found after a careful 
examination of the shores of the Messier channel. All the inlets may be 
entered with perfect safety, but the depth of water is far too great for 
anchorage. The number given however, will be found amply sufficient to 
render this navigation perfectly easy in moderately fine weather. The 
real difficulty of it consists in the almost perpetual rain, thick weather, and 
strong gales, with very heavy squalls or williwaws, which come down the 
steep mountain sides with a force which must be felt to be believed. 

Tides. — In the northern part of the Messier channel the tides are regular, 
running 6^ hours each way. The flood stream sets to the northward, 
and the ebb southward, but their strength is so small as not to affect 
navigation. 

Ayautau Islands, the largest of which is about 800 feet high, and steep, 
serves as an excellent mark to steer for in making the Messier channel; 
all the small islands off the western point of entrance being low, whilst the 
eastern shore shows an abrupt mountainous outlinie. Directly the entrance 
is passed, both shores are of the same high rugged character, with numerous 
peaks and capes ; but all alike in character, and succeeding each other so 
rapidly that it would not be easy to distinguish them separately, nor indeed 
is it necessary, so pei-fcctly clear is the channel at this part. ' 
' About midway off the north, cast shore of Miller island, and about mid- 
channel, the Alert got two casts of 7 and 11 fathoms from opposite chains 

* See Eye sketch of Fort Ballenas and Hale cove, on Admiralty chart, No. 24. 



94 CHANKELS TO GULF OF PENAS. [chap. in. 

upon a bank or rocky ledge. A few straggling threads of kelp were 
noticed, and firom the narrowness of the channel and the clearness of the 
water no actual danger could escape observation.* 

This ledge was not found by the Nassau in passing up and down, but it 
was not specially looked for. 

Tarn Bay, in which the channels from Magellan strait open into the 
Gulf of Fenas, is about 15 miles wide, having the Anyautau islands on its 
eastern side, 4 miles from the coast. On the coast abreast the islands 
there is a port, called by the missionary voyagers San Folicarpo \ but from 
its exposure to the westward it cannot be thought very inviting. The 
ports of Tianitan and Asaurituan are also mentioned by the missionary 
priests in their journal. The former is described to have many islands in 
its entrance, and to be to the northward of San Folicarpo^ and the latter to 
be to the southward of Tianitan and opposite to Ayautau. 

Onaiaeop ZsUiiidflt off the north end of Wellington island, are 20 miles 
in extent, and consists of two principal and many smaller ones $ the western- 
most is called Byron island, and the easternmost Wager island. They are 
separated by Bundle pass, at the north of which is Speedwell bay. Bundle 
pass is only a quarter of a mile wide, but clear in the whole extent of its 
channel excepting the northern entrance, where it is guarded by many 
detached rocks, which render the entrance to Speedwell bay rather 
difficult. 

Fitzroy considered that according to Byron and Bulkeley's narratives 
the wreck of the Wager took phu^e near the western end of the north side 
of Wager island ; this, however, I consider a mistake, and believe with 
Bumey that she was lost on the other side of the gulf of Fenas.f 

"Waver and Syron Islands are both high, and, with the Ayautau 
islands, mark the entrance to the channel well, Skyring remarks of them, 
^* The entrance to the Messier channel is very remarkable from having two 
high and singular peaks on the islands at its mouth ; the northern very 
much resembles (though higher than) Nelson's monument, near the strait ; 
and the other, more to the southward and much higher, resembles a church 
with a cupola instead of a spire ; both are easily made out from the west- 
ward at a distance of 30 or 40 miles." \ 

£1 Sombrero is also remarkable, as is the summit of Miller island. 

vrziTB and WSATBBB. — The climate of the coast of western Fatagonia 
between Magellan strait and the gulf of Fenas is cool, damp, and tem- 

* Bemark Book of Captain W. A. B. Fearce, B.N. 

'I' A full account of the dreadful loss of H.M.S. Wager y Captain Cheape, one of 
Anson's sqaadron is given by Barney in his Voyages. 

X Adventure and Beagle^ vol. 1, page 931. 



■>Ti 



cHAP.m.] TABN BAT, — ^WINDS, &0. 95 

pestuous. The prevailing wind is from north-west ; but after blowing hard 
from that quarter, the wind is very liable to shift suddenly round to the 
westward and to blow still harder, raising a mountainous and often a cross 
sea. 

These westerly gales, however, do not generally last long, but veer round 
to the southward, when the weather, if the barometer rises, will probably 
clear up. Should they, however, fly back to the N.W. again, and the 
barometer remain low or oscillate, the weather will doubtless be worse. 
The south winds are accompanied with fine clear weather; whereas 
westerly winds bring with them a constant fall of rain, and a quick 
succession of hard squalls and showers. Should a vessel be near the coast 
during one of these north-westerly gales it would be advisable for her to 
make an offing as quickly as possible, in order to guard against that sudden 
shift to the westward which is almost certain to ensue. The discovery, 
howeveri of the anohorages of port Henry, port Barbara, port Otway, and 
Saint Quentin sound, has very much reduced the dangers of the lee shore ; 
and a refuge in either of them will be found preferable to passing a night 
on this coast during a severe gale. 

The barometer falls with northerly and westerly winds and rises with 
southerly. It is at its minimum height with N.W. winds, and at its maxi- 
mum when the wind is S-E. The temperature is rarely so low as 40^ 
excepting in the winter months ; at port Otway, in the gulf of Penas, the 
maximum and minimum for 19 days in the month of June winter) were 
respectively 51** and 27°. 

It may be observed that there are no sand banks, little or no current, and 
but few hidden dangers on this coast between the strait of Magellan and 
Cbiloe. Rocks under water are either buoyed by kelp, or are distinctly 
visible to an eye aloft, if the sea does not break on them so as to show their 
position exactly to an eye on deck. 

The descriptions of wind and weather for the outer coast, taken from 
journals of the old surveyors, are not applicable to the inner channels. In 
these, except where an opening such as Trinidad channel occurs, the 
true wind is rarely felt, and it is forced by the high mountains into a 
kind of funnel, up or down which it always blows. The prevailing wind 
is from the northward, and sometimes blows with great fury, but of course 
in so confined a space there is never any sea sufficiently high to be dan- 
gerous to a ship, or e^en to a good boat. The principal feature in the 
Tveather here is not, however, the strength of the wind, but, as previously 
remarked, the almost perpetual rain. 

Day after day, if unfortunately the mariner should remain, he will 
experience this steady downfall, unless, indeed, he is so fortunate as to 
arrive in one of those rare breaks of lovely weather which sometimes 



96 CHANNELS TO GULF OF PENAS. [chap. m. 

occur ; then indeed he will consider this the most interesting navigation, 
with smooth water, well-sheltered anchorages, and surrounded by the most 
glorious scenery ; but, alas, these 'occasions are very rare, and he will be 
lucky if he is able to dispense with the oilskin coat which he put on as he 
rounded cape Tres Montes. As far as the rain is concerned, one season 
is as good, or perhaps it should be said as bad, as another, but of course 
the warmth and length of daylight in the summer renders that period far 
the best for such navigation. 

Supplies. — ^The only supply for food that can be reckoned on with any 
certainty is mussels ; these are to be obtained everywhere, and are exceed- 
ingly good of their kind; scalloped they will be found excellent. In 
summer a few berries, which make indifferent tarts, may be picked up or 
bought from the Indians, when any are met with. Fish there are un- 
doubtedly in the water, but it is veiy difficult to obtain a beach upon 
which the seine can be hauled. Steamer ducks and kelp geese will be seen 
in numbers, but neither are fit to eat. The other varieties of geese and 
duck, so abundant at times in parts of the Strait of Magellan, seem never 
to visit these channels. 

The evergreen and antarctic beeches form almost the only kind of tree, 
covering the mountain sides everywhere from the water's edge to a line 
several hundred feet above ; among these is a thick tangled under-grove, 
growing from a soft spongy moss, treading on which, one sinks to the 
knees. It has been before observed that, for steaming purposes, the wood 
is better in Gray harbour. Halt bay, and the northern parts of the channel^ 
than in the south. 

Indians. — The Indians who inhabit the shores of the channels seem very 
few in number, as the same people were met in the Messier channel and at 
ShoU bay. On one occasion as many as 70 or 80 collected round the Nassau 
in Fortune bay, and caused some little trouble by objecting to leave the ship 
at night. Our boat parties were never in any way molested by them, but 
they knew that the ship was not far off and that the men were well armed ; 
anything however, that they could steal they did. 

Tides. — High water on most parts of this coast takes place within half 
an hour on either side of noon. The stream is inconsiderable, and the rise 
and fall rarely more than 6 feet. 

The eastern side of the gulf of Penas being quite out of the track of 
vessels passing through the channels, and being perfectly useless for the 
purpose of settlement, was not examined by the Nassau. 

The COAST. — The following description, as well as that of the outside 
coast between Magellan strait and the gulf, is taken from King, Fitzroy, 
Stokes, and Skyring. The coast between cape Victory and Nelson strait is 



OHAF.m.] SUPPLIES. — ^PORT HENRY. 97 

much broken and intersected by channels leading between the islands of 
the Adelaide archipelago. About 10 miles N.N.E. of cape Victory there is 
a remarkable pyramidal hill, called Diana peak, which in clear weather is 
visible to ships in the mouth of Magellan strait, at 30 miles off.* 

Cape Isabel, the western point of Queen Adelaide archipelago, is a 
steep rocky promontory, of great height, with a peaked summit and a 
sharp serrated ridge, having two detached columnar masses of rock. 
Beagle island, lying off it, is wall-sided ; but, although tolerably high, is 
much lower than the land of the cape. 

Cape Santa Xiuoia, the westernmost point of Cambridge island, is high 
and precipitous. Cape George, at its southern end, is lower, and forms a 
bluff point. Between cape George and Isabel is Nelson strait, which 
runs in north-east about 50 miles, with an average breadth of 15 miles. 
Cutler and Smyth channels open into this strait, and there is an opening 
into Sarmiento channel between Vancouver and Piazzi islands. 

The San Bias channel. Duck and Duncan harbours, the Duncan rock, 
and other rocks off them, are ini|erted firom the oral information of the 
master of a schooner, and may be very incorrectly laid down. Augusta 
island and the White Horse, off the west shore of Hanover island, were 
seen by Captain Skyring. 

Cape Santtaffo is the south-west extremity of Duke of York island, 
which is separated from Hanover and Madre islands by Concepcion strait 
and the west channel. This channel communicates with the in-shore 
passage at Inooentes island, to the north-west of the Guia narrows. 

Madre talanda, to the northward of Hanover island, are separated from 
Wellington island by the gulf of Trinidad. The most conspicuous summits 
of these islands seen from seaward are April peak. Tower rock, and cape 
Three Peaks, which latter forms the south-west point of the gulf of 
Trinidad. 

Cape Three Peaks rises to a lofty rocky mountain, nearly 2,000 feet 
high, the summit having three peaks connected by sharp serrated ridges, 
with a detached mass of rock, of pyramidal form at the base, which shuts 
in with the land on the bearing of N.N.E. f E. 

PORT mmanLT is 3 miles to the north-east of cape Three Peaks, and 
the shore between them is filled for nearly a league in the offing with rocks 
and islets, of which several scores might be counted in the spaOjo of a 
square mile ; but they seem to be of bold approach, and probably few 
dangers exist that are not above water, or not joined by kelp.f 



* See Admiralty Chart, West Coast of America, Sheet 1, Ko. 560. 
f See Flan of Port Henry, on Admiralty Sheet, No. 2,804. 

«6684. ® 



98 CHANNEL TO GULF OF FESTAS. [ohap.ui. 

Bound to port Henry a vessel should keep on the southern shore of the 
gulf of Trinidady for the northern part is strewed with many rocks, some 
of which seem to be exceedingly dangerous. 

The soundingsi also, are vexy irregular, and the bottom is foul and 
rocky. Observations made on a rook, marked in the plan, at the western 
side of the port, placed it in lat. 60*^0' 18" S., long. 75° 18' 55" W. 

The entrance of the port may be easily distinguished by its being the 
first sandy beach seen on that shore after entering the gulf, with a lowish 
sandy cliff at the back, and a round rocky and wooded mount at its western 
end. The Seal rocks are also a good mark for it; they bear nearly 
N. by W., 5 miles from the west point of the entrance, which is about 
a mile wide. The channel is bounded on each side by low rocks and 
round rocky islets of greater height| and which may be approached within 
H cables. The soundings are from 20 to 26 £ja.thoms, on a sandy bottom, 
decreasing gradually to the anchorage, which is in 9 to 10 fathoms. 

Tidefltf— It is high water, full and changci in port Benry at 11 h. 45 m., 
«ad the tide rises 5 feet* The stream of the tide, however, is very 
inconsiderable, and never exceeds half a knot. 

Btmsovzowi. -* When the sandy beach bears about 8. by E. | E., 
the fairway of the entrance to port Henry will be quite open, and a vessel 
may stand in, keeping Bound mount atthe western end of tho sandy beach 
of the port bow, until nearly abreast of it i she may then proceed up the 
harbour as high as convenient and select a berth, for the ground is quite 
clear of danger to the line of rook weed which skirts the shore and islets. 

The depth of water is between 12 and 8 &thomS| and the bottom generally 
of sand and mud. 

In turning in there are some patches of kelp on each side, growing 
upon rocks awash at high water i they must be given a good berth. 
Their positions are given in the plan. As the squalls off the high land 
are sometimes very strong it will be advisable for a ship to anchor as soon 
as possible and warp up to her berth, which, from the smoothness of the 
water, may be easily effected. No security may be obtained in this har- 
bour ; Aid basin, at the bottom of the harbour, is a complete wet dock. 
Wood and water at the sandy beach are in abundance. 

vworiiiAtt GMAMwrn^ separating Wellington and Madre islands^ is 
nearly 80 miles long, and from 4 to 9 miles wide. Its southern shore on 
Madre island is very much broken, and probably contains many ports, 
but none Of them Were visited, unless wanted for night anchorages. 
Under the east side of Davis island lies Port del Morro, which with cape 
Candelaria'and port Rosario, are inserted from Sarmiento's account. 

Cape Frimero, the north point of entrance to the gulf of Trinidad^ 



OHAP.ni.] TRINIDAD CHANNEL. — PIOTON OPENING. 99 

is the south extremity of the mountainoas island of fiaount Corso^ which 
may be seen in clear weather at the distance of 30 mileSi . Viewed from 
the southward the summit of the island has a rounded appearance, rising 
aboTe all the contiguous land^ fh>m which a small portion of low coast 
extends for about two degrees bejond it to the westward. The land 
of the northern shore of the gulf makes mountainous ridges and peaks, 
the average height of which Captain Stokes estimated to be about 3,000 
feet. 

Mount Corso island is separated from cape Brenton, on Wellington 
island, bj Spartan pass ; there are some extensive reefs for more than 
3 miles off cape Primero i indeed the whole coast of Madre island is 
fronted by rocksi some of which are 6 miles from the shore. There ar^ 
regular soundings in the gulf of Trinidad^ but the water deepens 
immediately afber passing eastward of port Henry and entering Trinidad 
channel. 

On the northern shore of Trinidad channel there are two openings like 
channels; the westernmost probably communicates with the Picton 
opening ; the other, the Brazo de Norte, appeared to reach only to the 
base of a range of mountains, among which Cathedral mount is a 
conspicuous object. From the entrance of the strait this mountain 
resembles the spire and roof of a church, and is visible for more than 
60 miles. Between the two openings is Neesham bay, in which the 
Adelaide found a secure anchorage In 11 &thoms> There is also good 
ftnchorage for a small vessel in Windward bay. 

Trinidad and Wide channels meet at their junction with Concepcion 
channel, and the water-way Is contracted by the Island of Topar to the 
breadth of 1^ miles. There are several isles and rocks in the channel, 
of which the most remarkable are the Seal rocks before mentioned, the 
Van isles opposite the western opening, and a nuinerous group extends 
for 3 miles to the south-eastward of Neesham bay. On the south shore 
also there are several isles, but they are all near the coast except Medio 
island, which, with the reef off its south-west end, is well described by 
Sarmiento.* 

Moton openlBff ana D jneiey Bay most probably insulate the land that 
separates them, of which cape Montague is the western extremity. There 
are some rocks 8 or 9 miles off the coast to the southward, and between 
cape Montague and cape Dyer they are more numerous; several are 
10 miles off the shore and in very deep water ; many are dry, some awash, 
and others show only by the breaking of the sea. The coast of the 
northward of Dyneley bay is very broken.! 

* Smnknto, page 86. t S^ Chart. 

a 2 



388741 



100 • CHANNELS TO GTJLF OF PBSAS. [chap. m. 

Bmidee Soolb--Clape Djer is in lat. 48"^ 6' S., long. IS" 34^' W., and 
5 miles S.W. by W. | W. from it is an islet, called the rock of Dundee, 
which is not onlj a very striking object in itself, bat a good mark for port 
Barbarra, and bears from its entrance S.W. ^ S., distant 9 miles. At a 
mile to the northward of the rock there are 23 fathoms, and the depth 
gradually decreases on approaching the port. 

POST BASBABA lies inside Breaksea island, which bears N. by E. \ E., 
nearly 5 miles from cape Dyer. This island being 2 miles long, and 
fronting the port, effectually shelters it, while between it and the entrance 
of the port the depth is from 6 to 7 fathoms, good ground, which renders 
the ingress and exit very easy. The entrance is half a mile wide, and the 
depth is in 4 fathoms, but from thence the water in the port gradually 
decreases to 3 to 2^ fathoms, and deepens again to 6 and 8 fathoms in the 
inner basin. This is a very good harbour, and affords the rare opportunity 
of anchoring in a moderate depth in a port of easy access. Just above 
high-water mark Captain Stokes found a ship's beam, apparently of 
English oak, and probably belonging to the Wager^ one of Lord Anson's 
squadron. 

Tides* — It is high water, full and change, at port Barbara at Oh. 28m.y 
and the spring tides rise 6 feet. 

BIBBCTZOW8. — In Steering for port Barbara, as soon as cape Dyer bears 
South, the vessel will be dose to some rocks, which should be kept on the 
port hand. When passing them at the distance of an eighth of a mile the 
depth will be 1 1 fathoms. The channel here is a mile wide, but gradually 
narrows on approaching the S.W, end of Breaksea island ; and at Wreck 
point, round which the port opens, the depth is not much more than 
a cable. There are several rocks in this passage, but as the depth is 
from 6 to 8 fathoms the anchor may be dropped, and the ship warped 
clear of them, in case of being becalmed ; calms, however, are of rare 
occurrence. Off the coast of Breaksea island, both to the N,W, and N.E, 
there are many straggling rocks, so that the Beagle^ having entered the 
port from the westward, left by threading the N.E. rocks, in doing which 
she had not less than 9 &tboms. 

Flinn sound^ a deep opening to the eastward of port Barbara, was not 
examined. 

VAXiXiOS CBAWVS&. — ^Bynoe islands, covering an extent of 2 miles, 
forms the western head of the Fallos channel, which separates Cam.- 
.pana from Wellington island. This channel was explored for 30 milesy 
without finding any interesting feature, by Mr. Kirke : he described it to 
be clear of rocks, and abounding in anchorages for small vessels, although 
the water is deep. The bottom is generally sandy. Its average breadth 



CHAP.ni.J PORT BAEBAEA. — JESUIT SOUND, 101 

from 1^ to 2 miles. The western side is a ridge of mountuns. The 
eastern side of the entrance is much lower and verj broken, and formed by 
many small islands. At 5 miles within it on the western side is Our Lady's 
bay, of the old chart. Fallos channel probably communicates with the 
sea by Dyneley bay and Picton opening, and even beyond the latter it is 
supposed to enter the gulf of Trinidad by the opening to the westward of 
Neesham bay. 

BOCA BB CAMAXMM of the Spanish chart is laid down, as well as all 
this part of the coast, from Machado's account,* who describes the opening 
and gives it lat. 47° 25' S., which is only 3 miles in error. Et begins in a 
south-east direction for II miles, and then divides into two arms, one 
turning to the eastward for 15 miles, and the other 11 miles to the south- 
ward, where they terminate. They are merely deep and narrow arms of 
the sea, running between steep-sided ranges of mountains. The shores are 
rocky, and afford neither coves or bights, nor even shelter for a boat, and 
are entirely unproductive, for no seals or birds were seen, and were 
destitute even of shell^fish. 

Cape Machado, in lat. 47° 26' 30" S., long. 74° 30 45" W., is the 
northern head of this opening, and 2 miles off it are two rocks, which 
the pilot carefully and correctly describes, as he also does the rocks 
and breakers extending from the South head for nearly 3 miles. The 
Beagle twice occupied an anchorage under the Hazard isles in the 
entrance, and on both occasions was detained many days from bad 
weather, with three anchors down. Excepting this very bad and exposed 
anchorage, there is no other in the channel, and Captain Stokes describes it 
as being extremely perilous ; " anchors,** he says, *^ were in 23 fathoms, 
sand and coral. The squalls were terrifically violent. Astern, at the 
distance of half a cable, were rocks and islets, upon which a furious surf 
raged, and on which the ship must have been inevitably diiven if the 
anchors, of which three were down, had started." 

JBSVZT somrB. — ^Between the Boca de Canales and Jesuit sound the 
coast is more unbroken and lower than usual. In lat. 47^ 17' S. lie 
some reefs, which project 2 miles to seaward, but behind them there was 
an appearance of a bight which might perhaps afford |uichorage. Jesuit 
sound is quite unfit to be entered by any ship ; it terminates in two inlets, 
Benito and Julian. The former is bounded on either side by high 
mountains, and terminates in low land, with a rivulet that originates in a 
lai^e glacier ; the latter ends in high mountainous land, with streams of 
water between the hills ; one part of it is cliffy, and it is on the south-west 
side of a long sandy beach. In its entrance a large island makes the 



* Agaeros, p. 210. 



102 CHANNELS TO GULF OF FENAS. [chap. in. 

passage on either side very narrow, and both of them are rendered more 
so bj rocks and islets. 

ZAVZ8R is&ABTB, which is Separated by Cheape channel from the main, 
is 10 miles long, 4 miles wide, high, and thickly wooded with lofty trees. 
The only two anchorages which it affords are noticed and named by 
Machado, the northern one port Xavier, the southern Ignacio bay. Port 
Xavier is by far the better place, being secure from the prevailing 
winds, with 17 fathoms at 4 cables from the shore. The south end of the 
port is a sandy beach, backed by tall beech trees. The shore to the south 
of the port, for the first 4 or 5 miles, consists of a high, steep, clay cliff, 
with a narrow stony beach at its base, rising into mountains 1,200 or 
1,400 feet high, which are covered by large and straight-stemmed trees. 
The remainder of the coast to Ignacio bay is low, and slightly wooded 
with stunted trees, and its whole extent is lashed with a furious surf which 
prevents the possibility of boats landing. Ignacio bay affords anchorage in 
9 fathoms. The western coast of the island is fringed with reefs, extending 
2 miles off, upon which the sea breaks high. 



in the north-east corner of the gulf of Fenas, 
between San Estevan gulf and Cheape channel, takes a north-easterly direc- 
tion for 8 miles, and the land about it is high, rugged, and rocky, a peak on 
the south side being 1,540 feet high, but by no means destitute of verdure. 
The interior shows many lofty peaked and craggy ranges of snow-covered 
mountains. The points of entrance are 2 miles apart, bearing from each 
other K.E. J E., and S.W.J W., and are thickly wooded, and low compared 
with the adjacent land. Between them the channel is from 35 to 40 
fathoms deep, over a mud bottom, and to within a cable of the rocky 
islets that fringe the shore for the breadth of a quarter of a mile« 

On approaching the harbour the very muddy appearance of the water is 
rare and startling, but the discoloration proceeds only from the freshes of 
the river, and the stream produced from an extensive glacier that stretches 
many miles to the northward into the country. The course in is E.S.E., 
until on the line between the inner north point and an inlet on the south 
shore, fronted by ^ve or six wood.ed islets. Then haul up along the port 
or north side of tlflB harbour as close to the shore and as far as requisite to 
an anchorage. The best berth is when the two points of entrance are 
locked in with each other, and within 1 J cables of the sandy spit which 
proceeds from the western end of a high and thickly-wooded island. 

The ground is excellent, and so tenacious that it was with difficulty that 
the Beagle lifted her anchor. Shelter, wood, and water, however, are the 
only advantages offered by the harbour. Environed by lofty mountains 
from 1,400 to 1,800 feet high, and ice*£illed valleys and ravines, it is chill. 



CHAP.ra.] KELLY HABBOUR. — SAN ESTBVAN OTLF. 103 

damp, and dreary. A few birds and a small number of hair seals were 
the only living animals seen. No trace of human beings was observed. 

For recognizing Kelly harbour the glacier is a capital leading mark, being 
a large mass of ice lying on the low ground to the northward of the 
harbour. The water at the anchorage at half tide was quite fresh, but too 
muddy to be fit for immediate use. When in the fairway of the harbour, 
the Sugar Loaf, situated in Holloway sound in Tres Montes gulf, will be 
seen just in line with the extremity of the land^ to the northward of Purcell 
island, bearing nearly West. The north point of the harbour is in 
lat. 46^ 59' S., and long. 74° 5' W. 

SAV BSTSVAXr OU&F. — ^Thc entrance to this gulf is 10 miles north- 
ward of the north-east end of Xavier island, between Cirujano island and 
the long sandy beach, which curves round to the north-west, towards the 
entrance to the river San Tadeo, and on which a furious surf breaks. In 
the centre of the entrance there is a small islet called Dead Tree island. 
On Cirujano island the surgeon of the Wager was buried.* The 
missionary priests describe a port on the island called San Tomas. Tha 
island is separated from the extremity of Forelius peninsula by a strait 
jfrom a mile to three-quarters of a mile wide. 

This gulf is one of the best harbours of the coast, being easy of access 
and with moderate depth of water all over, good holding ground, and 
clean bottom. The best anchorage is about 2 miles N. W. by W. of Dead 
Tree island, in from 4 to 6 fathoms, sandy ground. This will be 2 miles 
from either shore, but the berth is quite landlocked, and, if necessary, 
anchorage may be taken up much nearer the land. 

The gulf divides into two branches, viz., San Quentin sound, which 
extends for 10 miles to the westward, between the main and Forelius 
peninsula ; and Aldunate inlet, which runs In 8 miles to the N.W. San 
Quentin sound terminates in continuous low land, with patches of sandy 
beach, over which, among other lofty mountains, one called the Dome of St. 
Paul's is seen. The shores are thickly wooded with shapely and well- 
grown trees. The land near the beach for the most part is low, but rises 
into mountainous peaks, some of which, in the interior, are 1,500 feet high 
but not craggy. 

SAir TADBOr-^The mouth of this river is easily distinguished 



* This circumstance was obtained from Fedro Osorio, an old soldier at Cliiloe who was 
one of the old missionary yoyagers. Captain King asked him why the island was called 
El Cirujano, to which he replied, " Porqne alii murio el cirujano del Wager " (because the 
surgeon of the Wager died there). Fedro Osorio also stated that he well remembered 
Byron's party, although it was 88 years since they visited the island. See also Byron's 
Narrative p. 347, 



104 CHANNELS TO GULF OF PENAS. [cHAp.m, 

pn entering San Estevan gulf by the sandy isles on each side of its 
entrance, on the eastern trend of Cirujano island, bearing S. by W. f W. 
The sandy beach extends east and west of it for many miles, the land being 
low and marshy, and covered with stumps of dead trees. The river has a 
bar entrance, much of which must be nearly dry at spring tides ; a heavy 
swell breaks upon it for its whole length, so that no opening or swatch- 
way is left, and except in very fine weather it is very hazardous to cross. 
At the mouth the breadth is not more than half of a mile^ but within the 
entrance it opens to a basin of some extent, and 3 miles up it is 300 yards 
wide, after which it gradually narrows. 

About 9 miles ftom the entrance the stream is divided into two arms ; 
the northern arm, or Black river, taking a northerly, and the other an 
easterly direction. The former is a strong and rapid stream, quite unin- 
fiuenced by the tide, which, however, is found for a short distance up the 
eastern arm, but beyond that the current down becomes gradually as strong 
as in the Black river. Its banks are comparatively barren to those of the 
Black river, where the wood is very thick. The courses of both arms 
are very tortuous, and the bed of the river was so choked with trunks and 
branches of trees as to prevent it being properly explored, as well as the 
discovery of the Desecho, the place where the Lidians carry their canoes 
across the isthmus of Ofqui. 

TOMMUJTB vswzvsv&A, a Strip of land, 10 miles long by 3 miles wide, 
forming the southern shore of San Quentin sound, terminates in an isthmus 
of low sandy land, scarcely a mile wide, the one over which it may be 
inferred from the " Narratives "* that the canoes in which Byron and his 
companions were embarked were carried. At one day's journey by land to 
the westward of this isthmus, Byron describes a river, up which the Indian 
guides attempted to take the Wager's barge. This river, if it exists, 
probably falls into Bad bay.f 

Pnroell Island, moderately high, thickly wooded, and about 6 miles in 
circuit, is separated from Forelius peninsula by a good channel, 2 miles 
wide. About mid-channel, and nearly abreast of the east end of the island, 
there is a rock only a few feet above water The channel between the 
island and the rock is from 18 to 22 fathoms deep, and the bottom sandy. 

Bad Baj. — ^The Beagle anchored in this bay, after dark, in 8 fathoms, sandy 
bottom, and left it at 9 o'clock on the following morning. Of this place 
Captain Stokes remarks : — " At daylight we found that we had anchored 
in a small bay about half a mile off a shingle beach, on which, as well as on 
every part of the shore, a furious surf raged that effectually prevented our 

♦ Byron's Narrative, pp. 119 and 120. 
t Byron's Narrative, pp. 108 and 111. 



OHAF.ni.] FOBBLItJS PENINSULA. — POET OTWAY. 105 

landing to get chronometric observations. The mouth of this bay is north- 
east 27 miles from cape Tres Montes, which in clear weather m&j be 
seen. Like all the shores of the gulf of Penas it is completely open to the 
S.W.^ and to a heavy rolling sea." 

TBas Mowras oraar occupies a space of 16 by 12 miles to the west- 
ward of Bad bay, and includes Byron's group of the Marine islands ; one of 
which, the Sugar Loaf, has another equally remarkable mountain, 2,284 feet 
high, which was called by him the Dome of St. Paul.* 

At the north-west corner of the gulf is Hoppner sound, about 5 miles 
across, and from its S.W. end a deep inlet penetrates 7 miles to the south- 
west reach, to within 2 miles of the exterior coast, fromwhich it is separated 
by an isthmus of low thickly wooded land. The Beagle anchored in 
Hoppner sound, near the mouth of the inlet, but the southern channel^ 
though narrow, has plenty of water. On the south side of the Marine 
islands is HoUoway sound, leading to port Otway, an inlet extending 
o miles inland, in a south-west direction. 

Neuman inlet at the north-east comer of Tres Montes gulf, extends 
17 miles inland, where it terminates ; but it is unserviceable as the water is 
too deep for anchorage. It is the resort of large numbers of hair seals.f 

PORT OTWAT. — The entrance of port Otway is on the south side 
of HoUoway sound, 14 or 15 miles from cape Tres Montes, and may be 
readily known by its being the first opening after passing cape Stokes. 
Off the mouth are the Entrance islands, among which is the Logan rock, 
having a strong resemblance to the celebrated rock near the Lands End 
in Cornwall, the name of which it bears ; it is broad and flat at the top, 
decreasing at its base, which is very small, and connected with the rock 
upon which it seems to rest. Immediately within the entrance on the 

* It was'on one of the Marine islands that four mariners voluntarily remained on shore 
during Byron's perilous boat voyage, after the wreck of the Wager, — ^Byron*s Narrative, 
p. 85. 

f Notwithstanding Captain Stokes* conviction that Newman inlet was closed to the 
northward, it is still possible that there may be a connection between it and the gulf of 
San Eafieiel ; it is said that a boat went to the head of this inlet, but a boat passing along 
one side of the sound, or arm of the sea 2 or 3 miles wide, may easily overlook or not 
discern the opening of another arm which is partly if not entirely landlocked, to a distant 
observer's eye. Instances of this nature are too numerous to specify : one instance may 
be given, that of the Magdalen channel, leading from Magdalen strait to the Barbara 
channel, which after the first examination was esteemed to be a sound, closed at its 
sonthem entrance. Where high headlands in a hilly country overlap one another, it is 
almost impossible to distinguish all the openings without actually tracing the whole 
shore. — Captain Fitzroy, B.N. 

Since the above was written the Chilian Government sent an expedition to examine 
into the question, and decided that no passage existed through the peninsula.— B. C. M. 



106 CHANNELS TO aVhV OF PBSTAS. [ohap. ni. 

western shore there is a sandy beach, over which a rivnlet discharges 
itself into the bay ; and just off the beach anchorage may be had in 9 or 10 
fathoms, the most convenient berth the port affords4 

Nearly 2 miles within the entrance, the port opens into a large but 
deep inlet, with two arms extending to the S.W. and S.E., 3^ and 2 miles 
respectively. This inlet contains anchorage all over itj but the depth is 
generally inconveniently great, being from 20 to 30 fathoms ; an island 
also lies in the mouth, with a narrow passage about a cable broad on each 
side ; the eastern shore is shoal. 

As a place of refuge, or for any maritime purpose not requiring dry 
weather, few ports, on uninhabited coasts, can be better adapted than 
port Otway ; its situation making it very valuable for vessels bound either 
way. Jn a latitude where the changes of weather are so sudden it will 
not unfrequently happen that a vessel quitting the Messier channel in the 
morning finds herself caught in a north-westerly gale, or with a very 
threatening night coming on before she clears the gulf of Fenas ; in this 
case port Otway is a perfectly safe harbour, which may be made without 
fear in the heaviest weather, the shores of the main land, as well as of the 
islands, being steep-to. 

Strangers bound southward in the thick tempestuous weather which 
is the normal state in these regions, may reach port Otway when it would 
be very imprudent to run for the dead lee shore on the south side of the 
gulf; under these circumstances the vessel having run her distance without 
making the land, should shorten all sail, and steam slowly in for cape 
Tres Montes, against which she might almost rub her sides without 
danger, and having made the land, she has only to follow the coast 
round to the first opening which presents itself. Wood and water, it is 
almost needless to say, are plentiful here, as everywhere throughout these 
channels ; water indeed is far too plentiful, as [the navigator will find to 
his cost before he is clear of the channel. Sometimes 4 or 5 days of clear 
bright weather succeed each other, and at such times the scenery is 
magnificent, and the navigation delightful, but this is very rare, and the 
usual state is a steady down pour of rain, morning, noon, and night. 

Cape Irea Montea, in lat. 46° 59' S., long. 75*" 25' W,, is the southern 
extremity of the peninsula of the same name. It is a bold and remarkable 
headland, rising from the sea to the height of 2,000 feet, free from all 
outlying dangers, and is said to be one of the safest and easiest of landfalls, 
even in blowing weather and on a lee shore ; there is little or no current, 
and plenty of drift to leeward if darkness should prevent port Otway 
being reached. Off the cape, between cape Tres Montes and cape Stokes, 



I 



] 



• See Plan of Port Otway, No. 1,817 ; scale, m = l-o inch. 



CHAP.ra.] POUT OTWAT.— CONE INLET. 107 

there is a singular high rock, which from the south-east looks like a 
brlgantine under sail. The rocks off cape Stokes are low, but they do not 
extend far. 

Cape Baper, 13 miles to the north-west, in lat. 46^ 49' S,^ has rocks and 
breakers extending from it 1^ miles to seaward. 

From cape Tres Montes, along the coast to cape Gallegos, there is no 
danger outside 2 miles from the coaat. The land is high, from 2,000 to 
4,000 feet, and the water deep. 

Ban Andres Bay. — Cape Gallegos is a bold promontory, barren to 
seaward, and rising abruptly from the water, and round it lies San Andres 
bay ; it contains no good place for large ships, but a secure anchorage for 
small vessels in Christmas cove, which is not half a mile across, but 
I sheltered from all winds except those from the northward. Though 

1 apparently much exposed to this quarter, the danger from such winds is 

I more apparent than real, as they do not become very strong till they are 

I some points to the westward of north, and much sea would not be raised 

till then. The Beagle passed some days there in smooth water, while it 
was blowing a hard gale from the westward outside.^ 

Oon« Inlet, another deep cove, a mile to the southward of Christmas 
ooTe, stretches in shore to the foot of a remarkable cone, 1,800 feet high. 
It is quite sheltered, and not a bad stopping place for a steamer inside the 
islet in its entrance with her stern &st to the shore $ but there is no room 
to swing for a sailing vessel, it is so narrow as to be difficult of access, and 
still more difficult to quit. Even with a north-west wind no swell pene- 
trates the interior of the inlet ; and there is a natural dock at the inner 
port, on the north-east side. On the northern side of San Andres bay, 
at the head of a deep bight, there is a large basin, which is well called 
Useless cove, being unfit for any kind of craft. 

Cape Pringle forms the north side of San Andres bay, and between it 
and Rescue point, 18 miles to the northward, the land is considerably 
lessened In elevation ; there may be anchorage in Stewart bay, and Cliff 
cove seemed to be a promising little place, but neither was entered. 

»ort San ■steTan* 20 miles N.N.E. from cape Pringle, has very good 
wnohorage in 10 fathoms water, under Bescne point. Fresh water may 
be obtained easily in the stream at the head of the inlet, or from runs 
near the anchorage. Dark hill, 2,150 feet above tho sea^ is an excellent 
mark for this port ; there is no hidden danger, provided the rocks at the 
point have a fair berth given to them of a cable. A ship should anchor 
close to the west shore, under shelter of a reef off Rescue point. 



* See Plan of San Andres bay, No. 1,207 ; scale, m « 1*0 inch, and Admiralty Chart, 
South America, West Coast, Sheet III, No. 1,826. 



108 CHANNELS TO GULF OP PESTAS. [chap. m. 

Heiiyer mooks are a cluster of outlying dangers, scarcely above water, 
on which the sea breaks, lying N. by W. f W. from Rescue point, and 
6 miles from the nearest land, Duende island. 

Cape Tajtao bears N. by W. 25 miles from port San Estevan, the 
intervening coast being broken and rugged. Doubtless there is anchorage 
under the lee of Usborne islands, or behind mount Alexander, or within 
Cornish opening, or Burns inlet ; but the BeagWs officers did not explore 
them. Cape Taytao is one of the most remarkable promontories on this 
coast ; it makes like a large island, pointed at the summit, nearly 3,000 
feet in height, and rugged, barren, and steep ; several rocks above water 
lie around it, but all within a mile of the shore. 

Anna Vink Bay. — To the eastward, round cape Taytao, is Anna Fink 
bay, within a cove of which one of Lord Ajtison's squadrons, the Anna Pink^ 
employed as a victualler, took refuge from westerly gales ; she anchored 
under Tuche-mo, but drove thence across the bay, and after slipping or 
cutting her cables brought up in port Refuge, in the south-east part of 
the bay, where she lay some time in security refitting.* 

On Yuche-mo island, 450 feet high, we found the remains of alai^ hut and 
a number of goats, several of which were shot by the officers of the Beagle. 
Probably the Anna Fink did not in the first instance go nearenough to Yuche- 
mo, for there is good holding ground in 15 or 20 fathoms on its east side, 
with Penguin islet bearing North, and the highest part of Yuche-mo, S. W, 

Canaveral Cove, on the south side of entrance of Port Refuge, though 
small, is very convenient for refitting or for executing any repairs. 

Patch cove, to the south-west of Canaveral cove, is so small as to be 
unfit for vessels of any size exceeding 200 tons. 

About 6 miles N.E. of Yuche-mo, are the Inchin or San Fernando 
Elands, and next to the northward, are the Tenquehuen, Menchuan, and 
Puyo islands, among which no doubt there are many good anchorages, and 
abundance of fresh water, wood, wild herbs, and fish easily found on these 
coasts. The western extremity of Menchuan island is low, and has several 
rocks near it, therefore a good berth should be allowed in passing. 

CBOiroB jflLSCBiPB&AOO. — Wickham or PuUuche inlet separates the 
peninsula of Taytao from the Chonos archipelago, which consists of a large 
number of barren, rugged, and lofty islands rising to an elevation of 2,000 
to 4,000 feet above the sea. The interior sounds behind these islands have 
not been surveyed, but they are supposed to contain harbours as numerous 
as the islands. The inner coast of Skyring, Clements, Garrido, and Iquiliac 
islands ai*e like the outer, high, rugged, and barren, ranging to about 3,000 
feet above the sea. 



* See Plan of Anna Pink bay, No. 1,298. 



CHAP.m.] CHONOS AECHIPELAGO. — ^POET HELINKA. 109 

The entrance into the Chonos archipelago by Darwin channel is per- 
fectlj safe for the lai'gest ships, and when inside the navigation is quite 
simple. 

Darwin channel is considered the best passage, for not onlj is it less 
tortuous than the others, but it has a good anchorage at each end, Vallenar 
road outside, and port Lagunas or Espagnol inside. Neither from out or 
inside can the channel be mistaken ; from outside no great error can be 
made in the distance from Tres Montes, and as the land is closed Vallenar 
and Anates islands will be distinguished, and the entrance itself shows clear 
and bold, with high rockj sides, but without rocks or islets. 

The coast trends in an E.N.E. direction for 6 miles, whence the channel 
turns a little to the northward ; a white rockj islet standing well out in the 
channel will then be seen, and must be left on the starboard hand, and as 
it is passed a deep indentation with several islets in it leading north will 
be opened. This must be passed, and the coast will now trend about East, 
until another large island is passed, and then the principal channel north- 
ward will be opened, the distance from the entrance being about 29 miles. 
Groing out keep the port shore on board till the channel seems trending 
to the S.W., when cross to the starboard or north shore, and the before- 
mentioned white islet will show up nearly in mid-channeL Leaving this 
on the port hand, and keeping straight on, the swell from the sea will 
soon be felt, and the sea itself shortly afterwards opened. 

Inside, proceeding northward^ there are several anchorages known to 
the sealers and whalers, who frequently run in for shelter ; the whole 
space, however, is so different from what it is marked on the chart, and 
the islands so numerous, that though there would be little danger of losing 
the way altogether, it is impossible to give such descriptions as would 
guide to the principal anchorages. The mean course up and down is 
N. by W., and S. by E., but it cannot be kept altogether. We found that all 
the islands on the west side of the gulf are too &r west, and many of 
those marked out of place ; also that the Ninualac channel, at the inner 
entrance, is about 10 miles too far north. 

We anchored in three places besides port Melinka, which is on the S.E. 
side of the North Guayteca island, and runs up close to point Low. 

9met KeUiikA (see sketch) is so called by the Chilian Government, but 
Puerto Arena by the sealers. There is a small establishment for sealing 
and cutting railway sleepers in this port. The entrance is between the 
south-east point of the Guayteca and a round island on a course of about 
South until a few houses on the north side of the bay open, when haul up 
for them and anchor in 15 to 7 fathoms, stony bottom, with Guayteca 
point N.E. by E. We were told the holding ground was better in 
20 fathoms further out, but did not try it. This port is completely 



110 OHAKNELS TO GULI* 07 FENAS. [oHAP.m. 

sheltered^ atid seemed quite Bftfe/ We found there a cove containing 
many Indian remainB. The three anchorages south of Melinka were 
called bj our pilot Ballena (whale) harbour^ port Nevada, and Lagunas* 

Port Satiena is a good anchorage in one of the islands about 12 miles 
south-east of Melinka. 

»drt Vevada is a well-sheltered little place for a small ship, and perhaps 
ftirther out in deeper water a large ship would find room. 

Frenob Harbour and Puerto Amertoano are both said to be good, and 
of port Harchj there is a Chilian plan. 

Port aagqnag is also good, but rather small. 



« 


I :^ D E X. 






Pftg6 




Fac« 


Adyentore bridge - 


• n 


Bouchage bay 


- 42 


Aid basin - - . 


. 96 


Bonmard bay 


- 42 


Aldanate inlet • 


- 108 


Bradbury islet 


- 78 


Alert bank . * • . 


- 94 


Breaksea island 


- 100 


AJert rocks • - • . 


- 77 


Broad reach 


« 37 


Anates islands 


- 109 


Borgoyne bay 


- 77 


1 Andrew sound 


- 86 


Burney moont 


- 79 


1 Andrew's bay - - * 


» 48 


Butler bay - 


- 58 


Angosto port 


- 02 


Bynoe islands 


- 100 


Anna Fink bay - •• 


- 108 


Byron island 


- 94 


Antoine bay 


- 77 


Byron point 


- 67 


Arauco patch - 


- 38 






Aranz bay - - • . 


- 53 


Oanayeral coye 


- 108 


Arcebay - - - . 


• 67 


Canning islets 


. 86 


Axmingen islands - 


- 91 


Oanoe uilet - 


- 68 


Asses Ears - - . . 


- 11 


Carlos 111. island - 


. 51 


Aitr^ rock 


. 67 


Catalina island 


«- 81 


Ayautau islands 


- 93 


Catalina bay 


- 83 


Aymond mount - - . • 


- 11 


Catherine point 


6 






Cedar point - 


- 89 


Bad bay - . • 


- 104 


Centre mount 


- 38 


Ballenas port 


- 93 


Ceres island 


- 80 


Ballenaport 


" 110 


Chance bay 


- 63 


Babara port - • 


- 100 


Charles islands 


- 60 


Barcellobay - • 


- 66 


Charles cape 


" 83 


Bare rocks - - . . 


. 88 


Cheape channel 


- 102 


Barnacle reef 


- 15 


Choiseul bay 


- 52 


1 Barometer - - . i 


. 32 


Chonos archipelago 


- 108 


Barranca bank - - < 


• 13 


Christmas coye 


- 107 


Batchelorbay 


- 60 


Churruca port - « 


- 68 


t Batchelor riyer 


- 60 


Cirugano island 


- 103 


Baxa point - - « . 


- 12 


Cliffeoye - - . 


- 107 


Bedwell island 


- 78 


Climatic diseases - 


•> 85 


Bessel rock - - - . 


- 81 


Clio islet - 


- 89 


Black riyer - - - . 


- 104 


Cloo^ island 


• 87 


Blanco cape 


3 


Qoyne reef 


• 81 


Boqneron cape 


- 22 


Columbine coye 


- 81 


BougainyiUe bay - 


- 42 


Conoepcion channel 


- 84 


Boxer spit •>«•.. 


• 47 


Condesa bay - > 


■ . - 69 


Boyle rock - - • . 


. 91 


Cone inlet 


- 107 


Boca De Canales - 


- 101 


Connor coye 


- 91 


Bonetbay - - - . 


- 61 


Cordes bay 


- 48 


Boijabay - - - • 


64 


Cordoya peninsula - 


- 65 



112 



DTDEX. 











Page 










Page 


Cordova channel 


- 


- 


m 


64 


Fairweaiher cape 


- 


- 


- 


4 


Cortado cape 


- 


- 


- 


72 


Fallas channel 


. 


- 


. 


100 


Crooked rock 


- 


- 


m 


65 


Famine port 


- 


- 


3S 


1, 40 


CorrientcB cape 


- 


- 


- 


3 


Fatal bay - 


- 


- 


- 


92 


Coyentry cape 


- 


- 


- 


48 


Felix point 


• 


• 


. 


71 


Cross island 


m 


- 


- 


48 


First narrows 


. 


• 


. 


12 


Crbsstide cape 


- 


- 


- 


52 


Five-fathom patch 


m 


• 


- 


69 


Caevas cjipe 


- 


- 


• 


70 


Flamstead cape 


- 


- 


a 


82 


Cutter rock 


- 


- 


- 


79 


Flat rock - 


m 


. 


. 


69 












Floresbay - 


- 


- 


- 


67 


Darby coTe 


- 


- 


- 


n 


Fogs, eastern part of strait - 


• 


36 


Dark-hill - 


- 


- 


- 


107 


Forelins peninsula 


- 


•m 


- 


104 


Darwin channel 


• 


- 


- 


109 


Fortescue bay 


- 


. 


mm 


48 


David sonnd 


- 


- 


■• 


52 


Fortune bay 


- 


•■ 


- 


79 


Dead-tree island 


- 


- 


* 


103 


Francis islets 


. 


." 


- 


78 


Deep harbour 


- 


- 


- 


77 


French harbour 


. 


- 


m 


110 


De Gennes river 


- 


- 


m 


43 


Freshwater bay 


. 


. 


- 


37 


Diamond rock 


- 


to 


m 


67 


Freydnet rock 


- 


» 


•• 


70 


Diana peak 


- 


- 


- 


97 


Frowardcape 


- 


- 


- 


44 


Dmero mount 


- 


- 


- 


95 


« ^, variation 


/71 


- 


37 


Directions, Henry port 


- 


- 


98 


• 










Direction hills 


- 


• 


m 


11 


Gkige inlet - 


- 


- 


- 


86 


Direction islets 


- 


- 


m 


91 


Gallant port 


- 


- 


- 


49 


Directions, Sandy point, eastward 


" 


28 


Gallegos liver 


- 


- ' 


- 


4 


Directions for Freshwater bay 


- 


38 


Gkillegos c«pe 


- 


- 


- 


107 


Dixon hill - 


- 


- 


- 


29 


Gap peak - 


- 


- 


- 


16 


Dixon cove - 


- 


- 


m 


81 


General remarks 


- 


m 


- 


1,75 


Dolphin island 
Double peak 


_ 


_ 


^ 


67 


Tir^-* m^mu. 




37 


. 


. 


• 


16 


Gknte Grande bay 


T «DV J 


rmtm « 


m 


Of 

22 


Dundee rock 


- 


- 


- 


100 


Grente point - 


- 


- 


— 


22 


Dungeness 


- 


- 




6-26 


Glacier bay - 


- 


- 


- 


60 


Dyer cape - 


- 


- 


- 


100 


Glacier sound 


- 


- 


- 


69 


Pyneley bay 


- 


- 


- 


99 


Glascott point 


- 


- 


- 


44 


Dynevor sound 


- 


- 


- 


62 


Goods bay - 


- 


- 


- 


77 












Gorgon reef - 


- 


- 


- 


88 


Eagle bay - 


- 


- 


• 


41 


Grant point - 


•» 


- 


- 


59 


Echenique point 


- 


« 


- 


70 


Gracia cape - 


- 


• 


- 


82 


Eclipse island 


- 


- 


• 


83 


Gracia point 


- 




- 


17 


Eden harbour 


-• 


- 


- 


88 


Grappler port 


- 


- 


- 


87 


Elizabeth island 


- 


- 


m . 


18 


Gray channel 


- 


- 


- 


78 


Elizabeth bay 


- 


- 


m 


49 


Gray harbour 


- 


• 


•• 


90 


El. Morion - 


-• 


a* 


• 


54 


Green islands 


- 


- 


- 


76 


English narrows 


-• 


m 


88^89 


Gregory cape 


- 


- 


- 


14 


Entrance Islands 


- 


- 


* 


105 


Gregory shoulder 


- 


- 


- 


30 


Espiritu Santo cape 


- 


- 


8 


Gregory bay 


- 


- 


- 


15 


Evans group 


- 


- 


• 


77 


Guaineco islands 


m 


- 


- 


94 


Expectation bay 


m 


■• 


- 


85 


Guard bay - 


- 


- 


- 


84 


Eyre sonnd 


- 


- 


- 


87 


Guayteca point 


- 


- 


- 


109 


— 










Guia narrows 


- 


- 


- 


83 


I'airway islets 


- 


- 


•• 


76 


Guirior bay - 


- 


m 


- 


57 




- 


- 


- 


77 


Gun bay 


- 


- 


- 


42 



Half-port bay 
Halfnray shoal 
Hall coye - 
Halt bay - 
Hamper bay 
Haimaqt bay 
Harchy port 
Hartwell bay 
HaTannah point 
Hawk cliff - 
Hazard isles 
Hecate rock- 
Hellyer rocks 
Henry port - 
Holland cape 
Holloway sound 
Hoppner sound 
Hose Harbour 
Hoskyn ooye 
Hoskyn islet 
Hoy point - 
Hngh head - 
Hull islets - 

Icy sound - 
Ignaciobay- 
Indian inlet - 

Indian bay - 
Indian reach - 
Inlet bay - 
Inocentes island 
Inocentes channel 
Island harbour 
Island bay - 
Isthmus bay 

James island 
Jerome channel 
Jesuit sound 

Kelly harbour 
Kitt island - 

Lobouchere rock 
Ladder hill - 
Ijagunasport 
Xakawana cove 
Xangarabay 
Ia Place group 
l^redobay - 
26634. 



INDEX. 






' 


LIS 


Page 


- 






< 


Page 


63 


Last harbour 


- 


- 


- 


52 


16 


Lee bay 


- 


- 


- 


22 


92 


Level bay - 


• 


* 


- 


88 


90 


liberta bay - 


- 


• 


- 


90 


80 


Lion bay 


• 


- 


- 


91 


61 


Logan rock - 


- 


- 


- 


105 


110 


Lomasbay - 


- 


- 


- 


9 


79 


Loney islet - 


- 


- 


- 


90 


61 


Long reach - 


- 


- 


• 


56 


31 


Long island - 


- 


•• 


- 


79 


101 


Los Evangelistas 


- 


- 


- 


74 


83 


Lucas cove - 


- 


- 


- 


89 


108 


Lucky ledge 


- 


- 


- 


51 


97 


Lynch rock - 


- 


- 


- 


77 


47 












105 


Machado cape 


- 


m 


- 


101 


105 


Madre islands 


• 


• 


- 


97 


' 78 


Madre island 


• 


• 


- 


84 


90 


Malacca coye 


- 


. 


- 


88 


79 


Mallet bay - 


- 


- 


- 


80 


63 


Manning bay 


- 


a* 


- 


65 


77 


Marine islands 


- 


- 


- 


105 


77 


Marion coye 


- 


- 


- 


61 




Mass bay - 


- 


- 


- 


53 


69 


Mayne channel 


itf 


- 


- 


78 


102 


Mayne harbour 


- 


- 


- 


83 


63 


Medal bay - 


-« 


- 


■• 


64 


96 


Meluikaport 


- 


- 


- 


109 


42 


Menohuan island 


- 


•• 


- 


108 


88 


Mercy head 


- 


- 


- 


72 


80 


Mercy port - 


- 


- 


- 


72 


84 


Messier channel 


• • 


- 


- 


90 


87 


Meteoro. table, Qoyemor of Sandy pt 


34 


91 


H 1867 


- 


- 


34 


80 


Mid-channel island 


- 


- 


- 


89 


79 


Middle ground 


- 


- 


- 


19 




Middle island 


- 


- 


- 


91 


51 


Middle point 


- 


- 


- 


61 


53 


Middleton or Warborough 


cape 


- 


51 


101 


Miller island 


- 


* 


- 


98 




Miserioordia point 


- 


- 


- 


73 


102 


Molyneux sound 


- 


- 


- 


85 


89 


Monday cape 


m 


- 


- 


63 




Monmouth island 


- 


- 


- 


52 


79 


Montague bay 


- 


- 


- 


99 


84 


Monte Video 


- 


- 


W 


3 


110 


Moss islet - 


- 


- 


- 


70 


88 


Mussel bay - 


- 


- 


- 


51 


57 


Mussel island 


- 


- 


- 


48 


81 












22 


Narrow bank 


* 


m 


- 


n 



114 



II^DEX. 



■ 




Page 






Page 


Kash bay - 


- 


- 5^ 


Ptttya Parda cote 


- 


• 6b 


Nassau anchorage 


M « 


- 68 


Plumper anchorage 


- 


a 11 


Nassau rock - 


- 


. e 


Pollard cove 


- • 


' 61 


Nassau channel 


- 


;. 49 


Pdtpesse cape 


m mm 


- l9 


Nassau island 


- 


u 43 


Postidas bay 


- 


- b1 


Natives 


- 


u 46 


Possession bay 


- 


- 10 


N^esham bay 


- 


^ 99 


Poi^session cape 


- 


- 10 


NfegTo cape - 


- 


^ SS 


Possession mount 


- 


» Sd 


Newmah inlet 


- 


- 105 


Pounds island 


- 


^ 8^ 


Nfevada port 


- 


- 110 


Providence cape 


- 


- 66 


New channel 


- 


^ 18 


Puerto Americano 


- 


- 110 


Nodalles islets 


«■ Wf 


- 71 


Puerto Arena 


- 


^ 109 


North bay - 


- 


- "11 


Puerto Bumo 


- 


- 83 


North Guayteca island 


- 109 


Pnnta Arena 


- 


- 23 


Nose peak - 


m ■■ 


- 45 


Purcell island 


- 


- 104 


Notch cape - 


- 


- • 58 


Primero cape 


- 


- 98 


Nunez head - 


- 


- 12 


Pringle cape 


- 


- 107 








Pylades bay - 


- 


- » 


Cake bay 


. _ 


- 78 








OazT harbour 


^ ^ 


- 2d 


Quartennaster island 


' BS 


Observation mount 


^ ^ 


^ 74 


Qu^n Adelaide archipelago 


^ 66 


Open bay - 


a 


- 86 


Qtifeen channel 


- 


- 17 


Orange bank 


- 


- 27 


QtiOd cape - 


■" ~ 


" 58 


Orange cape 


- 


- 11 


Baper cape - 


_ 


- 107 


Orlebar mount 


- 


- 92 


Refuge port - 


- 


- i08 


Ortiz islets - 


- 


- 54 


Benouard island 


. 


- 11 


Osomo bay - 


W «• 


- 56 


Bescue point 


V m 


- i07 


Otter bay - 


- 


- !rg 


Betreat bay - 


. 


- 11 


Otway port - 


- 


- 105 


Bichard point 


. 


- 83 


Otway water 


M tm 


- 52 


Bingdove islet 


- 


- 80 








Bobert point 


. 


- ^0 


Parker bay - 


mm w 


- 73 


Bocky bight 


. 


- 88 


Parker cape - 


- 


- 73 


Bocky inlet - 


. 


- 62 


Passage islet 


- 


- 63 


Bound island 


•• •• 


- 66 


Passage point 


- 


- 49 


Bowlat narrows 


^ „ 


^ Si 


Paich cove - 


- 


- 108 


Boyalroad - 


. m 


• 19 


Pecket harbour 


•■ m 


- 20 


Bupert island 


. 


49 


Pecket point 


- 


^ 21 


* 
Bupert rocks 


. 


- 61 


Peel inlet - 


- 


- 82 








Pelican passage 


- 


- 18 


Saint Anna island 


^ » 


. 6S 


Penas gulf, supplies, &c. 


- 96 


Saint Ann's peak 


- 


. 69 


Penguin islet 


- 


- 108 


Saini Isidro * 


- 


- 16 


Percival reef 


- 


- e*r 


Saint Jago bay 


- 


- 15 


Philip bay - 


- 


- 16 


Saint Joseph bay 


- 


- 72 


Phillip cape - 


- 


- 69 


Saint Mary point 


- 


- 3* 


Phipp's island 


- 


- 92 


Saint Vicent cape 


- 


17,22 


Piazza island 


- 


- 82 


San Andres bay - 


- 


- 107 


Picton opening 


- 


- 99 


San Brigida point 


- 


- 43 


Pillar cape - 


** ^ 


- 73 


San Estevan gulf 


- 


- 103 


Pitcher island 


** ^ 


- 20 


San Estevan port 


<■ 


- 107 


Plaid island 


- 


20 


San Felipe mount 


- 


- 38 



IKDEZ. 



115 



Sad Isidro cape 
San Matao cape 
S^ Miguel port 
San Nicholas bay - 
San Quentin sound - 
San Tadeo river 
Santa Anna point - 
Santa Innes island - 
Santa Lucia cape - 
Santa Magdalena island 
Santa Marta island - 
Sanchez island 
Sapdybay - - - 

Sandy point road 
Santiago cape 
Sarmiento bank 
Saimiento channel - 
Satellite patch 
Sarumarez island 
Schooner anchorage 
Schooner cove 
Seal rocks - - - 

Sea-reach - - - 

— ^ south coast 

Seasons, eastern part of strait 

Second narrows 

Sedger river 

Shark creek 

Shelter island 

Shingle road 

Shoal haven 

ShoUbay - 

Silvester point 

Sir John Narborough islets - 

Skyring water 



SmaU-craft bight 

Smelt 

Smyth channel 

Snow sound 

Snowy channel 

Snug bay - - - 

Spencer island 

Spiteful anchorage - 

Squalls, eastern part of Btndt 

Staines peninsula 

Stewart bay 

Stokes cape 

Stonewall anchorage 

Stragglers rock 

Summer islands 



Page 

- 41 

- S2 

- 4d 

- 43 

. iosi 

- 103 

- 38 

- 62 

- 97 

- '21 
21 

- 43 

- 86 
. 23 

- 97 

- 8,S7 

- 82 

- 13 

- 82 

- 30 

- 83 
. 98 

- 65 

- 70 
34,35 

- 16 

- 39 

7 

- 61 

- 81 

- 19 

- 69 

- 17 

- 74 

- 72 

- 52 

- 86 

- 40 

- 76 
58,63 

- 59 

- 47 
-6,8 

9 

- 86 

82 

59, 107 

- 107 

- 10 

- 69 

- 78 



Supplies - - - 

Susannah cove 

Sutlqhill - 

Swallow bay 

Swan bay - - - 

Sweepstakes foreland 

Tainar cape - i^ 

Tamar island 

Tamar port ... 

Tandy bay 

Tandy point 

Tarn bay - . - 

Taytao cape 

Thorox cape 

Three-peaks cape - 

Thunder, eastern part of strait 

Tides 25, 38, 50, 63, 68, 74, 88, 

Tides, Guia narrows 

Tilly bay - 

Tom bay - - - 

Tres Montes cape 

gulf - 

Tribune bank 
Trinidad channel - 

gulf 

Triton bank 
Trivett point 
Tuesday bay 

cove 

Truzillo bay 

Ulloa peninsula 
Unfit bay . - - 
Upright cape 
■ port 
Usbome islands 
Useless bay 
cove 

Valentine harbour - 
Yallenar road 
Valle point 
Vancouver island - 
Variation, 1871 - - • 

Victoria cape 
Victory cape 

piiss 

Villena cote 
Virgins cape 



Page 
2S, 59, 75 

- 16 

- 29 
. 58 

- 55 

- 15 

. 67 

•* C8 

- 67 

- 78 
" 10 
•* 95 

- 108 

- 17 

- 97 

- '36 
89,93,98 

- 84 

- 52 

- 85 

- 106 

- 105 

- 14 

- 98 

- 99 

- 13 

- 80 

- 71 

- 72 

- 71 

- 52 

- 84 

- 64 
. 64 

- 108 

- 45 

- 107 

- 71 

- 109 

- 15 

- 82 

- 75 

- 74 

- 74 

- 80 

- 57 

6 



116 



Virgin reef 
Voces bay - 

Wager island 
Walker bay 
_ shoal 
Wallis shoal 
Waterfall bay 
Weather, &c., Tarn bay 
Westminster hall - 
Whale point 
— sound 
White bay 
White-kelp core 
Whitsand bay 
Wickham inlet 



INDEX. 






Page 






Page 


5 


Wide channel . - 


. 


85,87 


41 


Wigwam island 


- 


- 49 




WiUiam bay 


- 


- 81 


94 


Williwaws 


- 


- 87 


84 


Windward bay 


- 


- 99 


21 


Winds, ^c. 


- 


. 94 


10-30 




itrait 


- 81 




91 


Woods bay - 


- 


- 47 


95 








74 


Xaoltegoa gulf 


- 


- 65 


51 


Xa^er island 


m 


- 102 


52 








58 


York road - 


m 


- 50 


91 


Yache-mo island - 


- 


- 108 


20 








108 


Zealous anchorage - 


_ 


7 



LONDON: 

Printed by Geobge £. Etbb and William Spottiswoode, 

Printers to the Queen's most Excellent Majesty. 

Por Her M^jesty*s Stationery Office. 

[2476.— 500.— 6/71.] 



^ 

V 



£ ^ 



AN •?" 194S